And here’s some ideas i had before in an attempt to improve the bag filter type that has become popular around here, the idea is to mount it horizontal and have the filter turnable inside the housing to avoid soot build-up on top.
This could be done with a hand crank, or automatically.
The seals i think could be made of “graphite string” available for water pumps.
And ofcourse i have to over-complicate things, this is what i thought about building, when I decided to make a fabric/cloth filter.
The windshield wiper motor could be controlled by a adjustable under-pressure switch, or just by a intermittent wiper-controller.
This i think should slowly turning the filter, to dump the soot-caking.
Thank you Göran,
The first pictures are about as I thought too, it seems to be a little easier to make and get tight than the other idea you have, however, that bag is easier to make in the second picture, Hmm.
I got home some fiberglass fabric, so thinking about what to do, I think Tilman had a good idea with the pipes, thought I would make 4 “pieces that go through a lid to the fabric tube attachment, and then 2” pipe pieces at the bottom on the fabric tube, with rebar in between, which keeps the tube pieces apart?.
Why would the gas come back up through the pipes instead of the area around them? Unless I misunderstand what I’m seeing then you will need to drill out a plate to seal that area, along the lines of a fire tube boiler and extend the bottom of the container down as more of a drop box. It would be good to have a way to bleed the heat out from around those tubes as well.
I have a little hard to explain I think, I hope it is better in this picture.
Thought the gengas may go down into a steel pipe to the bottom, before it goes in through the filter pipes, and has a regular oil barrel lid that I can remove and blow clean the filter pipes.
Looks a lot like the bag house filter that @Patrick1 made, but also like Vesa has as well. Very interesting concept, I just wonder how it could be compacted smaller, take up less bed space in the truck…
I see now the plate with the yellow arrow. This is a good design. I may build something similar but I will make a bottom plate. After all when you are drilling out the top plate, another could be done at the same time. I would like to see if venting the hot air around those tubes out would add much cooling of gas.
This could be made with a square container as well Marcus and then maybe fit into an area better. You guys all like to keep your beds intact. I’d probably make a square one and cut it into the side of the bed. That way it would be partially in the air stream for cooling and and scoop could be added to the side of the box to push hot air out a vent.
I am glad that some of you are just as concerned with maintenance cleaning as filtration efficiency.
Make gravity your friend, cleaning. That means vertical pleats, vertical socks, vertical bags. With a great empty capture space below.
One of the differences between the big tank/can filled all flow through mass media filters; and a membrane filters, is the first is forgiving of operator errors.
Membrane filter are very operator sensitive to being damaged. You need more operator education. And adherence to filter preserving procedures. No early wet gas. No heavy foot ignoring temperatures and pressure differential gauges.
Regards
Steve unruh
Thank you Steve for the information on hot filters. I have decided not to go this route on my next build.
Wet gases, heavy foot, ignoring temperatures, and pressure differently gauges, guilty on all four counts. Lol.
I see why the WK complete gasification system that Wayne perfected is for us multiple users in driving styles.
Now I am not saying Wayne has a heavy foot and ignores his gauges. I just see this system is more forgiving than others systems that’s all.
Bob
No, I see that I am not allowed to run in gas that has a lower temperature than the dew point, so I thought to let the gas be around 100 degrees c (212f) before I run it in, and then my fabric goes to 550 degrees c (1022f) , but there are fabrics that go higher, but thought to try this.
They drove trucks of over 10 liters for over 32000km, no condensation or clogging of the fabric had taken place.
Heavy foot does not seem to be a problem, if you do not get a lot of charcoal into the filter.
Jan the heavy foot problem was reported by both Dutch John and S.E. Werner due to hot char embers being force drawn through on “some” systems configurations; under some conditions; then igniting the soot cakes on the filter membrane surfaces.
Sure. Sure. Everything perfect and this should not be able to happen.
When is everything perfect once in service and year around hard used, eh?
VesaM mentions this possibility happening too.
S.U.
No, you’re so right, the test I’m writing about has a small cyclone before the filter, and after that they never had any such problems.
But of course if you leave all service alone, nothing works.
I bought some iron today for the filter, how much space under the filter is needed for the ash, and how much above the filter for the gas?
Should I put in a middle iron as well that holds the fabric apart better, or should it be able to flex a lot?
Hi Jan , if you want to get more surface area I would put 2 pipes in to hold the welding blanket apart the gases will enter through the filter on both sides and into 2 pipes that have holes drilled down the sides of the pipes. The pipes will be protruding out one side of the end of the filter metal framing. I would leave a foot below the filter. Is it going to go into a barrel?
Bob
If I do this, a plate that guides the gas down to the bottom and a fairly large space under the filter cartridges,
Shouldn’t it slow down the gas so that if it comes with charcoal pieces, they will remain on the bottom?
That looking good Jan, a shield as you suggest to direct the gas downwards should work great, and save the cloth from get direct “hit” by hot gas, charcoal pieces. And as you say, you get a drop-box in the bottom, where charcoal pieces stay.
