It has an RC of 195. The NOCO’s guide says this charger is able to maximize up to an RC 230 battery. Taking ~17 hours. It did this battery in 15 hours. The charger did get hand-held hot at ~145F. The time and energy it put into this battery says this is still a good capacity battery. NOT “ruined”.
Next I tried to save a Group 34 AGM battery that had conked out at 4 years. NOCO Genius 10 charger after trying on AGM setting gave me a “failed-battery” indicator light. So I forced it into “Repair battery” mode. This rapid cycled the charging voltage between the 13 volts to 16 volts for 4 hours. Still get a “failed-battery” light.
Then I put it to work on the taken out Chinese small seal lead-acid battery from the Harbor Freight 9500 Inverter-generator:
“Repair Battery” mode charging rapidly alternating between 16 and 17 volts. Amperage must be limited in Repair mode as the charger and batteries are not heating or gassing out.
Ha! And I still would not trust this 3 year old small, minimum sized old lead-acid battery.
Lead-acids need to be sized 2X to 3X the actual capacity needed. At best they will degrade 1% loss per month. You size to still be able give you enough after 3 years for another 2-3 years of useable life.
Not hopes and dreams . . . practical, applied, technology. A solid 130 years of experiences in lead-acids. Telephone/telegraph services; cars/vehicles, submarines and others. Ha! Only 60 years or so, in my lifetime eating holes in my cotton wear. Work around lead-acids . . . fingers tongue test, taste fizzy; wash the cotton clothes fast to maybe save them! Wear leather; sheep’s wools; polyester blends; and nylon knits.
I gonna’ be loving this new full featured C1 charger.
Steve Unruh
Usually tesla doesn’t invent stuff like that, they usually take an idea that was thrown out, try to improve it, and rebrand it as their own… This might be the case… because if you have two stepper motors drive a ball joint. It is the ball with a rod coming out of it, and you have two gears that have to not bind on the rod. Then you have to hold the whole thing together. Getting a ball designed is probably the easy part. It is an intriguing problem. It is a good question to ponder while mowing the lawn.
at least 15 years i think about to find or to make a seed machine, now the calculations become more concret…
i found some pieces like that in our scrap pile…it is a piece from a gear and hardened…i think those pieces are generally hardened on the outer surface ind inside they are more soft for avoid breaking …i must cut with the angle grinder pieces large 1cm from the part with the grove…(for crop transport)
the angle grinder will cut it without problems i think and i get than some discs…but can i drill a hole than in the center with normal drills, or is the material also in the center very hard?
who has experience with material like this?
or must i glow the complete piece in the forge, and when yes, how long and what cool down method?
thanks for tips
If you can cut the material with a file you should be able to cut it with a drill.
If you must soften (aneal) the material heat it to orange color. Then cool it slowly surrounded by charcoal for insulation. I use a big coffee can 150mm. You must put the lid on the coffee can or you will burn up all the charcoal. One more LINK
Rindert
rindert, thanks for explanation…would ash also be good for cooldown or is charcoal better?
sean, a seed machine like on the pictures from a used stuff marketplace, also not very expensive, but too far away from me in north italy without car…
i like the small version what can be also drawn with a horse or motorcultivator, if the field maybee is too wet to enter with the crawler…the field is not large, so such a small machine would do it
tone, there is only one seeder near the way from you to us, near venice,but in bad conditions picture 4, weight about 200 kilos thinks the owner and 1,50 m large , 1 meter high and 2 meters long,… the others are on the other part of italy in north …now i have found some material as the gear pieces for the rolls, other gears for the reduction, so i am full in planing for seed quantity for square meter dividing on every seet aggregat…the planning is more or less ready and pieces are available…i will make also a narrower seed distribution from line to line (10 or12cm) to achieve more the advantages of wide thrown hand seewing, combined with equal deep layer of the seeds, also a bit less weight i can achieve with a self build, so it can be drawn also with the motorcultivator or the horse, if the field us too wet
I have a big battery pack for my leaf blower that wasn’t charging. I found some youtube videos that suggested dropping the battery from 12-18 inches onto something with no give (cement floor). It worked a treat… doesn’t make sense but I’ll take it.
