Alright, I put in the 45 degree elbow. Couldn’t find a Street style so also had to use a Close Nipple. Nozzle tip is probably about 7 inches from the wall.
One thing I noticed when I pulled out the nozzle is the Hexoloy felt weird on one side. Like it had stubble. @tcholton717 have you ever noticed that?
Or @d100f
I have never removed mine. Visual inspection reveals nothing unusual. Dave has a lot more hours on his though.
It still looks fine, it could just be bits of carbon stuck to the outside.
Yes that stubble is the beginning of glass formation run it a while longer and you will end up with it welded ono the outter of the Hexoloy just be carful when trying t
Oh and i forgot … congrats on your first bunch of flare off’s you have no idea how long i been waiting to see this project completed glad to see its working out real good so far , cant wait to see and hear the motor running .
Dave
It doesn’t look quite like that, just has some tiny spatter on it but it could be glass formation.
Hey Cody a quick Question the photo’s you put up during building this unit looking down and showing a cross down draft set up with a BBQ grill between the inlet and outlet pipe and below is a circular plate with a hole / reduction ? what’s the thinking behind that is it a ash clean out port below there or what ? .
On the Hexoloy piece you have it going over a steel nipple , i have not gone that way just incase of expansion of the steel being higher i am not sure of the rates of each piece , mine has been inside of the steel nipple since day one and has worked fine ,maybe i am overly thinking things .
Dave
Oh that little plate is from using a hole saw. I just didn’t shake it out 
. Unless you mean the stand I welded to the grill to hold it up. That’s from a 100lb Propane tank. I don’t think gas will pass through it.
Also the Hexoloy is pressed inside a 1.25" NPT pipe, not over. The ID of the Hexoloy is roughly 1" and the OD was a very press tight fit for the 1.25" pipe. Used my 12 ton press to evenly get it in there.
Also I have since reinforced the bbq grill with rebar welded over to both stiffen it and hold up to any heat.
Circled in green is what’s holding up the grate.
It’s one of these ends that guards the valve for the 100lb tanks. They don’t use this style anymore from what I understand.
Also I’ve just yesterday added a Close Nipple and 45 degree elbow pointing the nozzle downwards.
How long you think the elbow will last with out the hexoloy, and what may i ask is hexoloy, ware too buy hexoloy tube??THANKS For info CODY.
I wouldn’t just use the elbow as the nozzle. I’d probably take two close sized pipes and press them into each other to make it thicker. And use water drip. I’m going to use moistened charcoal for starters and put in a drip if I have to.
Also that Number 76 bushing is what I used. For me it was a tight press fit with 1&1/4" Pipe nipple with some filing out the weld seam in the pipe.
Is the elbow standard steel elbow or high temp material elbow.,Sorry about all the questains,I trying too get extra charco gasifier plan,INFO. THANKS IS that number 76 bushing on your big truck gasifier OR other size gasifier.THANKS
Just a regular plumbing elbow. For this charcoal gasifier on the Sierra I’m using that Number 76 bushing.
THANKS for posting the hexoloy, it has a very interesting decription, more than enough info on hexoloy just from that ebay page, i saved it in my cart.
Ok Thanks,regular plumming , precision press fit hexoloy whare able.ok thanks Cody i make sure the hexoloy bushing is pressed into steel ,not pressed over outside of steel, So it dont crack the hexoloy from metal exspabtion.
Some guys say it’ll just sit inside a 1" malleable iron coupler but I didn’t have any luck. Maybe the ones I got were thicker? I just filed out the weld seam inside a 1.25" steel pipe nipple and pressed it in. Wasn’t a lot of effort I think a plain arbor press would do it, I just wanted to make sure it went in straight so it wouldn’t break.
Whatever you put that Hexoloy piece in, make sure it’s inside the steel sleeve not outside because the steel expands at a different rate.
Got it plumbed up for rough testing. Can’t seem to get the AFR totally dialed in.
Maybe this gasifier isn’t making potent enough gas.
I’ve got it running enough to shut off the fuel pump. As soon as I cut off INJ-A fused location it shuts all the way down.
I have Fuel pump, INJ-B turned off. Scratching my head at this one.
Can’t tell if it’s just running too lean to get going on char gas, or if turning off INJ-A also turns off the spark.
I don’t want to leave any Injector fuses on and risk burning up my injectors. This truck might not be capable for woodgas and I can’t afford to sink any more time or money into the Sierra when I know the Mazda should be able to take to this gasifier.
When I mean rough testing, I mean instead of gluing the PVC together I used duct tape to seal it off.
I was using the butterfly from the Mazda, and no matter how incrementally I changed it, if I turned off INJ-A the engine died. I’m wondering if the computer shuts off spark if it’s detecting an error with the fuel system.
Does the computer set a code?
Only one time when I had the mixing valve open just a little too much and had the pump turned off, Bank 1 and 2 Lean.
After that it didn’t throw any codes.
I was checking fuel trim and timing advance. At idle it was about 18 degrees.
I don’t have test lights to tell if the spark was still running after turning off INJ-A, but when I did shut it off I didn’t even get a sputter or cough from the woodgas.
So it’s either ridiculously undersized or the computer has some kind of injector kill fail-safes.
