Thrive Off Grid

Another tip is if you ever plan to run wood fuel. Dont run it with the ammo box, that acid will eat right through it. I wouldnt run wood in that anyways. But the way you have it set it is not for charcoal. You built the wood core so its actualy not correctly set up to run charcoal. You need to remove the guts completely and block off the back jets and only use the front nozzle with water drip.

6 Likes

already planning the gas cooler. i have the valves closed on the 2 air jets. I also have no restriction plate in this its straight 9in center all the way through with almost 2 in high density insulation. So far i have no plans to run wood chips, charcoal seems like it has way to many benefits over wood chips. As always thanks for all the great feedback i am only crawling and Matt is truly a master if this craft.
Thank You

9 Likes

Yeah keep it as is. Its working so dont fix it LOL

8 Likes

Nice build there Darrell , very neat and tidy indeed , hope you manage to get the charcoal retort running very soon as that store bought stuff isn’t the best for engine’s. although Matts design should cope with the small amount you may get from it .
Dave

8 Likes

here is a test of a northern self reliance injector on the ammo can gassifier. Great success.

4 Likes

Yes the store bought is crap. I had such a hard time with the ammo can gassifier just because of the store bought charcoal. i did a bit of scouting today and lots of wood to work with. very excited.

8 Likes

This is day 2 of my test on the ammo can gasifier and the northern self reliance ejector, with a aquarium pump. My wife said you cant see the gasifier in the dark so i posted this to. It works great. I would like to try to set this up on a cooking stove, like camp stove conversion.

13 Likes

Well I can post the Nozzle thread. So reposting here. Although I did edit the last post over on that thread with this one.

Ok finally video is uploaded.

Ok summery for today. The machine ran a total of 2 hours and 45 minutes. This is very promising as 2 hours if I remember right is about typical. or should I say; was lol. However, it drank the 2 liters within the first hour and 15 minutes. There was a good 45 minutes where it had no flow at all and then at the end after I wacked the nozzle with a hammer I had flow again but only for the remaining 45 minutes. I dont think the nozzle was actually boiling though as the wick was messed up so water was bypassing and just dripping out the vents.

Based on what I saw today I think this unit can process at least 3 ltrs of water if not 4. It ran very strong with the mixer valve at 60% open this is also more than typical. 40% is typical.

Ok so I found some numbers of how much Hydrogen 1 liter of water will produce and the BTU value. This is from the interwebs so dont roast me. But I have come up with this same number over and over again so I think its accurate. 1 liter of waters adds 14,326 BTU’s. So my goal is 4 liters per 10 gallons of fuel and for me 1 gallon is about equal to 1 lbs. So 10 gallons equals 10 lbs of charcoal fuel.

1 lb of charcoal is around 9500 BTU. So 95000 BTU per hopper load.

Total BTU combined if 4 liters of water can be achieved is 152,304 BTU gross. This is not factoring the oxygen to carbon shift. I cant wrap my head around that as the charcoal is part of that number. I bet it adds another 10,000 BTU maybe more?

I cut the nozzle back apart and rebuilt it. Yeah the wick is a no go, it is what clogged up from the rust inside the water tank. I hate saying this but if I go to this jet we will have build some things out of stainless; I really hate stainless steel. But I guess I can justify it as so far this has shown huge promise!!. I also relocated the water inlet to the side instead of on top. I flushed the water tank out and then added a small amount of motor oil. The oil should form on top and coat the walls as the water is consumed. Just dont let it fully empty as I think the oil would carbonize in the nozzle chamber. But that is the fix for the time being.

So tomorrow I will re test and hopefully I wont have any hic ups.

10 Likes

Well I have seen enough to make the decision to employ this new nozzle on the 2025 models. So since I will be stocking stainless sheet there will be some additional parts made out of SS. The lid, side brackets, water tank and flare cup. I have SS parts to re build the nozzle but this time I will be doing some tuning as this so far seems to be able to extend farther into the charbed without degradation. So that is the next test to get the hopper to empty into the center. This I could not do before and this years extended nozzle was degrading.

Also making more fuel and trying a pre drying method. Simply adding a drum on top and filling it up with the next batch to run to pre dry it even after its been seasoned.

3 Likes

I ordered steel today.

A sheet of 14 ga. P&O Mild Steel 60 X 120" is $81.90 per sheet

A sheet of 14 ga. 304 Stainless 60 X 120" is $337.72 :frowning:

The nozzle parts in 304 isnt too bad about a 30 dollar difference and the pipe is longer than the original version.

2 Likes

Well stacking that drum gave me a new idea. Im going to turn it into a double retort. The issue is you can only make it so big and tall and then be able to lift the drums out.

But I could make it modular. For the top outer drum I could just weld it to the lid of the lower retort and punch vents at the bottom. Then just an outer 55 gallon drum with its bottom cut out to stack on top. When its done you just put the lid on the top and shut the valves off. The nice about the top one is I can use a 30 gallon drum as there is no burn box to deal with. This could make it way more efficient.

Its in super nova mode now. Actually I would make the top retort just like the lower and punch a hole in the top of the lid of the bottom one so gas from the top one can pass thru. Then the top outer will just slip on over the top so it can be assembled and disassembled.