Hi Pepi,
Sorry for the late response, work got busy. Looks like a good idea. I think i will try it again, if i have problems, i will build what you have suggested.
Thanks Peter
Hi Pepi,
Sorry for the late response, work got busy. Looks like a good idea. I think i will try it again, if i have problems, i will build what you have suggested.
Thanks Peter
Don
I used the pipe caps for Dan’s and filled the center with rope seal and it worked fine; no leaks and spins the shaker just fine. I did need to weld a washer on each side of the caps to keep the shaker rod in the correct spot. I left the end so a pulley could be hooked up to it and can be powered by a motor. The end of the rod under the grate - I put a piece of steel that hits the grate when the rod is spun.
Hi Don,
Thanks for the information & drawing.
Peter
Hello, I said I’d get back in a couple of days on the RTV seal. Well, it’s 8 days and I took it apart. See for yourself what the RTV looked like. I would not use it for this application. Pepe
Pepe,
Thanks for trying, I am going to make a removable tube cover for the handle. I have made all of the modifications to the unit & going to see if i can make decent gas enough to light a flare. Once it flares correctly, it will be leaving here! Need to concentrate on my WK gasser. Do you think I should turn my grate upside down for testing purposes? Keep in mind that the grate is only 2in. wider than the bell.
Peter
Hey there Pepe,
I don’t think it was designed to take apart; just use it with the pipe caps tightened and the grate rod turning not sliding, at least that is the way I understood it. If it hardens over time in there, that is ok too. That is why the rod is greased.
Don M
Hi Don, Turning is surely the way to go with this if you use it. More curing time needed IMO. I’ve had good luck so far with my rotating grate, but it’s a bit cumbersome to operate, and until I get more time, lol, I’ll be rotating.
Pepe