I just bought one of these, it should be here by Wednesday. I’ll probably be looking for more instructions then.
Thanks,
Rick
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Mr Carl puts a voltmeter in similar to these.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Wire-Red-DC-2-5-30V-LED-Panel-Digital-Display-Voltage-Meter-Voltmeter-/311106248000?hash=item486f609d40:g:A0oAAOSwqYBWpuQO
Mine has an led that changes from green to red. You can tell what it’s doing a little. Not sure how the ones with a display would work.
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A two wire has a limited low range 2.5 - 30 VDC
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-2-5V-30V-0-28-Display-LED-Digital-Voltmeter-Voltage-Tester-Meter-Yellow-BO-/291666481165?hash=item43e8ad500d:g:QHUAAOSw~otWd2sz
A 3 wire will read from 0 - 30 so I like it better as I run a lot at about 2VDC in hybrid
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Reverse-polarity-protection-car-DC0-100V-three-wire-DC-digital-voltmeter-SY-/331378144220?hash=item4d27ad33dc:g:MWYAAOSw0vBUZBkc
two of the wires carry 12 volts to power the display while the third wire monitors the actual voltage to the fuel pump.
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Be ware in ordering one of these. Mine came through a 0–100 volts. Way bigger scale than I need, not as specific. TomC
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RickB your 1992 Cad should have a two line fuel system. This second line is for returned gasoline from a fuel rail mounted fuel pressure regulator. Fuel pressure regulator is intake manifold vacuum activated.
Now what I’ve done on these for hyper-mileage strechings is to route a vacuum hose into the drivers compartment to a plastic manual vacuum pump/guage set up. INCREASING the applied vacuum opens the regulator by-pass lowering the systems pressure/volume capability. Less injected fueled delivered.
Then switch on/off the fuel pump power to enable/disable.
Only will work with on-engine fuel rail mounted regulated systems.
And WILL set an engine code light, if you care.
S.U.
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Carl I see lots of 2 wire meters on ebay that is listed as 0-30 is this not right.
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Marv, Carl,Jim, Tom,
I just ordered a full size 2.5V - 30V LED display for all of $1.29. Now I just have to wait for the slow boat from China…
Steve, I already ordered the trailer brake controller so I am somewhat committed to the electrical route. If for some reason it doesn’t work out I will try the fuel regulator method. NYS inspection doesn’t check for check engine codes if it is pre- OBDII but doesn’t like to see the light lit, easily remedied with a piece of electrical tape. Thanks for the suggestion, I appreciate your input.
Rick
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Jim, you’ll have to show me one. All I’ve seen require minimum 2VDC to light up the display.
Here’s how they mislead.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-0-30V-Blue-LED-Car-Digital-Display-Voltage-Voltmeter-Panel-Meter-Gauge-GRW-/172179740651?hash=item2816b657eb:g:QmAAAOSw3mpXHdzH
Further down in the specs, it says “Minimum operating voltage: +4.5 V” That’s China for you. Yes they will read 0 but you won’t be able to see it.
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Thanks Carl
I see now what you mean, I was just reading the head lines not the specs.
hi rick its paul I was wondering if your up for some company tomorrow the 21st I’m expecting some parts to show in Syracuse and thought ide stop by if your going to be around . it most likely wouldn’t be till later in the day I just half to catch the dealer before they close. let me know
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Hi Paul,
Later in the day should be OK but I have a lot of things going on earlier so it would be a good idea to call first. My number is 315-663-5665. Our address is 4488 Octagon Rd., Tully 13159. We’re actually in the town of Otisco close to Route 80.
The long cable and trailer brake control came in so now I can proceed with the Caddy.
Look forward to your visit,
Rick
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Hey Rick, does your Caddy have the 4.9 engine? If it does I don’t see how any engine can be more compatable to woodgas, I did make the distributor adjustable but only used it for a short time, it ran beautifully without manually advanced timing, I think the computer did the advancing!!
All you need is three toggle switches, one for each bank of injectors and one for fuel pump shut off! You definitely have to have a valve from gasifier on/off and air control!
No need to make it more complicated than what it is!! Herb
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Hi Herb,
Yes, it does have the 4.9, glad to hear that it is easy to run on woodgas. I just finished fiddling with the mechanical timing advance so that now it works smoothly but it only will advance over an arc of 2", so I’m glad to hear it really isn’t necessary. I now have the brake control for the fuel pump and cable for the woodgas line butterfly so hopefully soon I will have it on the road powered with wood. I am going to try to avoid the shutoffs on the injectors, I tried putting them in last year and found it frustratingly difficult to do even with working through the fusebox. Very awkward for me to work with the two fuses in question, maybe because I’m left handed.
Thanks,
Rick
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I am going to try to avoid the shutoffs on the injectors,
If it’s the same as mine it will trick you into thinkin it’s running great on wood but it will be pulling gas out of the tank with fuel pump off and voltage to injectors, you will find the shut offs for injectors are necessary!! Sorry, Herb
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Yes, Herb, you are right (sigh). I think the wire I was using for my last attempt was too stiff, I will try more flexible wire this time.
Thanks,
Rick
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Well, its amazing what warmer temperatures, better light and a slightly different idea can do to make a dreaded job easier! Today I bent two 3" pieces of heavy gauge solid copper wire into U’s after flattening the ends, soldered some lengths of flexible wire onto them and inserted them into the two empty fuse sockets for the fuel injectors, one U going into the supply side of the two sockets, the other U going into the load side of the two sockets. The two U’s are connected through a switch so now I can positively shut the injectors off (Thank you, Herb, for not letting me slack out of doing this). Also, I wired the trailer brake relay into the fuel pump circuit, it seems to work, when the voltage display comes in I’ll install it to see actually how much voltage it is supplying.
Tomorrow, schedule and weather permitting, I’ll try the Caddy out on wood again.
Rick
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Sorry I didn’t tell you haw easy it was for me to shut of the injectors. I didn’t know how the Cadillacs were set up being a poor Chevy guy. Great to hear your progress; TomC
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Took the Caddy out on the road today, still not running right but when I got back I found out that my 3" diameter metal flare pipe and 3" cap on top of my blower stack had come off and disappeared somewhere on the road creating a giant air leak in my line in between the radiator and filter. Best I could do on the road was hybrid mode, as soon as I shut off the injectors the engine would stall. Next time I will screw the pipe onto the stack as well as silicone it. At least with the brake controller I could run hybrid easily.
After shut down noticed leaks around just about every barrel clamp, I will apply silicone around the clamp edges, better get multiple tubes.
Will try again next week, this weekend I’m going to beer camp!
Rick
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Well, THERE’S your problem, right there!
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