Hi Carl, Looks like it is about ready to go! A suggestion is to move the air mixing valve closer to the carburator. Right now you need to remove about two feet or so of gas from the fuel line before the O2/chargas mixture gets into the engine. If it is too rich, you will need to add more O2 and it will take quite a few turns of the engine to see if that gas mixture is OK…or not. What I’m trying to say is by placing the O2 inlet closer to the carb, you will have quicker feed back on whether the O2/gas mixture is correct.
Make sense?
Gary in PA
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Bruce,
Thanks for the additional photo. I may have to try the spiral pipe if I do a 6 inch cyclone.
I got the electrical parts hooked up for my generator today, and finished up the EGR.
I welded on a stub of 1" tube to the muffler, cut slits in some flexible exhaust hose, and then clamped it on to the muffler tube with a hose clamp.
I drilled a bunch of holes for the exhaust to vent out, and the other end goes to a valve on the bottom of the reactor.
I got it up and running, and it really starts pretty well. Takes a minute or two of cranking to get the gas through all the lines - but it flared pretty much right away. I have been keeping the charcoal sealed up, so I think it has dried out now.
I put the pull starter back on, as the ratchet made bad noises - I think the jarring was bumping the latching mechanism over to reverse. Once I got a flare, it only took 2 pulls to get the engine to start. Gary: I get what you say about having better fine control with the air valve closer, but the response seems adequate, and I like not having the extra weight hanging on my carb. I ran it for 0.4 hours today, and played around a little bit with the valve settings. It seemed to rev up and down a bit every few minutes, and I would have to adjust the valves to keep it running smooth. Not sure what that means.
So, the engine seems to be more or less functional, the gasifier is working beautifully, but the alternator… well, all it does is turn. I was using a 1:1 pulley ratio, so it should have been spinning at about 2100-2500 rpm. I might try it again tomorrow with a larger pulley, and see if that fixes it.
This is the alternator I ordered. I am confused by the “Polarity: Negative” I think I may have hooked it up backwards! I saw a red insulator on the output stud and assumed that it must be positive - but the case is from a 12 volt alternator, they just swapped in a different regulator to make it function for 24 volts. I hope I didnt cook it.
Well, I will try reversing it tomorrow and see if that does it.
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I installed a Underwood welder on my 1990 Bronco which has a 120 amp alternator.
It will not generate until the motor is blipped to about 3000 rpm.
After “energized” it remains generating even at 700 rpm idle speed.
I would try speeding it up before reversing polarity as that may hurt it.
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Ditto what Michael said. The key words are: “one wire self energizing” it needs to turn faster until it energizes, your polarity is probably right. If you are lucky Steve is reading the thread and will chime in… also when the alternator is loading down the motor some of those engine blips should go away…
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I will try it today with a bigger pulley and not reverse the hook-up polarity. I really wish the manufacturer had included some sort of spec sheet with this unit that would clearly indicate polarity, cut-in RPMs, etc. Well, I will give it a try and report back.
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Most car alt. won’t start charging until 1000rpms or more,depending on the winding’s, max charge could be 5000rpms. That is why most alternative energy chargers are pm motors, or rewound alternators to produce 3 phase ac rectified to dc.These start charging at much lower rpms. I just rewired a LG front load washer motor, and can get 5-10volts turning by hand, 35volts with a cordless drill.
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What is the amp. output when you crank it by hand. I bet it gets tirering the higher the amps. go. What you planning to use it on.
Bob
NO-NO ORCarl!!!
DO NOT CONNECT IT UP WITH THE INSULATED POST TO BATTERY NEGATIVE!
Read the product lower page installations descriptions and it IS made for Positive output/Negative grounded systems. You WILL at hook up fry the output diodes as soon as you hook it up backwards.
That “NEGATIVE OUTPUT STUD” in the description is a misprint.
In the three Q&A answers it says this should kick in and start charging at ~800 alternator RPM. Says IF not, “probably a bad internal voltage regulator”.
My experiences have been if the claw pole rotor has become demagnetized the first starting up may have to be mondo RPM spun up to get it working and remagnatized.
To bypass the voltage regulator for testing with the unit spun up you ground out to the case out with a metal screw driver through the “D” shaped hole in the back from a protruding tab off of the internal voltage regulator. Practice feeling for this with the system off-not running before doing this. Tab is only ~1/4-3/8" inside the case opening. Easy to slip past this tab inserting too far inside.
S.U.
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Hi Bob, I am using it for hydro power, on a modified Banki turbine I 'm almost done building. Best guess amps is 15amps running with a drill.
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Carl, here is a good article on alt.;ENGINE HORSEPOWER REQUIRED FOR ALTERNATORS
For every 23 AMPS of alternator output about one horsepower is required. FOR EXAMPLE: A 12 volt,115 AMP alternator requires 5 horsepower. (115 divided by 23 = 5 horsepower). A 24 volt unit requires twice the horsepower.
ALTERNATORS ARE NOT BATTERY CHARGERS
Alternators are designed to supply current for the accessory load and maintain the charge of the battery. Most alternators can safely charge at only two-thirds of their maximum rated output. When trying to recharge a dead battery, the alternator will charge at maximum output for extended periods of time causing the alternator to overheat. High heat destroys transistors, diodes and windings.
ONE-WIRE ALTERNATORS CAN NOT BE USED WITH BATTERY ISOLATORS
One-wire alternators, sometimes referred to as self-exciting alternators, require battery voltage at the output terminal in order to charge. Since battery isolators eliminate the battery voltage to the alternator, you must use a battery isolator with an ignition excite capability or modifications must be made to the alternator to allow ignition excitation.
