With what I would use the LaRosifier design for would be raw wood or dried wood, or rocket fuel mix, I’ll make that for the Cavalier or for the Mazda, I can still utilize the Joni hearth in a LaRosa format to make it more efficient.
Those two barrels welded together is going to be a diagonal downdraft charcoal like earlier plans. I just wasn’t comfortable with only 15 gallons of hopper capacity but that’s fine for the generator, in fact I can lower the nozzle height even more for that 400cc engine and get some capacity back.
I’m eventually going to experiment with a little wood blending, but probably never more than a 20% mix with the Sierra’s plastic upper intake manifold.
Also yes I do plan to make a sawdust filter like Matt’s for this truck.
I’m just dropping my LaRosa ideas in here to prevent having another dead end topic.
Some of My topics threads have gone dormant too, and that is just normal. But if you think of a new idea for that topic thread it is alive again as soon as you bring it back to the top with a new idea for that topic. Remember you are the monorator and you created the topics, and this is for everyone in the DOW Membership to do with thier own topics, management of the topics if they die we let them die.
Bob
Got the top barrel portion painted with some primer. Coat is still drying. Thought I’d paint over the welds before surface rust takes hold. My first big circumference weld where I didn’t have leaks to patch up!
I still need to weld in the gas exit and nozzle coupler. I have a grate that fits perfectly inside this barrel and I have something I can use as a grate perch.
No it won’t be white, as funny as a stained white gasifier would be. I already have a lid with a rope RTV gasket, just need to make a lid tensioner so I’ll have popoff. Going the Gary Gilmore route with that, big central coil spring with a bar. That way the lid will just burp a little instead of flying all the way open. Going to weld a big bolt in the center of the lid to guide the bar and spring, bar will be some square tube I have laying around, holes drilled through and a nut on the end of the bolt. As the spring compresses from a backfire, the bolt will be able to slide through the bar but not the lid.
Looking great Cody, you are moving this gasifer build along with good speed. Hope to see it moving your truck down the road on Char Gas soon. If you can do this it this it will be a big break through for us members with bigger V-8 and V-6 engines. This will also make it no problem to converting over older carburetor and newer throttle body injection with the plastic intakes.
Yes and this very simple (Matt) Sawdust filter that he came up with. A little hay and sawdust for filtering the gases.
WOW, I just thought of a great idea, take 2 ammo boxes cut out the bottoms of both. Weld the 2 bottoms together. Now you have a taller box. Built the filter box the same way but now you have a easy clean out at the bottom like on a WK Gasifier ash clean out. Load it from the top and clean it out the the bottom. I need to book mark this right now. Sorry Cody for hijacking your thread but I had a big brain fart just now. Feel free to use the idea. LOL. I love it when my brain does this kind of flash flooding idea of thoughts.
Bob
Here’s the grate. Held up with the old ring top of the 100lb propane tank. It sits the entire inner diameter of the barrel. Since it’ll basically be a fixed grate, the charbed should keep compacting.
I am liking this KISS design, keeping it super simple. Let the Charcoal be the insulation around the barrel. This reminds me of the mini van gasifier barrel design. But you have a better nozzle and filtering.
Bob
I also have about 12 inches of char bed depth, so it shouldn’t get TOO hot at the grate.
Functionally this gasifier is finished. I have another 1.25" pipe that I’m going to put in for my cap and water drip at the nozzle coupler. I’m thinking a fire extinguisher to hold my drip, I have quite a few laying around that are expired.
Now I just need to wait for my jumbo ammo box to arrive, and this week I’ll get more piping for the cooling rail. And some PVC for general plumbing. I need to get my strategy going for the air mixer. Not sure entirely how I’m going to splice into the air cleaner tube. It’s much bigger than 3" conduit. I have a factory recall air cleaner pipe that I will practice on, cut it open to see if I can nest the steel pipe inside and seal with silicone couplers that turbocharger people use.
Okay so luckily thank God, a 3" Fernco fitting is a very tight fit. I have a very short area where I can introduce the woodgas as far as the snorkel is concerned.
To give myself as much real estate for the gas in and my air damper I might use a regular coupler and a 3" elbow.
This area is in between the mass air flow sensor which is right after the filter, and the what appears to either be the valve cover breather or the PCV hose before the throttle body. That’s all under vacuum so I’m not afraid of soot getting in the PCV. PCV is in its own little box, one of those tumors attached to the snorkel pipe.
These snorkels are not cheap so I’m going to measure thrice, cut once.
Here’s the actual snorkel, the MAF sensor, my real estate, and where the PCV hose is. I wish I had a few of those useless noise reducing tumors to plumb into like other trucks have. I can’t cut into this one because of the PCV.
The reason I ask is this is where I am trying to put my mixer on my Subrau outback I want to use the original air filter box for filtering the air mixer. I am concerned if I cut back on the air what my mass flow sensor will do.
Bob
I’m not entirely sure, but I can’t relocate mine or risk getting soot in it. Last thing you want is a bunch of carbon messing up the sensor and throwing off your fuel map when you’re on gasoline. When you’re not on gasoline and have it switched off it may be confused and try to trim down your fuel amounts. It detects less air so it trims back the gasoline leaving the injectors. It does this as your air filter gets dirty so it doesn’t run too rich.
