Maybe, i would have to check. That would certainly save the engineering problem of a hinge.
Edit: I don’t have a whole lot of room with the spare tire being there.
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I like the simplicity of this setup, utilizing a lynch pin to hold it closed. The hinge is very simple. This specific one claims to have a 600lb capacity. I find that a little dubious.
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That is very similar to what I was thinking.
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I’ve been thinking in thoose tracs some, father-in-law has a Suburban with broken “spider-injection” maybe i can buy it 
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Ill grant that that one is pretty stoutly built, but to gain real functional weight capacity on a hitch basket it needs corner ties to the frame rails, this distributes the load across the bed of the truck instead of a pin point load in the receiver hitch which by its design is meant for forward back and up down loading, not sideways pulling. Dodge commonly had a factory hitch with side attachment points for camper tie downs both my trucks have them, this would be the perfect tie in to the corners, but to the frame would be a shade better in my opinion. Then the point of failure would be the pivot location, but that only comes into play when the gasifier would be swung out, which i don’t see being all that often and definitely would not be driven that way where it would take large scale abuse
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I thinking , hot gasifier swinging out to open back hatch door to get wood out close back hatch and swinging hot gasifier back and lock into place. Now open hopper hid with smoke coming out. This has a loud the gasifier to cool down a little. You will need some kind of flexable gas outlet hose after the cooling tubes and filter on the pivot hinged side to go to engine tubing.
Note I did a load test on my Grand Cherokee Jeep off the back bumper. Mine has off road heavy duty srings added. It failed the test , to much load behind the rear wheels. By moving the load above the rear wheels it passed load test. This is fora WK Gasifier. Imberts and other gasifiers are much lighter in weight.
The swing out hinged platform would need to be a three point mounding in back I think. The swing out hind would need to be a lot stronger im my opinion. But it could be done. Maybe using a drop swing pivot wheel like on the front of a trailer hitch. Drop it down swing the platform out.
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The 2" PVC ring reinforced suction hose is strong enough for it. Smooth on the inside as well.
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I think a WK is out of the question. I don’t know the weight of a WK but I’m sure it’s way too much for even a Class 4 static mounted hitch.
Edit: maybe if you split up a lot of the components. Gasifier on the rear mount, filter on a front mount, cooler and condensate in the underbelly.
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I was coming to the same conclusion, adding chains and turnbuckles to the frame rail to triangulate the load.
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If the Spider is already bad, I would suggest trying to find a Mercruiser/Volvo Penta upper intake plenum and replacing the injection to either Common Rail Port Injection or Throttle Body(it depends on the year, 2007-2014 is Common Rail)
Even in the US, a refurbished or new spider injector easily gets to be above 500USD if not 800USD.
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I forgot to mention but after the 2007 generation came in, they completely changed the Spider injectors. They used to be one single injector with the small plastic lines and valves metered by the former distributor. The old style Spider injector system was not used in Volvo Penta/Mercruiser engines and instead kept the TBI.
After 2007, the appearances are similar but it does in fact have individual injectors like a true port injection. VP/Mercruiser still didn’t like the idea and instead opted to make a Common Rail system, which actually is 100% compatible with a standard engine computer. The injectors do require a stronger fuel pump, many change over to a Corvette fuel pump and add a fuel pressure regulator.
The biggest benefit of the marine use plenum is it’s cast iron instead of the plastic that GM went to use.
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The WK Gasifier on my truck in total is close to 500 lbs. Main lower part of the gasifier including the drop box is over 150 lbs. These WK Gasifiers are heavy units. It the turn down ratio mass built in the fire tube is what makes them heavier than other gasifiers. My one unit I was building went over the in weight for my jeep. So I’m changing the design some to lighten it up. One thing is the condensation tank being combined with the hayfilter. By putting the unit behind the back sitting area over the rear wheels helps a lot on weight distribution. Vehicle’s with the filter up front helps even more on weight distribution.
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Here’s the bottom of the gas jacket. I didn’t like losing all that height with it being the other way around like most hot water tanks, so I cut it and flipped it. Now this way I can just use a pipe nipple for an ash dump. I’ve come to like propane tank bodies because this is natural for it. Char and ashes will be more inclined to fall out the center.
Passes the water test!
I actually gained 2 inches without the unit itself being taller. The dishing on these tanks were about 4" tall.
Those 2 inches got me 2 gallons of hot hopper capacity, up to 16.54 gallons now for a rough estimate above the hearth.
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Hot hopper core is pretty much done! Much more manageable size right now. Still weighs a good bit. Just need to put in the grate on chains.
After that I need to seal up all the old ports for the gas jacket, cut out a hole for the Air In, then mosey the core into the gas jacket and burn it all in.
I cut this disc out of a 20" plate, but the hopper is out of round slightly so I welded it on as a solid disc and then cut out the center using the heat lines left from my welding.
I think that helped prevent any warping, this plate isn’t as thick as what will be used on my WK.
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My grate is a 12" trailer rim half, with angle iron for the bars. It has a generous lip but I don’t think it’ll hold onto char any more than a flat grate. Going to suspend it on chains, I’m thinking a 2" gap from the rim of the grate to the bottom of the reduction bell, that should be plenty to let it slip char. My gaps between the angles are around 3/8 to 1/2.
I’m still at work but I’ll add pictures once I’ve got it put on the gasifier core.
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You could hang a chain on each side if put a bracket in the rear box pocket to hold the chains away from the box. or a chain off of a ladder rack tube.
I’d rather pull it tight towards the frame. I’ve still got some factory holes I could put some chain hooks or Eye Bolts onto.
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I’m wondering if there’s some sketches of a better swing away carrier. I’m really interested in this design because my buddy wants a gasifier for his 89 Jeep XJ Cherokee.
I’ve seen lots of swing away bumper units for offroading.
Obviously the available market types aren’t made for the constantly heavy loads that most gasifiers consist of. I’d hate to lose tailgate function. I really like the idea of a carrier mounted gasifier because it would make things easier to tidy up for yearly inspections. I see people have BBQ units on the back of their trucks and SUVs all the time, medium sized ones that don’t require a wheeled trailer.
Caster wheels would be a must, I think, because you’ll only need access to the door or tailgate every so often. It’s hard to gauge what kind of material strength you’d need and accounting for all the leverage, so a wheeled setup would at least take leverage out of the equation. I’d want more than one lynch pin holding it together though unlike the one I showed.
Edit: I really need to weigh the unit as it sits right now.
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This style seems a bit better. The pivot is at the center of the end of the rack. At least it isn’t hanging off a corner.
I’m not going to buy one, I’m just looking for a good design to copy.
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Cody this was all much talked about on BobMacs Jeep Grand Cherokee topic. It a Premium side topic so no sense inking to it here on the General side.
Here is a new thought.
To meet lightest weight, durability, and allow for rear vehicle access AND quick removal . . .
Use two Class III reciever center sections boned out re-welded up to the outside spacing of the unibody under rear boxed secetions. Ridged mount this as permanently attached.
Use side-in and out reciever square tubes as the gasifier system platform base.
These removable receiver tubes long enough for a pull back access.
Pull completely back, out and off for system removal.
S.U.
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