I’ve always heard b21-b23 are non-interference, and b230 are interference engines, but i have my doubts.
A volvo 240 i had when younger i “rinsed” the timing belt i 140km/h, replaced it on a bus-stop, and no trouble, it had b230.
I know the b200 (volvo 360) is interference engine, happened to a friend.
And yeah, the 16 valve makes a valve mess, just by looking at it…
I guy i know break the belt on one of these, sent the head to a engine specialist, new valves and stuff, when he got it all together, and first start he managed to get his timing-light-strobe tangled up in the belt, and there we go again…
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That is nice sketches Tone, i hope you get that volvo 
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Things coming together slowly.
I plan to build a “aggressive” grate sweeper, to be able to run worse wood in this gasifier.
I plan to use a piece of rock-drill as a center shaft for the sweeper, to be able to experiment with a “Tone-nozzle”.
The shaft is going to be turned with the help of this old ratchet wrench, that fits the drill perfectly (22mm)
Im also going to sacrifice this 22mm socket, this is going to be the bearing through the grate, and the grate sweeper is going to be welded on the socket. Over-complicate things? Me?..
Material for the shaft, this rock-drill is 2,5 meters, no way im going to need a drill that long, i cut out a piece in the middle, then weld the drill-neck and crown together and i have a rock-drill im able to use, without standing on a ladder.
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Gasifier almost done, need to test fit it on the volvo, to measure the upper mounts position, to windy and cold this weekend, so more work next
This is a pump from an old gas station, i took the axle, bearing and shaft seal part from it.
Using the plasma cutter to trim it some.
Welded it in a piece of exhaust pipe, this became a pretty overkill shaft bearing/seal.
Welded it in the housing, and smacked together the grate scraper moving mechanism.
(I told you i like to over-complicate things)
The scraper i made of heat resistant stainless steel. Here it sits on it’s hexagonal axle, everything has a loose fit, to work in the glowing heat.
I tried the scraper mechanism by using a sturdy pipe wrench, and was able to bend down a nail i stuck in the grate, so hopefully it works.
I decided to insulate the old imbert reduction cone, as i don’t going to use a “outer charbed” as these where designed for. I cut some scrap sheet metal to hold the insulation in place.
I borrowed some ceramic wool chimney insulation from my charcoal retort.
Strapping the sheet together, and weld, this will be a “collar” , not welded in top or bottom.
Interesting to see how it works out?
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Goran, I think the 360 is a design from DAF, used when Volvo took over. Maybe that is why it has a different engine.
When I was smart and a student, I was a taxidriver in the weekends. My car was a 740 station, painted yellow with stripes like the NY cars. Drove forevere, almost a million. Did it almost ten years ( maybe I was not so smart 
) but enjoyed every mile. Automatic was a little rough. It ran on LPG , maybe that has some to do with it. Strong engines anyway. Cant wait to see two more Volvo s on woodgas.
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Yes, it’s correct, it started with Daf 66, later Volvo 66, variomatic.
The 360 s biggest engine was b200, built for European market, where many countries bases their vehicle tax on engine deplacement. It’s basically the same engine as b230.
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Thx. Very durable engine then.
Variomatic was sold to Bosch , wich is further developed to the cvt. funny cars, they ran just as fast in reverse. There were special in reverse races overhere
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I welded on the upper mounting points today, and cut a plate for the primary air intake, now i need to find some sheet to make a inner lining, to keep some of the heat inside the gasifier.
Upper mounts welded in place.
When welding thicker reinforcement to thinner material, a old trick is to continue with the weld on the thinner material, in a 45°angle, and let it continue about 1- 1 1/2", this will help avoid stress cracks where the thick material ends.
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Goran, l see spring realy kicked you in high gear! Looking real nice.
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Thanks Kristijan, but not many signs of spring here yet… well some days the sun shows it’s face, and i can really feel a “energy kick” and feel happyer than ever
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Some more done.
I cut up a small barrel (60 liters) to make a heat shielding inside.
