There are some reviews that seem to say this could be used on Harbor Freight’s open-frame inverter-generator. I wonder if that means they can be paralleled?
Yup if you swap the inverter out you then should be able to run in paralell.
With this stuff you could DIY one for half the cost. You would need the rear engine casing cover and stator housing cover though.
Actually you may not need the housing. Just need to make a plate that bolts to the back of the engine to hold the stator center and in place is all. One could then Im sure make a housing guard to keep fingers away from the spinning parts. I see where 3D printing could come to the rescue.
Man look what you have done!! Now I have another DIY project I have to do now. lol
Thinking about this further the Stator is on the outside not inside and I think it is directional as those three wires I think are for positioning like a crank shaft / cam shaft sensor. I cant think of any other reason those extra wires are there and that lead plugs into a socket on the Inverter side.
Also studying the picture it does look like that rotor has a tapered socket I dont think it is a straight shaft. However there are taper adapter on market.
So to make an off the shelf engine work, you will need the housing or an alternative. Could 3D print and then use it as a master to create a mold to poor your own aluminum parts. I just happen to have a high end 3D scanner that can create an exact digital copy of the original engine back cover and housing. I could then 3D print them to create the masters for creating the mold.
The stepper motor output from the Inverter “control modual” is for the engine carburetor speed controlling.
The Inverter is going to need an RPM signal input. And a power input. The separate sub-coil is supping one, or both of these.
The DC coil is for the USB output port power.
With separate coils for starting battery charging.
Separate coil for ignition signal and ignition power.
Allowing the engine to be started and ran without main main generating outputs.
Note that the 1st diagram has two Wye sets of Main coils. This is for an Inverter made split phase 240VAC capable output.
the 2nd diagram only has one main charging coil for an Inverter made only 120VAC output.
S.U.
You probably don’t -need- the stepper for the carb control hooked up, but for efficiency it would be worth looking at your stepper to see what model it is to get a ballpark idea of what is being used.
I did not know you had the 3d scanner adds note for beach trip
If you have a cnc router or mill, you just need a rough casting. Then finish it with the mill.
Tapa seems to make them for a number of sizes of generators which makes it more interesting for converting a smaller generator or using an induction motor, type of thing.
Yeah I bought an EinStar Scanner plus a 2500 dollar PC to run it. Its for another company I plan to develop after Im done with this last stage of development for the gasifier company.
Yeah Id like to use all off the shelf parts and engines for a build. So yeah the Stepper carb wont be an option unless you can buy all that too. But I wouldnt; Id just get rid of that complexity do it manually with the thottle setting on the engine as those have a lever throtle control. The hard part is going to make a DIY friendly housing to fit the stater. Or reversing this somehow but with that tapered socket that might not be possible.
I might have to tear apart that 8750 I have and see what I can do to make something.
OH that is sweet. Does it work well? The last 3d scan I got was probably accurate but the parts didn’t line up when I imported it into a cad program. It was similar to trying to convert a pixel image to a vector based drawing program. Just a lot of clean up to get something usable. You kind of used it as a pattern to redraw the image. But that was a long long time ago.
I would document the stepper ie grab numbers off it and such. Just in case, you or someone else might want it later. I don’t know how it is put together. I haven’t really looked at the generators at all in any detail.
The taper is probably some standard metric, but you have to measure it.
The stepper set up is built into the inverter part. You just plug that cable in like Steve U is saying. Then you plug the stepper / throttle control into the inverter as well. So the controller is already pre built into the inverter.
Yes its very accurate! You do however have to adjust the plane orientation when you import the mesh into CAD. I then convert it to a solid and can edit the part. Then once done I then convert back to an STL mesh file. I was planning to scan my entire 68 K-20 to make an RC replica of it. lol
Yeah I know but why source it? When you can just the buy whats supposed to go on it or just use the manual controller.
If you want to run in eco mode just throttle it down with the manual control. I dont want that electronic controller its just something to break. I want to get rid of that part of it. Eco mode is worthless with a gasifier.
Yeah dont forget this is an inverter generator. RPM dont matter anymore. Set it at the power level you need and forget it.
With the manual set up you can get the generator running at a higher RPM to better absorb the load when running on wood gas. It may also be more responsive to loads as well. You are pretty restricted with the stepper control and there is some lag.
I’ve been wondering about generator fuel consumption, and the difference between inverter and conventional generators. Either my choice of search terms is terrible, or Google isn’t what it used to be, or there isn’t much data out there. Many of the manufacturers list fuel use at 25% output power, which is not that interesting for battery charging.
I came across this webpage, which is old, but at least has some data. Scroll all the way down for a spreadsheet with all the tested generators included. It may partly explain why the inverter generators are spec’d at one quarter power.
KentP. I think you are referring to ChrisOlsen’s post #26 where finally a Honda 3000 inverter-generator got added to the mix, yes?
Read also bob g’s reply on the follow up post #27 about specialized refined DIY water cooled diesel engine generator systems.
The comparisons here on this fieldlines topic are too narrow of pursuits only about using the least bought out taxed spec grade of fuels not factoring in at all other, very real concerns.
Size and weight. Those water cooled diesel are heavy, heavy. Movable on big wheels if the shaking doesn’t destroy the framework.
Availability and cost of repair parts. Even lubricant costs.
Noise. Inverters-generators even opened frame are quieter as mostly running at lower rpms. Lowered rpm’s means they are pumping less cooling air versus 3600 rpm air-cooled. Generating less internal wear too.
If you want the least used fuel by the quantities or weights measurements then of course diesel fueled. Here Washington State pump diesel carries an added full 30% higher price due to punishing carbons taxes. So a gasoline inverter-generator can beat the diesel in actual costs to buy, maintain, and especially to buy out, fuel.
If you want the cleanest burning with the very least maintenance’s and easiest overall operating then that would be a propane fueled inverter-generator.
Here Washington State you can buy propane by the gallon for at least 30% less than pump gasoline. Less Btu’s per gallon, yes. Less power in the same sized generator, yes.
But what will be the overall costs for a full years operation, for the kW/hrs you will need?
I am betting with my pocket book a larger propane fueled inverter-generator will be best overall. This will already have the 240 VAC.
And if ever the real needs-must drives in your little corner of the world these are the ones easiest to convert to charcoal gas or woodgas.
Do not let idealizers hooked on one factor distract you from the overall realities you will have to live with.
I fell down that engine rabbit hole for a few years. Still got the hopper; water cooled, Chinese ‘ChangFa’ diesel engine to remind myself.
Regards
Steve unruh
Yeah, there is that to consider. I maybe I should keep my wallet in my pocket, be content, get the Lister-Petter and old Onan running and wired, and put some solar panels in the sun where they can do some good. Easier to window shop when it’s raining
The inverter generators work best when you aren’t maxing it out, because they can slow down the engine to reduce fuel usage. At full power, there isn’t a fuel consumption savings. Most of the newer ones probably have smoother waveforms for output and less variation in the frequency but for battery charging, it probably doesn’t matter that much. However a newer engine may consume less fuel.
Your best bet dollarwise is probably solar panels. Then you can keep your old generators for back-up when there is an issue with the sun or a larger then normal load. Costwise per kilowatt any generator isn’t going to beat solar. Once you calculate in the cost of wear and tear on the generator im not even sure chargas beats it.
I just ordered the stator and rotar assemblies. Planning on a DIY scratch build, I have not decided if Im going to go with a single cylinder or V Twin. Id like to go for a V Twin for the added power when wood fueling. Plus oil system for longevity.
Anyways Ill more than like create a new thread when I get there. We just got an order that should free up some finances for this project.
