Hi I’m Richard!
! I’m old,poor, and stupid. I guess I can’t fix the old and stupid parts, but if I can learn to make a vehicle I may not be as poor. The $150-$200+ a month for gas takes to big a chunk out of my $850 a month Social Security.
I know nothing about wood-gas but I have the time to learn. I have applied to take introduction to welding next month at the community college down the road. But the class is full… I’m first on the waiting list though. So there should be openings because of the no show students at the beginning of the year. therefore i am just about ready. Kieth WE NEED YOUR BOOK REAL SOON!.
OK my beginning of an ever increasing list of questions.
What fuel economy do your cars/trucks? Kieth WaYNE says hes dodge v-8s get 1.3 miles to a pound. The article about making a wood gas motorcycle at a college in Florida said they got 20 miles to a pound but they didn’t say what size that bike was. So speak up everybody just how economical are you fire breathing monsters??
How often do you have to stop and feed them>>> Stopping every 10 minutes would render wood gas impractical. But If it would go an hour(2 would be better)then wood-gas would do fine for cross country as well as local trips. So, how long do you topically go before having to refuel everybody ? Are large hoppers possible? ETC ETC ETC>
What truck is best to convert in each of the small mid size and large truck categories? I would like to use a Chevy s-10 or Astrovan because I have had such good luck with the 4.3 v-6 motors in them. But I don’t know if the throttle body system is good to use or if the type of computer in them will by OK to use.So please speak up what cheap, less than $2000(Less than $1500 is actually more in my ballpark) truck/van would be best to use.
Yes there will be more stupid questions coming as things progress. Please have patience with me.
ALL I WANT IS TO BE FREE !!! JUST AS WAS SAID IN ONE OF MR. WAYNE’S VIDEOS!
SINCERELY;
THE NEWBIE
RICHARD.
I do not see an star beside your name, so the first money you need to spend is for the premium membership. Everything you need to get started is on the website. There are around 38 videos that teach you step by step how to build the WK gasifier. I am new to woodgas but I have a system that I am almost ready to start installing in my truck bed. I am just following the videos.
Fuel economy varies depending on the vehicles’ original economy. Equivalency is around 16-20 lbs per mile. My truck uses 1.3lbs per mile, it’s a heavy old Dodge 3spd.
Hoppers hold around 70 lbs. This goes as far as 100 miles for Wayne, around 50 for me.
Any truck will work, best to get something overpowered on gasoline so it’s still a good driver on woodgas, 30% less power.
No stupid questions, read and learn everything you can and if you cat find the answer just ask.
Wood gas is free. Not free as in free beer, free as in…well… free kittens.
Greetings Richard,
Welcome to Drive on Wood !!!
Both my father and I have been driving on now for 3 years. Enjoying every mile along the way don’t wait for the book Chris and Richard are right there are videos and drawings on the site right now. BBB Sean
I have a 4 cyl Ranger and I stop every 45 min or so to refuel. I get 1/2 a pound to the mile driving about 50 mph and then it goes down to about 3/4 pound per mile at 65. I like the performance of the Ranger, but I don’t like the dual overhead cam or the plastic intake. These two things are not practical for wood gas in a vehicle and I would not use another engine like this. I have about 4 or 5k miles on the Ranger timing chain that I replaced this past Feb., and it appears to be slapping again. Not quite sure yet, but I think so. The chain is 22 bucks and take me about a week to take the truck apart and put it back together again. Not so good.
Hey RichardD
A menber here Mike LaRosa has done a 4.3L V-6 pickup conversion.
He says is is super busy now and may not chime in. Go to “Whats New” at the top. Open it up. Then open “Members” In the search box type in his name and open up his members page. Read back through his posts comments here and see if you get enough answers.
If not message him directly on his 4.3L experience and recommendation now.
Look at the upper right side of the page and you should see a block labeled " premium ".
Hold your clicker on it and a drop box will come down that reads " construction " click on it.
Giver us a yell if you have any problem getting on it.
Here is another Newbie with a whole lot of questions.
Is the 4 Cyl Ranger that Bruce is talking about, a Ford Ranger, and what is the engine capacity.
The Toyota FZ 4.5 liter engine is about the only large capacity straight 6 that is easy to come by here in South Africa. The latest engines are EFI controlled engines. Has anybody fitted a gasifier to one and how do you deal with the electronics? The earlier models use carburettors, would this be a better option to gasify.
Richard D; I am a V6 fan (in college they taught me you couldn’t build a V6) I now have a ‘94 Chev full size 1/2 ton V6 running on wood gas and I’m not going to race anyone but it does a good job of getting me from A to B. I would think that the S-10 would work better than mine. I designed my own gasifier and I think Mr. Wayne’s design might do better. Stick with a pick up truck. I started out with a V6 Blazer but mounting a gasifier on the rear bumper through the car all out of balance. My engine is a "throttle body injection and the only modification to the engine or computer was the usual “timing change”. Welding; I am from the old school so have little experience with “mig” welding, but I’m learning. You can do this entire WK build with a “mig” welder, so after you learn the basics of moving a puddle etc, with oxy/ accet welding skip over stick welding and spend time "mig’ welding. It is good to be able to lay a “good looking” bead , but just important is to learn to overlap the welds so that you don’t get "pin"hole. Much welding is light gauge so maybe take tubing and practice welding a bottom on and then fill it with water to check for pin hole. Ask the instructor about this for other ideas. You will haves to weld thicker material but your machine set up will get you through that. The harder part is thin metal. A GOOD welder is required. You are going to have to do a lot of metal cutting. So learn that in class. I use Oxy/Acc but I understand the Plasm Cutters are much better. In either case this is a MAJOR expense. (keep going to the class and using their equipment as long as you can. They have the best equipment and as long as your project relates to welding they will probably help you with the build.) To me all of this is a major portion of what you will have to do and know until you get the vehicle built and start learn to drive it. When you get to that point, this web sight is the best for assistance.
Hello DavidM
If this is the cast iron headed pushrod valved staight six engine version like was Toyota imported here into the States this would be an excellant engine to woodgas.
Any engine, in any application, easy to block the trottle plate to restict to ~1/2 power on gasoline and pre-simulate your top speed and acceleration capabilities if woodgas fueled. I’m a stationary guy myself, never driven a mile on woodgas, but the vehicle guys all say the woodgas power band will feel differetly, much smoother, quieter with better low RPM lugging torque.
Take TomC’s excellant advice to heart and use the Toyota cargo bed version.
Use Mr Waynes done-it expereinced advice to favor the best power to weight ratio and use the short, cab long cargo bed version.
Impossible to be able to “have your cake and be able to eat it all too” without becoming fat and slowed; or sicked and weak.