Then i got the idea to use some of the glass-fibre fabric from my old filter, between the heat shield and outer housing, i don’t know if it will do much, but anyway.
Found another small barrel for the missing piece.
The bottles i pushed down there to expand and hold the shield in place for welding.
This stuff is THIN, a real pita to weld, just tacked it together.
I guess it’s not only it’s thin, it must be some realy bad recycled metal, it just burns away, even with low settings on the welder.
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So are you making a filter like what you had in the Chevy truck? Yup it looked like it needed a little cleaning with a blast of air or just shake it real hard.
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Hi Bob, thanks for the pic’s, well the volvo filter i haven’t really decided yet, but probably im going to use fine mesh, (screen printing mesh)
A little different from the Chevy filter, and much smaller, it going to need regular cleaning probably (no self-cleaning size).
Im going to visit a junkyard in close time, and see what stainless stuff i find, and build the filter after whats available 
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Yes, I could do that too, after I put in the new filter I get almost more in the cyclone than in the unit with soot, probably it breathes easier (and I drive faster) so after 200 - 300 km (120-190 miles ) I need to empty, so I could clean the filter at the same time.
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Goran, just a few words, the radiator that I use to cool the gas catches most of the ash and soot, I wash it with water and compressed air every 10 hours of operation, the process is very quick and easy, it takes about 5 minutes. I have not changed the contents of the filter for more than 100 hours of operation. This is just information.
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A little more work done.
Testing how it will hang on the volvo.
Sit’s perfect on the ball hitch.
The gas pipes ended up exacly where i wanted them, a insulated pipe inside the trunk is going to the trunk-mounted gas filter.
Yes! I really wanted 1" of snow again
I welded short pieces of stainless pipe in the nozzles to reduce the nozzle area some.
Restriction insert in place. The outer ring is a experimental “tar-fence”, i havent decided if im going to use it yet.
Tomorrow im going to get some asbestos gasket sheet, then it’s time to bolt the gasifier together
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Some work on the volvo.
Got some gasket material for the gasifier from a friend, unhealty stuff…
Cut out gaskets for the air-intake.
And the boring stuff, getting volvo ready for inspection.
I bought a super-cheap injector cleaner from amizon, worked great, variable frequency pulses, “exercises” the injectors while applying pressure (brake cleaner) through them.
It ran a little better afterwards, after i got everything gasoline-sealed up again.
I’ve struggled with the speedometer for a while, trying to repair it, no success, now it shows 80km/h standing still, and zero when moving.
Got tired of trying, and bought a cheap universal speedometer, not the fanciest installation, but will do for inspection.
I prepared for the fuel shut-off/pwm, i spliced in the wiring for the pump in the trunk, i put in a 16-wire in the trunk, to have enough spare wires.
I had some “vintage” controls for push-pull cable, prepared it to mount nearby the gear-stick, double control, one for air, one for idle.
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Little longer weekend, going to fix some more with the volvo, if i get some time left between meeting family and friends in easter-time
Today i traded some work for a set of good, used tires for the Chevy, year-around type, so i can legally drive it in the winter (even if it’s a slippery-sliding bastard)
I fixed up a simple “control-board” for the volvo, with three-way switches for fuel pump/ off/ pwm. And spare switches.
I was cheap and only bought 2 thermometers, im going to try shifting switches for the thermocouples, one display for hopper temp/gas temp out of gasifier. The other for gas temp out of filter/ gas temp after cooler. (Or maybe exhaust temp, to experiment with ignition advance)
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Some late work yesterday, bench-testing the control-board.
And some soldering.
Ofcourse i lost the plug-in connector for my cheap afr-meter, had to take it apart to figure out the pin’s connection.
The cheaper they are, the more colorful, it seems?
I was unsure if it was possible to splice thermocouples, because the joint is what gives the reading, but no trouble, it’s just the joints between the 2 different wires.
My idea with switches to choose, 4 thermocouples on 2 displays work.
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I see you are using the same kind of afr meter that I use. I like these better than the kind that has the dancing lights.
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