ALTERNATORS MUST TURN THE PROPER RPM IN ORDER TO FUNCTION
Just because the alternator looks like it’s turning, doesn’t mean it’s turning fast enough to charge. Most alternators do not start charging until they reach 1,000 RPM alternator shaft speed. 5,000 RPM alternator shaft speed is normally required to reach maximum output. If you’re not sure what the alternator shaft speed is, you can determine this with the pulley ratio. Measure the diameter of the crank shaft or drive pulley and the alternator pulley. Divide the crank shaft pulley diameter by the alternator pulley diameter. This figure would be the engine-to-alternator RPM ratio. A normal ratio would be 2.5 to 1. For example, let’s say we have a 7 inch diameter crank shaft pulley and a 2.75 inch alternator pulley. We would divide 7 inches by 2.75 which equals 2.54 to 1. If the engine was turning 1,000 RPM we would multiply 1,000 by 2.54 which would give us 2,540 alternator RPM.
Again, with today’s high amperage alternators, belt condition and tension are critical in proper alternator performance.
ALTERNATORS WILL CHARGE WHEN TURNING IN EITHER DIRECTION
NEVER DISCONNECT THE BATTERY CABLE WHEN THE ALTERNATOR IS CHARGING
A common practice with the old generator system was to disconnect the battery cable while the engine was running to see if the generator was working. If this procedure is done on today’s transistorized alternator systems, severe damage to the internal components of the alternator usually will be the end result.
This includes using a battery selector switch while the engine is running.
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One issue with turning the alternator the other direction is that the fan is turning the wrong direction. Assuming that the fan is directional. It will still blow but not as much.
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Luckily I applied logic, and did not attempt to reverse the polarity. I figured if I had screwed up on my first try, then trying the higher RPM with a larger pulley would not make it any worse - whereas if I had it right, then switching it would certainly ruin it at either RPM. Thanks for the input though, I really appreciate it. I was thinking this morning that I needed an Unruh-Signal, that would project a silhouette of an alternator onto the dreary, low-hanging clouds.
I ran into serious trouble getting my engine started today though, and I had some choice words after pulling the recoil start for the better part of an hour. After a cool off period (for me and the gasifier both) I tore it all down, and found that my filter was soaked. I had not checked it before I started - and yesterday I ran the engine for probably about half an hour. The metal sides of my filter must have condensed out all the moisture that was making it through my reactor. The humidity today was 94%. The flare was much harder to get going today, which I should have investigated more.
That said, I did manage to get the engine to shudder to life a couple of times, or I would have given up pulling that @#&*ing cord a long time sooner. On one abortive run, I did see the power meter flicker to life, so I think once I get my gas dry, I should be in business. The alternator does add quite a bit of drag to the engine, so I might have to think about a mechanism to apply tension to my belt after the engine is started.
Al, thanks for the good info on Alternators. Using them to charge batteries is a bit new to me, so I am learning as I go. My bank of batteries is fairly modest, 225 Ah at 24v. Therefore I dont intend to charge them at more than 30 amps. How well i will be able to control the charging rate by throttling the engine remains a mystery. So far my attempts to change the RPM of my engine have been … inconclusive. I do have a tach, though, so I can at least measure what I am producing - and I will also then know what my alternator RPM is. It feels like I am still quite a ways from a reliable and robust system for DC charging, but i think i am closing in on it.
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Install a 1/4” ball valve as close to the intake valve as possible so you can give a shot of starting fluid or gasoline.
This will save the starter rope and improve your attitude.
Nice build
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If it doesn’t start after the third pull, stop pulling and start thinking !
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Hi back ORCarl,
I do not normally follow charcoal efforts with my only fuel wood source as Doug Fir - a terrible charcoal maker. Your grape vine trimmings as others have used will be your success making fuel charcoal.
I do like exchanging with you as you understand living in-the-cloud with 94% humidity. What is possible for other like open air cloths drying inside is crazy make-house-sickening for us. Molds. Molds. Molds.
I really, really like my now three different sized Honda overhead cam small engines.
Woodgas trialing on a 5500 watt B&S ac generator I once finally separated my collar bone hours pull/cranking needing weeks to heal back up. I then made up fling belt electric starter for it out of a riding lawn mower deck pulley and a DC permanent magnet chainsaw motor (same as in the little PowerWinches). Fling-belt as it had no clutch so after engine starting it was bump off the belt and it would fling-away. Groan. Video of me doing this can-do starting system. Couple of fellows here shop visiting say they saw me demoing this. Using the durable PM motor I could then continuously crank as long as the battery lasted adjusting in things. Establishing settings. Sorting out problems.
Your Delco SI system could be modified to and external turn-on/turn-off voltage regulator. Void your supplier warranty for sure. These Delco SI alternators could, and have been built up as 6 and 8 volt positive or negative grounded; and well as 12 and 24 volt. Very flexible. But newer unit designs are much more input/output efficient and charging abuse durable.
Use what you got. Only after it is toast, move on, learning. Idealizing shipping in bits and pieces never get things done and you experienced, learned-forward. Only Amazon, E-Bay and others learn your pocket book that way.
Regards
tree-farmer Steve unruh
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Hi Carl , welcome along to a day in a life of a charcoal powered engine , if i may just say that i admire the skilled thinking of using a ratchet drive for starting the engine , but in all the engine starts on a variety of different makes of engine and sizes i have never really had a problem with just an extension bar and socket straight into a cordless drill , give it a go i think you should be alright .
Dave
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Hi Carl, go here for pics of my hydro projecthttp://forum.driveonwood.com/t/micro-hydro-setups/2889/16