I have at least three of those Magnehelic gauges, maybe more if I dug though all my crap. Still in the boxes they came in. Got them 40 years ago when I was installing automotive paint systems. It’s cheaper for companies to just scrap things than to ship them back to their home base and restock them. I used to get a lot of really good stuff like that because I was the project superintendent and was the first one on the job and the last one to leave.
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What’s round, shiny, collectively holds 110 gallons, resists rust, and would make the perfect hopper material for the WK going on my GMC?
That’s right.
Even the lids are stainless.
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I am so jealous!!! Where did you find those?
GC
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A local distillery, they used to use them as mash tuns. Rims are a little dented but I think I can fix that. It was not cheap, he knew what he had. He also has an 85 gallon stainless Overpack drum I was so tempted to buy.
These are only 20ga thickness so I’ll have to be real careful.
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Wow, that will attract women Cody. That’s why I painted my ss hoppers - to fight off at least some of the gold diggers when I’m out driving 
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How does the paint help? I thought it was general consensus that Sweden only has SS.
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Shiny is the key word. An ugly dull paint helps 
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Wow Cody that is a great find. I’m so envious of you. When I was building my gasifier I had looked into buying those, but at over $700 a barrel I just couldn’t justify that expensive.
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There’s a website that sells some used ones for a little over $200 USD per barrel but the shipping is insane. 70 dollars for FedEx ground, and who knows how much the Freight option would be. That’s why I jumped on these locally.
My bottom barrel is still going to be Carbon steel since it doesn’t rust as easily. Just going to use these as hoppers.
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A while ago a project followed my brother home, a very in need of love and care car trailer, and this was welded into the front right corner of the frame rail. It was rather useless as it couldn’t reach 3/4 if the trailer so he had me cut it out and patch the frame rail back together into a normal flat deck car trailer and this ended up living in the corner of my shop for the last year. Far to good to end in the scrap dumpster, I just couldn’t think of a good use for it. Was going to make a plate foot for it and mount it in the bed of the dodge wood burner, but it would even come close the reaching the ground for picking things up onto the bed. Then while cleaning in the shop the other day I found a twisted from an accident pintel hitch with a heavy duty 1/2” steel plate as the backer/bolt plate. Plenty heavy enough so I slapped the 2 together to make a hitch mount crane. Already been pretty useful, and yes it is limited by the tongue weight the truck can hold, but useful non the less. And now it can follow me home every time the truck leaves home 
I’d like to add a harbor frieght atv 12 volt winch to the top so I can reach out and drag things to the truck, then add a pair of tongue jacks that can slip into the hitch from either side to act as stabilizers in the future. Theory being move firewood and logs much easier with less back pain. It needs a seal replaced on the hydraulic Ram at the pump handle but for a bunch of free parts and 20 minutes of welding I dig it, 360* loading capability. With a small extension on the boom I could easily pick the firetube for maintenance or repairs
Edit: this idea has been stewing in my mind since seeing the crane in @mggibb ford being used to load firewood rounds. Need a cheap set of log tongs to live in the wood box so I can do the same. Only 3 years later did all the parts fall in my lap to finally get it done
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I made something similar to lift saw mill logs into the bed of my truck. Just a pulley on a curved upright set over the ball on the hitch. Just a hand crank winch. I had to put a swing down leg on the hitch frame because the weight of the logs was dropping the springs down to the bump stops. Probably wouldn’t have been a problem but I wanted it more stable.
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Been taking gobs and gobs of this Korean Heat Treated true dimension 2x3 wood home from work. They lag bolt them together in some kind of frame. I’m the only one that takes them because I actually take my 1/4" impact to work to dismantle the bolts.
Do you guys think these would be okay for the flatbed after a burn treatment and some motor oil finish, or should I shell out for some 6" wide pressure treated decking planks? I don’t know the species of wood but it’s not heavy, though it takes forever to burn. Might be the Asian equivalent to Douglas Fir?
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If you try to break one (an ugly one) and it doesn’t break super easy and if they are long enough I would use it.
Decking planks you can always buy at a later time if you should want to. Just build it so you can replace the deck without dismantling half the truck to get to it.
If you have enough of them you can choose which end to turn them to get the thickness you want (2 or 3 inches)
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Exactly what JohanM. said.
Truck and trailer decking material is a supposed to be a wear sacrificial. So make it replaceable. Accumulative weight is a great factor too.
Go with a heavy dense wood and pay the price always with every mile traveled.
Another way to evaluate things CodyT. is to apply the reasoning that what you do have on-hand should be at least 2X as valued as something you have to research out; source; pay-for; and then pay more in Shipping&Handling and acquisition Taxes.
So the purpose acquired had better damn well be at least 3X better that the already owned on-hand!!
This reasoning approach saves vehicles, personal relationships, and marriages.
Oh yeah. 350 Chevies do not blow up. They do wear too far to be useable without then having to dump a lot of money and effort in restoring to usability. Ha! Worry about storms and aliens instead.
S.U.
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It seems to be fairly straight grain for most of the 8 foot boards. I think my uncle has a planer, if not I could try ripping them. I will try thinning them down to 1.5" thick so they’ll be flush with the square tubing and do a strength test on a few before deciding. I should have enough tubing to brace the boards at least 3 times in the middle. Two center braces for a 6 foot long bed is probably plenty. Short-ends of the square tube are going to brace the corners.
To finish the wood I’ll torch burn the outside and mix up some old diesel and used motor oil to slather on.
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Nice Tone 
A soon-to-be gasifier, or a still? 
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You could make a lot of rakija with that!
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If you guys celebrated Halloween like we do in the states, I would say a Headless Alien, or killer robot. Add a few led lights, and some other decor to show off the nice pattern on the stainless, The fun part would be a speaker inside. I bet it would echo pretty wickedly. and you would get bonus points if it moved or vibrated. Maybe a top flips up and clangs as it drops back down.
It is almost exactly what you were thinking wasn’t it?!?
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Hmm, this container has a volume of approx. 400 l, a nicely designed lid and also nicely made, unfortunately it will have to be cut in the upper part in order to make a gasifier… I have a vision of making a large wood gasifier for an engine out of it Jenbacher, which could work slowly all day, well, but it won’t be anytime soon. There will be water cooling above and the gas will also be water cooled, it will have to swallow different sizes of wood, which will have a lot of time for drying and pyrolysis, the upper nozzles will be installed in a diameter of at least 50 cm…dreams are allowed.
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