I take it you are not planning on hauling anything in the back bed of the truck where you have to put down the tail gate. Why not go 1/2 down on both sides of the bed.
Bob
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I don’t ever really haul anything that high in the truck. This is also a temporary cooling rail. I’ll eventually go WK Overkill with gas cooling and recycle this one.
Another way I could go about it is flip it around, then make 180 degree bend back to the cab and that would double my tubes to 32 feet. Since this truck has a nice rake angle to it, springs don’t even feel broken in even after now 100,000 miles, any condensation would pour down the return tubes to the filter/condensate tank.
Edit: But we all know what Temporary/Testing Purposes always turns to.
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Cody,
I was looking back at photo of the grate in your gasifier. Aren’t you going to need a metal ring or something to keep the reaction zone away from the sides of the barrel?
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I think the flow will be fairly diagonal, in the Pegasus book where they suggested a Diagonal Downdraft as a compromise alternative to a Cross Draft the charts show a diagonal zone. My exit pipe protrudes inside a few inches and I think that will help keep heat away. I haven’t done a test burn yet but once I get it flared up and running I’ll check the barrel with my thermometer gun.
It’s about 12 inches from the nozzle to the exit pipe, I remember with my double flute attempt I had about as much and my gas temps were never terribly high, maybe 200°F when my Mazda pulled on it. That’s when the rubber couplers failed because I didn’t have them downstream enough for the gas to be sufficiently cooled.
I can always make an extra big restriction to form an ash cone if need be. Part of a car rim or something resting on the grate.
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Here’s the Pegasus drawings, now the book is called Drive On Wood in the library.
My nozzle doesn’t point downwards, so I think my zone will probably go to the center and then make it’s way down. I can always tweak this if need be. But I also won’t use more than maybe 10% blended wood, or I’ll just use moistened charcoal.
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And a lot of directly stated wisdoms in the text words in the Pegasus book.
The last two complete paragraphs on that page 83 have much obvious experienced based reasoning’s on downdraft limitations. Expanding on the downdraft advantages reasons stated on page 82.
Worth expanding just here to read.
Well worth translating.
S.U.
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I think for a KISS charcoal gasifier in a barrel this is the best way to go. I wood put a clean out hatch below the grate and nozzle on the nozzle side for easy clean outs. With a change able nozzle. I have been wanting to build one for some time now. Keep us posted Cody.
Bob
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Finally got a straightforward answer on what INJ A and INJ B fuses go to. They split the fuses to each side of the engine. But this makes almost no sense considering it runs the Spider central port injection, maybe it controls the valves at the ends of the injector?
I had thought Inj A was the injector pump and Inj B was for the valves that dictate which cylinder gets sprayed.
Edit: forgot to post the Fuse Taps that I found. They’ll only sell one per customer per week on Amazon. Placed it on Fuel Pump for now and I’ll use my kludged fuse taps that I made for the Injector fuses.
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Right now I’m testing this silicon carbide tube, if I find any issues I already have a reducer bushing to put in a Matt style Removable From Outside type nozzle. ID wouldn’t change much, from 1" to 3/4" ID for the nozzle tip. I’m hoping the silicon carbide will be fine.
I’m thinking of cutting a slit into the bed rail up front, so I can slip 2" gas pipes in. I tried snaking 2" PVC from under and up to the headboard of the bed but there’s too much stuff in the way to come in diagonally. Only part visible would be the PVC elbow.
Either way I’ll have to cut a hole, or cut a slit. I think cutting out a slit would save me the headache of lining everything up perfectly and wondering if everything is fastened down properly.
When I rebuild the cooling rail I’m going after a Bobmac school of thought, this way the gas running to the engine won’t be close to the gas going to the rails. I think Bob’s method also promotes the gas to split to either side more evenly and that cold air on the top of the cab really kicks along getting the gas down to ambient.
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I have the kill switches re-wired! Goofed on the first hole but that’s okay. From left to right is Fuel Pump, Injector A, Injector B. I switch B off and basically nothing happens, maybe it’s the pressure regulator? Can’t tell. Even RPM stays the same.
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Asked for a week off, I can finally get the Sierra finished.
Got the cooling rail attached to the gasifier and I saw this party pooper staring at me.
Don’t weld at 8pm guys you’ll miss this kind of stuff. Now I need to go over the whole thing.
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Looks like maybe you are stick welding,Though not sure my junk noot book has blurry pictures.Looks like you making good progress.
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I weld with flux core. I can’t ever seem to stick weld and I can’t afford shielding gas.
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No worries
If you don’t burn through now and then your probably not getting good penetration.
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OK thanks cody, like mike gib said, no problems with flux core welding, they might even work better outside welding in the windy days.I never tryed flux core mig, though i welded with stick welder lots of years, I allways like welding with 6011 stick rod, because it is good rusty metal rod and hardly have any flux puddles.Good penitration rod 6011.and easy too weld with.
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My issue with stick is I can’t get them to strike consistently. I know it’s all technique but I can’t be bothered when I have the Lazy Man’s stick. Flux Core is really a stick welding hot glue gun for metal. I think once I repair my dad’s old Marquette I won’t have much issues. Lots of re insulating the leads will need to be done and a new 240v plug.
It’s the old style Marquette where you change the amps by moving the Hot lead to another socket like a guitar amp.
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You allso might want too pull the cover and look inside the welder, and see if it has a big capacitor, i had one like that welder , it was a fourney stick machine, and the cap wore out, that would make the rod more likely too stick when striking too. The capasitor on my welder was about the size of your whole hand and 2" thick,or little smaller.I think the voltage was low enough the cap was not too dangerous.I think it was a DC only stick welder.
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I wouldn’t put too much time or effort into that old welder Cody. It is a transformer type machine and you cannot fine tune the amperage on it. Newer stick machines or multi-function inverter types have what they call hot start technology to help prevent rod sticking when you strike an arc. Cleaning your material and taking the time to find the ideal heat setting is key to any type of welding but most people just want to brush off the loose rust and if an arc can be struck they are satisfied to fight the weld. It will usually get the best of them.
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