I’d say if you’re getting an all new setup, go for the 80v. I did buy both a new Gen 60v and an older Gen 80v. I gave the 80v 18" to my dad and he really likes it.
I kept the 60v because my mother owns a lot of other 60v tools so I have beaucoup batteries. My other reason for keeping the 60v was it had a longer bar and I wasn’t interested in trying to find out which aftermarket bar fit the 80v.
I should note that 90% of what my 60v saw does is buck down logs and branches.
Did a cleaning on my 60v saw, here’s what I really like about the Greenworks. I’m sure a lot of other battery saws do this, I hope they do at least.
Here’s a pic before cleaning.
Here is a video to take a look at:
I did not realize the counterfeit’s were being marketed so closely labeled confusing.
Watch the whole video to see a bit which tools usages you’d really want to keep corded powered.
Watch to 19:00 minutes to see the burn down shorted not-safe cell batteries.
S.U.
There used to be more mistakes, in packaging and grammar. The counterfeits actually performed pretty well tbh.
Fake USB flash drives and sd cards got so bad, I won’t order those online.
I actually wonder what happens if you put the right batteries in them, if they perform as well, and dont have the automatic disable after self-discharge like you ran into with the genuine ones.
More surprising was the short test and the fake ones had a blowable fuse, and the genuine didn’t, and relied on the batteries themselves to short. Samsung batteries have a blowable fuse built in to protect against internal shorts that cause fires similar to the one at 19:00.
Brian and i have a lot of Makita tools chainsaws , grease guns , drills and impacts ect , over here we are lot lucky to have the great prices that guy mentioned for genuine batteries , here a 6amp Makita is around $180 AU do a conversion and works out at around $120 for a single battery , we have been buying the rip off 9ah batteries now for 5 years with pretty good results as long as you don’t take them down to where they cut out , they seem to last a good long time , we have had 3 that once run down over and over have gone into fault mode , so now we only use down too 1 bar at $99 for two 9ah were ok with that .
Dave
Google around. There MIGHT be a way to bring them out of fault mode. IIRC you charge the batteries with a pwm charging supply -slowly- without the control board until they are above what the minimum voltage is supposed to be.
When I was looking at the teardown of the greenworks knockoffs besides the battery quality, the biggest difference was they didn’t solder all the temperature and fault detection wires to the board, which is like 2x as much work, but the boards looked close to identical and the spots were on the board for the extra wiring.
Missing ground wires and such were the difference in the soldering iron I got as well.
I had an cheap Skil (19€) that hold up 14 years before the magic smoke leaked out, now they don’t make that model.
hi Göran
old Skil angle grinders had Bosch internals, they were good tools.
i had both Bosch and Skil, scavenged parts from one to fix other.
but not anymore.
newer Skils both 230mm and 125mm were typical chinesium crap.
now i have migrated to Makita, they are pretty cheap, considering their quality.
one thing i love in Makita 125mm grinder is the size of the reductor - it is really small.
that’s good for reaching difficult places.
first thing to fail in Makita is the rotor(armature), but replacement costs around 25 euros - not so bad.
I picked up the 8ah battery for my saw. It is a long walk back to where I am currently cutting. The small one is good for brush but it dies too fast for an actual tree. I wanted to order it before US stock ran out and tariffs kicked in on the new stock. (which I am unclear whether it affects small dollar items or not. Before they didn’t tariff -everything- just over a certain dollar amount.)
Well I’ve finally used this chainsaw enough to give it a proper review. Got is last fall for $230 CAD. It came with a 16in bar and chain, but no batteries. The chain it had was a smaller file size, so I either had to buy a file or get a new bar and chain. I opted for the latter option since I wanted to try the Oregon PowerSharp bar and chain setup anyway. It is a 36v platform using two 18v batteries. Milwaukee makes some of the best batteries out there (in my opinion), Payed almost $400 CAD for the two 8.0ah high output Milwaukee batteries. It was almost a little to expensive, but since I can use the batteries on other Milwaukee tools as well, I figured that it would be worth it to just buy the best batteries I could.
I forgot to mention in the video, that yellow housing with the grindstone is for mounting on the end of the chainsaw bar. Then the grindstone is pushed into the end of the chain for about 3-5 seconds and the chain should be sharp again. I have not had to try this yet.
I was able to cut about three quarters of that spruce tree on about half a charge. Overall I have really enjoyed this chainsaw. It lasts way longer than both the Dewalt and Greenworks 80v (4.0ah) that I have already tried. It will go for about 10 min non stop then it is overheated and will take a bit to cool down again. But that is as long as the Dewalt and Greenworks saw lasted. Dewalt lasting a little longer that Greenworks.
After the 10 min of working non stop if your willing to coaxes it along stopping for a bit every few minutes it will just keep going. like I mentioned in the video, I did about half a cord of dry elm a few weeks ago with this method on one battery charge. And the good thing was I wasn’t completely exhausted after that.
The bar and chain made a huge difference on the greenworks. The makita might have come with an oem oregon bar and chain. I don’t know.
What I do know is dewalt used the higher quality parts on then greenworks did on theirs. Otherwise, I am not sure they aren’t the same electronics and motor. And by the time you put the higher quality parts on the greenworks, it may make more sense to get the dewalt. 