Steve, are your Makita batteries NiMH? The battery management systems on lithium packs will shut them down if they drop below some minimum voltage. I’ll be interested to see if your 14.4V packs respond the same way.
Well this technique did work for me. Nice to have two batteries again even if they are old and now low time-use capacity.
Yes, KentP. theses are NiMH.
AnthonyB., yes indeed slamming a flooded liquid lead acid battery was a restore trick that would work sometimes. Shake down the loosened plate materials down into the used to be lower cell intentionally empty space. You will always then have less use capacity.
More modern designed starting FLA batteries biased designed for max CCA then this would no longer work. Too jammed packed tight inside with no space gaps.
Never works on AGM’s; Gel cells.
And I cannot see it working on dry cells types.
Seems it could cause more harm than good maybe fracturing cell to cell straps and welds. or causing internal short circuits.
I’ve pushed lead-acids hard for life use extensions. The “bad-luck” negative consequences? Battery internal shorts then localized ka-booms spraying acid and cutting shattered case shards. Yep. Me. More than once.
I strongly still favor NiMH when I can. They seem to just die.
LiON’s die too. Or; unfortunately overheat, and self fueling burn intensely. One cell phone I bailed on NEW that the battery kept overheating on charging. Then did it in usage.
My Milwaukie rechargables I leave partial discharged after use, and off chargers. Use the one that still has some power to get started while charging another while on-site working. Then hot swap while working.
No-no to me leaving them unattended on a charger. “The odds are not in your favor”. The consequences too scary dangerous.
Just what I’ve evoled to do.
Conservative Steve, that’s me. I’ve been gasoline on fire a time or two. No fun at all.
Steve Unruh
Good, good to hear. I also have some batteries that I will try this on. Thank you for the tip and report
Generally I find myself often being a bit skeptical of videos that come up in my flow on youtube, especially if they have a clickbait woohoo title then I usually won’t even bother watching it.
On a side note my dad cancelled his tv subscription almost two years ago as he didn’t think there was much worth watching anymore, he said (and I totally agree with him) that instead of watching some orchestrated tv-show or ’reality show’ he would much rather watch a 2 hour youtube video of someone picking/harvesting their own potatoes
Yes JohanM.
After watching just that ONE reset portable battery trick, then of course I got deluged with other recommended “fix-your-portable-batteries” videos.
Some may actually be valid. Most will be one-brand; one model; too specific.
I have no interest in becoming the portable do-all batteryman.
Here is also is a try-it “reset” suite of tricks for modern electrified vehicles video. Half of these I have done in professional shops.
Be warned though full battery disconnecting and then forced discharging the whole vehicle can, and will lead to losing many of the user programed, and vehicle learned memories too. Depends on the specific model and year of vehicle what will be affected.
It is no longer just as simple as losing your radio stations pre-set; or having your GM and a few others radios anti-theft systems locking you out . . . .
Any and all electronically controlled motor powered systems may, and can be, affected anymore . . . .
seats personalized memory settings; sun roofs travel; power opening and closing doors;
power windows range of travel; selected doors auto locks and unlock settings . . . .
Impossible in a busy, busy high volume shop environment to get these all set back to preferences. So the wise of us would plug-in a jumper battery keep a vehicle hot and live when doing vehicle battery changes and vehicle repairs requiring battery and tray removal for space access; versus suffer all of the returned vehicle owners complaints.
But on your own vehicle acting weird on you; why not try:
Many years ago when these videos started popping up for me I watched one that stated if I had a certain problem with the car I should cycle the ignition 20 times while braking and using the windscreen wash lever. I don’t really remember which actions I was supposed to do so I made the exaggerated previous up but I remember that it was something similar.
Anyway I thought it was so silly and wondered how many laughs a day the guy who put up the video got while he was thinking about how everybody was following what he told them and I guess my mind was made up that they all were folly because of that video but since then I have learned that many of them can be true, my eyes opened when I saw a video some years back about re-learning a car the positions of the electric windows. I had that car in the video with that error and tried the easy procedure and it worked like a charm.
Just like you said, why not try.
