i agree , and even if you had a mpfi intake, i dont think the spider injection is timed too work with one of them mpfi intake manifolds, though i could be wrong about the timeing on the 6 injectore/ Gm and one of there less desirable ideas,
The wiring harness is the same, on the Spider injector it only has one pump but the little valves on the end of each tip is timed by the computer. The reason why GM used the spider injectors for so long is because it only needed like 20 or 25lbs of fuel pressure to run so the fuel pumps last a long long time. All that’s going to the harness is a signal voltage to open up each injector. Lots of guys do this swap so they can supercharge or turbocharge the 4.3 in their Silverado, Sierra, or S10.
The spindle injectors, they all open at the same time, don’t they
Spider injector? I don’t think so. Neither does the MPFI kit.
OK thanks cody i Have been unsure on that ? for long time, so would you have a link too the kit from spider injection too MPFI 4.3 chevy, or is the kit too hard too find on google/ebay.
Gotta match the years with your vehicle or depending on how your wiring harness looks.
Some of the older Mercruisers were TBI before they went to MPFI.
Do you know how it works Cody, I thought it was just a solenoid.
There are only 2 wires into it, and 6 holes out for petrol.
I think your model is different from my 2011, I drive a 3rd Generation Sierra.
Does your connecting harness only have the two wires? I think mine has 8 or 9.
Ok, then I see, yes I only have 2 connections.
1 Like
I just talked to one of the Master Technicians at work.
Yours is the Poppet Valve type, mine is a Non Poppet. It actually has 6 individual injectors instead of a Central injector.
I also found out my INJ-A fuse runs to my ignition.
So the build may still be on.
He gave me a diagram that leads him to believe Fuse 4 in my truck will shut down the injectors.
My fuel system is labelled a Central Sequential Fuel Injection System or SFI, but after the fuel pressure issues of the old Poppet Valve types they redesigned them to run like a standard set of MPFI injectors. What used to be the one Injector in the old Spider became basically the central port of the fuel rail.
Downsides to my design is it still uses plastic tubes, so still fragile.
1 Like
Ok but then you can switch to a real injection, but it doesn’t work on mine.
The Mercruisers intake you would have is a Throttle Body Injector
Tested my coworkers theory.
Tried to start with the fuel pump and my original injector switch shut off, sprayed some bark juice in there. No dice just kept cranking
Swapped my Fuse Taps to #4 Labelled ENG.
Started right up and then died when it ran out of ether.
3 Likes
Sounds good , maybe you get it working, once you get the truck wiring learned. newest truck i had was 1999 dakota this year.
2 Likes
Knowing now that I’m not entirely screwed and have more 55 gallon drums, I’m going to build another Diagonal Draft with one of them. With a filling lid welded to the drum lid so it can just be held down with door springs for any burps or farts.
I do know that intake events happen with this gasifier. I had the blowoff valve in my plumbing while testing because I didn’t want to take any chances. Had two backfires happen. Once when I thought the valve was leaking in air at idle so I plugged it with a jar lid just held down with a coupler. Other time with the valve as it would be normally. Both times were from a fast throttling up and then instantly letting go of the throttle without easing down.
My blowoff valve is just one of those plastic and rubber flapper check valves, it’s almost right at the throttle body to relieve pressure as fast as possible.
I’m going to put the other gasifier on the Mazda because I need something with a smaller footprint.
3 Likes
Hi Cody, if I really hit it hard on my WK Gasifier like going up hill and stay on the foot pedel when reaching the top of the hill and let of the foot pedel fast this will some times cause a puff in the hopper. Here is what I think is happening. A small amount of air is leaking into the hopper on hard pulls 30+ WC vacuum on the rails and maybe 20 WC vacuum in the hopper. The results is fresh air inside the hopper now this can be even farther down into the char bed that is making really good gases. Vacuum goes to 0 WC and you have a puff. This is why on any gasifier that is going to be running a vehicle should have a way for gases to excape in that kind of event.
You are doing the right thing here with the spring holding down barrel lid.
Tennis Pop off valves up front under the hood too. Why take chances.
If you blow a gas line apart you are done DOW until you fix it. Ask me how I know this. Lol
It was not because I didn’t have pop off valves or a hopper lid, I forgot to tighten a hose clamp. Oops.
Bob
3 Likes
It didn’t seem to burp at the gasifier side. Lid is clamped down right now but I would have seen some sparks flying from the nozzle hole. I think the moisture still in the gas suppresses it some if it ignites at the throttle.
When I had the jar lid jammed in the rubber coupler I heard a pretty loud BANG and bits of plastic jar lid in front of the truck.
The flapper valve was fine.
Cody now you have the correct fuse sorted why not try that gasifier build on it again before building another one ?
But then i guess testing it on a know vehicle that’s already run on char gas might make more sense on the Mazda
1 Like
I’ll bench test it on the Sierra since I kept it all nearby, but not a driving test.
With the height of the gasifier it sat really high on the Sierra, but a 55 gallon drum actually sits below the cab roof.
Seeing how a 1" nozzle will do will let me see if I need to size up or keep it the same. I still have that beefy 2" nozzle end I could use.
Edit: Forgot to mention with a 55 gallon drum build I can account for more hopper volume above the nozzle. I’ll try to put the gas exit as close to the bottom as I reasonably can, and with the wider diameter of the drum I can raise the nozzle a bit less than with the narrow nozzle. Probably a 6 or 8 inch height above will suffice as opposed to the 12 inch height from the one I have built now.
Going to do a very standard fare cooling rail. Different from what I planned since I eventually want to transition to raw wood. What better design to go with than the classic WK?
Scaled down slightly for my 4.3, I’m using galvanized fence posts for now. Going to use a single 3" EMT for the center post, then all the other verticals will be 2" EMT. Horizontal rails will be the 1&5/8" Fence Post.
When I have Stainless Steel kinds of money I’ll copy more along the lines of what Bobmac did.
For the rail couplers I went to the Lowe’s and saw how much the dang 1.25" Ferncos were running just for 8 of them.
So instead I went to the O’Reilly’s and got some radiator hose that matches the OD of the pipe. I think they’ll be stronger than the Ferncos anyways since they’re braided internally.
I’m leaving space for more to expand on later but for now it’s just two straight shots of the 1&5/8" rail down the bed. I think with the older style Tree in the front it’ll be fine.
6 Likes