The double flute charcoal gasifer

Kevin I think they sell a more specific ceramic wool rigidizer, I bought some called Mr Volcano. It’s best to also coat the wool with refractory cement and/or some 100HT refractory.

100HT is infrared reflective so it’s even better than just rockwool or ceramic wool.


Cody - I think you and I are reading some of the same web pages. Good stuff to be found poking around DIY forge websites and videos

There are definitely better rigidizers than water glass but it’s an easy to source option. I like water glass as a thinly disbursed binder for cast perlite/vermiculite hard insulation. That wouldn’t be a good material to surround the heart of a gasifier directly but it’s a nice/cheap/light bulk insulation that can handle second layer type temperatures.

My head design for a stationary gasifier is HT100 faced fire brick surrounded by said perlite/water glass cast insulation, all inside a metal enclosure. Should be skin safe heat on the outside and hot as heck on the inside.


OK thanks cody- i may try some 100 HT refactory–How thick could it be put on a ceramic fire tube with out falling off–or maybe some mr vocano first to ridgenize the wool- then how thick will the 100TH refractory stay on- or do it need be put on in coats.? THANKS guys on the replies.

Summer has ended, and fall has arrived. It looks like we are not going to get our Indian summer this fall. Usually we have a dry spell with warm days and cooler nights. But this year it has turned into rain, rain, rain. So I am welding just inside the opening of the garage door to stay dry. On Marcus’s and Steve’s West side of the mountains it is getting really wet over there. Just got back from Olympia the capital of Washington State visiting family pretty close to where Marcus lives.

The hay filter barrel is my old charcoal gasififer barrel. The cut out is where the old hopper was build in. I will weld this up with some flat metal. The cooling tubes will go pass this spot. I will extend the upper part if I need more filter area. This unit will slide into the back square tube hitch mounts on the 1996 Subaru Outback or on the front bumper square tube mounts on the motor home. It will run my 4 KV generator.
I need to weight my pieces of this gasififer unit. I hoping it will not get to heavy for the Subaru. I can mount the cooling rack on top of the roof to help with weight on the back end of the car. I was hoping to make it a slide on unit though.
I think the slycone filter and ash clean out hatch will work great. Still need to build a heat shielding aground the lower part of the fire box because I did finally figure out the gasififerunit has to go as close to the back bumper as possible, so the back hatch door is not going to be able to open with the gasififer unit mounted on the car. I will have to access my fuel from the back of the car using the back door, or my luggage carrier box on top of the car. Using the box on top will hide the cooling tubing on top and the air will still travel under the box and cool the cooling tubes if I build it this way. More then likely it will be built this way like Jo’s Volvo and others have done.
In my thinking I am still trying to ( K.I.S.S.) Keep It Silly Simple. This is hard for a over complicate things thinker like me. Lol


I did some weighing of my parts so far. It is still with the extra parts that will be needed be around 300 pounds. That is two of me. So this car is a 5 passenger car and with luggage should haul around 800 pounds. So with charcoal 100 pounds we are still good from my estimations. Crude I know.


You’ll definitely want to bolster the mount for the gasifier, anchor to multiple points. As the mount goes further back that weight is multiplied.


I’m sure you have looked it up Bob, but Suburu recommends 200 lbs maximum tongue weight for an Outback. Going with what Cody said, that would be right at the bumper. Every foot farther out would definitely compound that. I would at least consider putting some adjustable air ride shocks on it and if they make coil overs for that model I’d consider that as well. I once had a big Western snow plow mounted on a 1985 Bronco and I had to put air bags on the front to make that work.


Yes you are both right. The actual mounting brackets will mount on two points on each side and on the body ahead of the bumper in the center area of the car. So it will have six bolting points. I might even weld the brackets on and have it so the rack slides in and bolts tight. Yes, the closer the gasifier to the bumper the better. This is why I decided to go with the roof mounted cooling tubing and carrier for charcoal on top of the car. All of it will be in front on the rear wheels. This will help off set the gasifer weight behind the back bumper. But the total weight will still be on the rear suspension.
I put air bags on my 92 Dakota truck, what a difference it made in how it handled doing down the road. Thank you both for your input, I appreciate it very much. This what makes this DOW site so great for every builder.


I was thinking if i put a car gasifier on a reese hitch i might bolt a bracket on the body beside the hatchback or trunk and hang a chain or bar to stable the deck for the gasifier or charco unit.

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A Reese hitch system is way to expensive than it is worth to me to hang a gasififer on the back of my car or truck.

OK thanks Robert-i forgot you putting in the trunk or hatchback of vehicle.If my head wasent sewed on- i would forget it too these days-i feel like worse than some 85 year olds and i am only 64 till june. Since they put me under for sergery- i hope they dident over medicate me- it could be i drink to much coffee-i think that messes with memory a little.

Has any body put a wood gasifier in a dodge carivan or the chevy mini van-i seems like maybe one was built here on dow.??THANKS I might build a lighter wood gas unit and put in a mini van- maybe just big enough to get like 60 mpg. MY pontiac vibe barely gets about 25 mpg average on cheap gas around here.

One of the guys here ran a Simple Fire on a Chevy Lumina minivan.

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THATS the one i was trying to remember- no wood gasifier yet in mini vans then THANKS.I was surprized my dodge carivan van got good mpg for the utility it had. seem like it would make a low wood consumption vehicle if the timing could adapt to wood gas.18–22 mpg.

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this is the topic:
Charcoal Powered Lumina APV Minivan - Small Engines / Charcoal Gasification - Drive On Wood!

Guilty as charged. :blush:


Dan, You are Guilty as Charred. :grinning:


Thanks mike for posting the charco powered mini van- i was thinking i might put a wall behind the front seats on one, open up the roof to let any smoke out , and put a light duty wood gasifier behind the front seats,and cooling rack on the roof. if i run across a deal on a mini van anyway. THANKS

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Finely after much scratching my head. This is what I have come up with. As you know weight is a big problem on the back of any small car. My double flute has some heavy duty parts in its build. So mounting it as close to the back of the car is very important. I have the two channel support piece bolted into place and welded a channel across the back.
In the pictures you can see the center balance point of the gasifier. It will pivot on this spot and it looks like it will only need to pivot back 25° to clear the hatch back door when open up.
Using my overhead crane for support hanging the gasifier so camera shots are not that great. But you can get the idea of what I am trying to accomplish here.

Now back to building the tilting part of the frame that the gasifier will sit on and hayfilter if I choose to place it there, not sure yet because of weight. It still might go up front of the bumper of the car like they do on the other side of the great pond.
Oh one more thing I just thought of when looking at the last picture. With the gasifier tilted back like that, it would make it much easier to load the hopper if it were taller.


I finished up with under the car frame bolting to the gasifier support frame.
And now I can jump up and down on it with my 165 pounds. It is solid.
I welded the pivot points on for tilting the gasifier bottom bracket that the gasfifer will be mounted to.