Yeah I just used what I could find laying around.
I want to build a dug out canoe. much longer and similar to the original but this should work for what I am trying to prove.
I am trying to upload a video. we took it to the lake today and It worked.
I would say we traveled about 8 mph if I had to guess. I am really glad I upgraded to the 420 cc engine I am pretty sure the other would never have been able to push the boat. It still needs some work. I will try to upload a video when I can.
Google FAO fishing boats.
Plans for easily driven long narrow boats of various sizes. Lumber or plywood and designed to be amateur built. All complete and free.
I just want you to know you do not need to go that fast when trolling for Walleye. A 1/8th of that speed would be just right. Congrads. well done. That boat scoots right along.
Bob
That johnboat is really going at a good clip, looks like 5 knots give or take.
Good Morning Jakob .
Job well done 
Iâm with Wayne too, but Iâm a little jealous of your water ride. 
Is the long prop shaft for running in shallow water? If so, does the shaft have some kind of skeg near the prop to keep it from digging into the bottom. Now you are making me think about a charcoal powered jet drive. Nice work.
that is the idea. there are actually some around here commercially made. they call them mud buggies. I havenât put the log jumper on it yet. with this prop system you can run the prop in any depth of water the boat will float in. actually yesterday we floated into a mud flat the boat actually bottomed out so Jesse had to take a swim and pull it into deeper water, but before it bottomed out. we were running the prop an inch under water.
Ok so a lot has happened since i last posted. We finished the drive system and dad painted everything while i was at work the other day. then we have spent three days trying to get this machine to run again with little success. Day one we went through two spark plugs they started arcing down in the plug instead of jumping the plug. the engine wouldnât even run on ether. By the time we fixed that we had used up all the char we had with us so we switched over to gasoline and tested the drive unit which worked very well. yesterday dad went to try to start it (I was out driving the ice truck) And it started doing the same thing intermittent firing. I was close to a harbor freight so i went and bought a brand new engine. It was actually the last day of a parking lot sale so it was $50 off. this morning i put the new engine on and we still couldnât get it to run. After a while we noticed that when we put a blower on it and got it hot and immediately tried to start it we usually could, If we would spray a bunch of water in the intake of the gasifier. it would run for a few second then die. So we started thinking that maybe the gasifier isnât getting hot enough to crack the water under engine vacuum. I thought that maybe if i put a restriction in it it would heat up the gasifier just like it does on a wood system. I called Don Manes and he confirmed that idea. I did not haver a restriction at all so I was running a full 7 inch pipe firetube wide open. I found a big roller wheel that came off of a skid steer track system that had a 3 inch diameter hole in the middle. I welded it to the plate that I cut out of the end of the firetube plate and laid it down on the grate and sealed the edge with ash. I poured the charcoal back in and it still wouldnât run. I called Steve Unruh. He gave me two pointers, one my charcoal is all soft wood so it might be burning up really fast and turning into co2 especially since my air nozzles are so big. So I emptied the gasifier again and turned the 8 mm holes into 4-6mm holes in my nozzles by welding the end partially closed I imagine it is going to be hard on my nozzles and they will probably wear faster but at this point i just want it to work well. After that i poured the charcoal back in and re-lit the gasifier and got it hot with a good flare. it didnât turn over 3 times before it started. 
I then shut it down and reinstalled my filter ( I had taken it out of the system to make sure it wasnât to clogged up and that was my problem) after that it took a little more to get it running again but it was obviously working better. I ran it as long as i dared so i wouldnât start melting stuff because my cooling tube isnât running in the water.
I believe what was happening is what steve and i discussed. It was in heater mode. there was too much air entering the gasifier so it was making co2instead of co. The only way we had it running before was on better charcoal which wasnât as much of a problem and when we pumped a bunch of water in there and made h2. when the fire cooled off enough from the water it just started sucking water into the engine and it would die.
this is the restriction, Videos are still uploading .
Looking good Jakob, and Billy. Glad you all figured it out about the differance between soft and hard charcoal. Do you remember how your truck ran not so good on my poplar wood and you had to mix in hard cherry wood? I always mixed both together when I drove my wood burner truck. The Lesson learned back then and now on a charcoal gasifier. More of the 75% under your belt. It does depend on what kind of charcoal you are using and how the charcoal gasifier is set up for what kind of wood we are using. This was some great learning and teaching out of your ADAP Tech Projects School for us all.
Good job Professors Don M. and Steve U. for being a part of this schooling for us all.
Bob
Add in Tone too.
According to JacobN. it was Tone who gave him the air nozzles smaller ID calculations.
S.U.
So we found another problem.
the sock I was using for a filter was getting sucked up into the gas outlet pipe and making it very hard for the gasto reach the engine. now that I have replaced the sock filter with a small hay filter in starts and runs very well.
We are heading out tomorrow morning to show it at a missions conference in PA.
there are more videos around but I have been on the ice truck since 2:30 this morning so they will have to wait. I just figured I would let everyone know that before we packed it up for travel it was running great, and if you follow the procedure right it usually takes less than two revolutions for the engine to start.
I think another good filter media would be like Hoghair furnace filter media. The stuff that looks like a scotch-brite pad.
They make washable variants of Hoghair media so it would be pretty serviceable. But they might not be able to find that in remote locations where youâd be on Mission helping make these. Iâd maybe layer up hay and then pine straw or another finer media, charcoal gasifier ash is aggressive and could scratch the cylinder lining.
When I ran a sack filter I made an internal bag out of window screen to help hold it open better. I bet just packing a sack with hay would work just as well.
Edit: A few other agricultural media you could use with the hay could be flax tow, sisal fiber(usually from agave), Jute fiber, sheepâs wool. Some WW2 gasifiers used a lot of Sisal as the fine filter media, at least in the oneâs Iâve seen where they actually described the contents.
Sisal Twine is baling twine used in baling hay. I see piles of this around here. I wounder if this could be used in a filter for the filter media. Wash it down real good then put hay on top of it. It does break down if left out in the sun light.
Bob
Maybe as a replacement for hay, but you can also get the fibers in bulk amounts for cheap and itâs much finer.
For the twine Iâd chop it up into 6" lengths like hay bale hay. Itâll stuff better and wonât leave big gaps like a birdâs nest of twine would.
It should be easy to get in South America as well, Brazil is a big exporter of it.
Iâve been thinking of experimenting with cut grass, mom got an electric push mower with a catch bag for going around the house.
What are you guys using for final filters there is still some soot making it through the hay?
Cody, Bob, that is not a bad idea I will have to try that out.
