What comes with this kit is AMAZING for golf cart upgrade

Here I will give you two true stories of new Tech evolution working to supplant an existing already decades developed capability:

Tungsten element incandesent light bulbs was a well know, well developed capability. If you wanted the cheapest, you bought the cheapest. And got what you paid for. If you wanted durability you bought up the for 130vac rated usage and used in our common 115vac.
The compact floroesents then became the newest, latest, greatest thing. They were “sold” to us as the wonder replacement bulbs. Useing far less energy and lasting 3X to 7X the service life. Therefore justifying their much higher purchase cost.
Problem. The 1st generation U-shaped tubes ones did not last. O.K. then; buy now the newer spiral tube ones. Better; but still in most cases not lasting their claimed ratings. Why? The heat in these was primarily generated in the illumination tube. Mounted up side down with any type of diffuser and they’d cook themselves to death. O.K. 3rd generation then came with better, clearer instructions as to mounting. And improved; with near instant turning on. No more hesitant step, entering a dark room waiting for light.
Then of course they were declared Bad, Bad for their mercury needed. True.
Or was that just to make market space for the newest darling screw in LED “bulbs”?
Front row has distinctly four generations of development A-19 LED developments.
That left hand one was my original expensive $20+ USD bought in 2008. The light output is actually a white-yellow. Rated to last for 15,000 hours. I used it for 30,000+ hours. It still works. But dim, dim now.
Next from the left is a 2nd generation $12 USD bulb. I used a bunch of them. Some failures before 15,000 hours. Those able to be mounted in any type of enclosure. The heat on these is made in the base electronics portion. They knew this. Why the 1st and 2nd generation had heavy metal fluted bases.
Two over are 3rd generation. Fake plastic heat fins on the one. The other with actually a heavy high quality ceramic smooth base The real differences were life, and costs. You got what you payed for.
The last at the right is the current standard to buy. I hate to call it 4th generation. All glass globe enclosed; light weight, and you’d swear was an incandescent by size, shape and weight.
Now rated down at 1/2; 7500 hours service life. I am only getting at most 3-4 months out of these. They start to annoying flicker. Or just die. A very poor, poor value. Now forced onto us here by law.

The second photo:
The rechargeable hand-held batteries, REAL; I bought, owned and used since 1995.
Nickel-Cadium → then Nickel-Metal Hydride → now Lithium-Ion.
Bad mouth Ni-Cad’s all you want; but they worked, and worked well for me. Had an inherent, state of charge memory effect. Best to always use down, before recharging. And DO NOT leave on the charger. Ni-MH worked as well but more operating TIME for the same weight. And no memory effect. Could at any time be topped up recharged.
The Lithium Ion? Even better energy density. But super picky too Hot; or too cold. And Christ-expensive.

Ha! Ha! I had thought to tell the story of lead-acids and when and where they went wrong. (1970’s gone low antimony; then using calcium as the lead stiffener)
Another day.

So higher voltage, big bank LiFePO folks . . . . yours will be the same story too.
Count on it. Count $$$ and $$$$.
Steve Unruh

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Thanks, but I just bought ( i hope) two sets inverter 12 k Deye and 48 kWh battery and install included for a price I just paid for the components. Dont dare to buy more with a price drop like this.

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I have had led’s burn out, but it has been pretty rare for me. However, I know you aren’t the only one with an issue. A number of times it has been the grounding rod to the house. They go bad, so the neutral can’t zero out and it causes a floating neutral.

The second issue which may be related to the first, is I suspect they are sensitive to reverse polarity in the socket. It shouldn’t make a difference, but I think it does because in older houses they shared the neutrals instead of using more wire. It isn’t uncommon to see two neutrals from two or more circuits, even on different sides of the box, all tied together.

Then you have the all your more common issues. like heat, poor bulb design like Feit, and dimmer switch issues. :slight_smile:

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They wanted to cut electric use since lighting is 15% of our electric use. The only technology available at the time that could do that was flourescent. At the same time, we also funded LED light R&D, ‘as the future’, because they showed more promise to reducing electricity and longer life, but in reality the tech didn’t exist with tech that doesn’t exist, there isn’t a real timeline. The main problem with flourescents is the mercury, the second issue is they flicker at like 60hz and some people are sensitive to that flicker and it gives them headaches.

It was planned obsolescence. It took a decade or more to get them cheap enough to be in the dollar store.

The research also contributed to tvs, cell phone screens, as soon as they came up with blue. Which was a japanese company, and in reality one guy with homemade lab equipment.
The big old heavy CRTs used like 500-1000w of electric. The led tvs use like 20-50w.


As far as batteries, it is similar. It is going to take more generations. There are many different use cases for batteries, and I don’t think they will converge on a single technology. We did intentionally start that way to help drive the price down. once you have the chemistry, you have to build it, and essentially pay off the machines and factories that build them. Once those get paid off, they can lower costs. but at the same time they are refining the whole system. from mining to end product.

There will most likely be another 2 generations of batteries before you kick the bucket. LiFe isn’t bad for general storage. If you can get over the shortcomings like temperature. In a way it is similar to EVs, if you can stay within the range most of the time, and charge at home. They are great. Once you exceed those parameters they aren’t as convenient at this point in time. They aren’t for everyone today… maybe tomorrow…

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I guess I’m missing something. Aren’t all the neutrals tied together at the box, then bonded to ground at a single point? Do you mean daisy-chaining different circuits on the way back to the box with a single neutral wire for many breaker circuits?

Exactly what I mean. I don’t know if that is related to the issue, or not. It just seems to be common with backwards wiring, and poor grounding.

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