Throttle Body Injection

I built a basic FEMA Gasifier for a stationary generator on a farm in upstate NY a few years ago. I haven’t had an opportunity or need to convert a vehicle until now.
I’m looking to convert a 96 Cherokee 318 V8. But I realized that I don’t understand the intricacies of the under-the-hood plumbing pertaining to TBI systems for woodgas conversion.
Apparently I have a minor phobia of Fuel Injection and electronically controlled vehicles.

Can somebody explain to me what needs to be done electronically and plumbing-wise to convert a vehicle like this?

(Sorry for my lack of knowledge - I knew it was a mistake to take medical courses in college instead of mechanics! Hahaha)

I converted a 4.3l 284? TBI GMC sierra. later I swapped it out for a 5.7L 350 TBI. Here is the link to my progress.

http://driveonwood.com/comment/5134#comment-5134

basically it’s as easy as running the woodgas into the original air breather above the TBI unit. You must however be able to adjust how much air gets mixed with the gas. I did this by placing an air intake slide valve opposite to the woodgas intake. This slide valve is operated from the cab via a large push/pull cable orginally used on old Johnson boat motors. One could mix the air with the woodgas immediately before the air plenum as well. I would definitely recommend plumbing the woodgas above the TBI vs below as I had an incredibly difficult time making it vacuum tight. Above the TBI there is no worrying about absolute vacuum tightness.

Slice in toggle switches to the power to the injectors so as you can turn them off when running on wood. TBI should have a return line for fuel so no need to turn off fuel pump, however I have heard that if you turn off the fuel pump but leave the injectors on the vacuum of the engine will pull a little bit of gasoline into the mix and help with acceleration and up hill driving when needed.

not pictured on my blog is a woodgas shut off buttery fly valve. basically a valve (in my case a 3inch throttle body from a mustang) that can be opened and closed from the cab to either allow wood gas into the plenum or close it off.

Things do get a little sooty in there. so far no problems with anything clogging, only removed Idle control valve recently to give a good cleaning with carb cleaner as idle was a little off, working great now. The soot comes off with a spray of carb cleaner and therefore cleaning is as simple as running the engine on gas an spraying the carb cleaner at the TBI.

any specific questions about my setup please feel free to ask.

Thank you for your help, Dustin!
I was afraid there might be some problems with sensors that would have to be dealt with.

I can only tell you about what I’ve so far noticed with my vehicle, I have not been driving on wood for very long… 2000km maybe 3000km. The truck runs fine on wood gas and gasoline but It does throw codes once in a while. I’m not sure whether it is from the wood gas, my shady engine swap, or just because some sensors are old and need replaced. If it’s any help, the engine throws codes when on gasoline as well so probably just need some replacement sensors… but I’m too cheap and I’m headed to a place where there is no emission laws.

This forum is very helpful.
I used to process Biodiesel to run farm equipment. Back when I was first learning to do that when I was 18, it was impossible to get help on forums like this. People very pretty protective of their setups and preferred maintaining bragging rights rather than helping new people to learn things.