Keep us posted on your experimenting design changes,and results- my first gasifier was wk design somewhat- though i used 1/8" thick stock on my heat exchanging methods-worked well took a little longer to warm up maybe-THEN i built a insulated burn tube with heated hopper- i ran the hearth exaust up around the hopper, then through two seperate paralell cylones chambers- that seem too work no sticking throttle either. though it may have had a little more water in gas out or timeing my have been off a little. though no notice of sticking thottle plates- now i build insulated burn tube design with lots of hopper cooling designs. see how this works with my dakota- the other test were ran on my chevy carb trucks v8 on my 2500 old chevy and 4.3 1985 carb s10- FUN FUN FUN???.LEARNING DESIGN CHANGES. All wood not charco though. AS far as my insulated burn tube testing designs, i have no idea how long burn tube metal will survive the hearth area. Not test driven long enough YET.
It will be interesting to see if you can get your 350 to run with this.
I think the 350 might run in the low RPM. The flute has 3 5/8" holes. It’s calculated from Koen’s nozzle chart for the 4.3.
It might run it half decent since the gas exit is all the way at the top but it’ll run hot for sure.
Not currently working on a charcoal downdraft, but last year I did order some silicon carbide tubes in a 14mm OD, 10.5mm ID.
I’ve been racking my brain to think about how to attach it for a nozzle tip when it finally hit me: Pipe nipple turned into a collet! Weld a pipe nipple end and cut some lengthwise slits into the end, and place the tube inside the pipe and tighten down with a nut. Using tapered pipe threads it should work fairly well.
I wouldn’t have ever thought about that idea if I hadn’t looked at Matt’s nozzle design for the no weld ammo box gasifier again.
I think a 1/2" NPT end should work just fine, and if I have to I could add some sleeving to take up any slack.
Ordered some 30, 40, and 50 ppi filter foam for the updraft.
I’m going to either make a stand off for the bottom of the filter, or use a circle of synthetic hog hair media, then hay, then the foam discs, then a void for the 2" out so it won’t suck up the last layer of foam.
I was debating with myself on to either do this method above, or to make a standpipe with many holes drilled out and wrapped in a few layers of hog hair media and hay all around the rest. I think both ideas would work well enough to capture charcoal gasifier dust.
Got the filter foam.
@Matt do you think I should use hay below it or wood chips? This is for the updraft. The foam sheets are 1.25" thick each.
I’ve got chips on hand but I’ll have to go buy some chopped straw.
If I have hay on hand that is what Ill will prefer. However if you have a lot of fines from your wood processing .like we do with when we screen the chips we get. That makes a really good filter media for an updraft. But could pack on a down draft. Hay would be better for a down draft or just use a down draft as a cooler.
That’s good to know. My filter container is a bit small, but since it’s an updraft all I’m worried about is dust and absorbing a little moisture that might come out.
I do like this condensate/filter assembly I built, I’ll re-use it if I build a downdraft reactor. I’m squeamish with this plastic intake 4.3 so I doubt I’ll feed it some raw wood.
If you can get the water out of it, you might dry one of those drywall shopvac filters that fit in the 5 gallon bucket. Just as a test to see how much dust is getting through. It is probably too fine to handle the volume without creating too much drag. (and you might have one already)
I would be leary about the tars from wood with an updraft.
Scored 5 wheels. Dad’s buddy bought a wreck for the LS motor and transmission to sacriligiously drop into a 60s C10. Got the wheels for 250 dollars that I gave the man almost a year ago. One of the tires was unseated from the rim but after cleaning the inside and sucking out the water with a shopvac it mounted fine.
The spare is still unused, the white strip of paint on the tread is still there. Truck had some sort of front end collision.
The Coopers on the wheels look like they still have a solid year or two left on them God willing. I’m sick of the Kelly all terrains on the truck now, I slip on wet grass and you can forget about snow or mud. Never liked compromise tires, gimme Highway tread or Mud Hooks.
I think with lower profile tires these would fit just fine on my Mazda pickup. It’s also a 6 Lug.
Only one other hiccup on a wheel, the valve stem was bad and I had to abandon the TPMS sensor for now.
I honestly don’t even know if these newer year rims work on my 2011s TPMS anyways.
Did my oil change and found an oil pressure port I can plug my digital oil pressure gauge into. I had bought the digital gauge for the square body but it would have been a headache with extra fittings to do in that truck.
Having a WT, I believe even though my truck is a 2011 they gave WT pickups and Express/Savanna vans the older cast iron block and heads but with updated sequential injection. I still technically have a distributor, but I don’t think it would be a good idea to tamper with it.
Normally this gen of 4.3L in the consumer grade trucks has the oil filter housing built into the oil pan I think, with an oil cooler line. My oil filter is in the block and I don’t have an oil cooler, but it does have this pressure port. I could be confusing my Gen with the next Gen 4.3L engines that are not SBC based.
Found out the ACDELCO PF52 filters are now a PF52E and the E suffix must mean excrement because they’re crappy. Plastic all on the inside of the filter instead of the perforated steel core. I have made a full shift to Wix filters for everything. If you’re curious, the Wix part number I got is 51036. This size of filter is also used in the LS engines I believe. I use the bigger filter because I can just dump a whole 5 quart jug in the engine and when the filter is primed I’m a fingernail thickness over full.
Update on the oil pressure gauge, it works! Looks like I average around 45 PSI at idle with a semi cold engine. It had been about 2 hours since I drove it and the block was still warm but exhaust was cool.
I’m honestly surprised at that pressure, but I probably shouldn’t be since it’s a modern engine. Smaller ports need more pressure to get good flow.
I wish this truck had auxiliary gauges in the cluster, but all I’ve got is water temp, rpm, speed, and odometer. I can cycle the odometer to give me transmission fluid temp though.
IS your square body chevy a 350 engine, i got a 350 chevy engine from i think 90’s if you need it call me at 989-455-1062 i might sell it or trade it ,i would give you a great deal. it ran good when pulled out of the truck i had it in. been sitting under my work bench about 5 years. no roof leaks in shop, and had no gasket leaks when pulled.
If you weren’t all the way up in Michigan I’d take you up on that offer. Not sure how we’d ship it to my house in North Carolina, I guess by freight? Yes my square body is a 350 v8.
A 90s 350 should work without the computer as long as I put a regular HEI distributor and carburetor on it, right?
IT would be cheaper to drive it our self though i dont have a long drive vehicle i trust half way there maybe. i am retired and the money is gone a week after it gets in my bank,this month anyway, And its too hot this year till a another month or so probley, YOU can reach me email easier also,after i get up and plug in my computer modum. at this email- [email protected] wait and see what options month or so, I was going to build it for a street stock race car, but too many snags,and flue bugs these days at age 65, and money going no ware these days.
I am gessing about 90 miles north of DETROIT in vassar, 48768.MI. IT has been under the bench so long i got to make sure it has not disapeered asap. I might be able to meet you around south indeana if i can get my dakota test driving checked out before winter.
I just checked my fuel cost around 900 miles round trip from lousvile KY 350.00 bucks, YOU might be right ,a little too far, for a motor likley. counting your half of the driving. We would be making the ZIONIST RICH with there gas prices.
I’ll look into freight prices. Might not be too bad to crate it up and have an LTL bring it.
YOU might get a quote from shiply.not sure,i had not found there phone # yet ,though you can take it free if you need it. the truck seems in good shape, and used trucks are out in plannet of the apps freeken high.
For the price of shipping you could just refurbish a SBC. Not sure of the quality.