CodyT the vertical pleats system will better release ash/soot cakes to fall to the bottom.
In and out pleats movements with on/off gas demands will drive this.
S.U.
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Yeah I’m second guessing my plan. That’s why I’m asking Goran how he sewed his together. I’ve seen Matt use staples to hold his hot bag filters together so I’m wondering if Goran did the same.
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This round pledged filter I have seen before the container sat so filter was on it’s side. Like Steve said the ash/soot would fall off easier and end up in the ash clean out in the bottom part of the filter container.
Bob
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I agree with Steve and Bob, this filter should lay-down, to not get clogged fast, anyway it is a good-performing, easy to make filter.
I think on www.gengas.nu there are some pic’s and drawings of filters like this, mostly/all in swedish, but pic’s are there
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Bought a welder’s blanket. It seems like a very tight weave. I can still see my hands silhouette through the fabric though.
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I could always use some of its own strands, or maybe staple it over in a double hem.
I think I will lay the transformer case sideways and do the accordion style. Less seams means less places for the seams to fail. Just need to find my 16ga wire and hunt around for some scrap rods and roll those into stiffening rings then bale around to secure the narrow portions. I really like the static standpipe you use so what I’ll do is lay the container with the lid facing the tailgate, this will be my clean out. The clean gas exit will go through the bottom and lead up to the cooling rails.
I have a 2"ID 90 degree gentle bend piece of Conduit so I can branch that in on a tangent to the filter.
I might try that either way, wouldn’t be a bad insurance policy on bad seams.
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I’ve used some red silicone in my filter, as “double safety” and it seems to hold up well, anyways it dont do any harm.
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Sorry if i hijack your thread Cody, just posting some thougts about “joining” fabric, this is something i want to try when repair my filter, thinking about cutting up, maybe thin copper pipe and press it together on the joint.
Made a little sketch, because i didn’t know how to explain exactly.
I think the pipe should protect the silicone, make it withstand even more heat.
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Personally I would use stainless steel, since heat anneals copper and brass so it might lose its grip on the seam. I think it could work well though!
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It’s what i suspect too… stainless should be the best, but it’s rather stiff and “springy” maybe it dont close tight enough?
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I’m not sure. I think if you were to see the silicone start to squeeze out then it should have a decent grip.
Another way you could try is to take sheet metal and flatten in a press. You would need a bending brake to start the bend and situate the filter seam inside, then press it down. Or do the same with the pipe, crush it down the entire way.
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I would think after the silicone drys it is not going to come a part that easy. If you staple it down the seam or sow it with fine wire it will hold.
I have done both. Using a leather stitching awle for stitching with fine wire.
Bob
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Here’s the new restriction. I’ve shown pictures of it before but it measures 4.5" ID and has a natural shelf. I’m hoping I can slip it past the nozzles and just drop it in.
Edit: I always revel in the small victories, they can lead to a major success.
Just a test fit
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Going to salvage the double flute experiment and make that into my bottom barrel.
To fix the hearth to the lid of the bottom barrel I’m thinking of laying down one bead, then rolling a ring and then lay down two more beads, attaching the ring to the lid and the heart to the ring. Help distribute some of the weight a bit better. If I had a big sheet of plate steel I’d use that instead and weld the plate to the hearth and the plate to the lid.
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I think I would double over the edge, staple it to make a hem, then overlap the 2 hems in a small roll with silicone in between and then cheap stainless hog rings to hold the hemms together. Pipe may be more stout, but just a thought to join the edges
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Going back to Goran’s drawing on the filter, if you made a top and bottom plate and tacked pieces of EMT so that there was in inner row and an outer row and staggered the tubes so that the inner row fell between the outer then you could weave your fabric in and out to make the accordian folds and where the seam came together cap the seam with a larger dia half section of Emt and screw it into the frame pipe. Easy to replace or remove for cleaning.
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I’m not good at putting words into pictures, I’d have to see a rough draft of that.
I’d thought about using two layers of rabbit wire and making it like an air cleaner element. Use a pair of steel pans and some sort of heat resistant epoxy to seal the ends to the pans.
Rabbit wire is to create a stiffening layer for the fiberglass. This could probably be done easier with stainless cloth.
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It needs to be stuff enough to withstand -50 vacuum with hard pulls from the engine so it will not collapse the filter cage. I would at least rolled double wrapped with rabbit wire. I made a cylinder roll cage with a towel rolled around it and a vacuum cleaner bag over it attached it to my air cleaner intake. This was to filter out the ash when St. Helen’s erupted in 1980. Only thing that saved my 350 cu. in. engine from the ash fall in Moses Lake.
One other thing is that the rabbit wire will corrode I had some in my hayfilter, it started to rust so I pull it out.
Bob
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Yeah probably, even with stainless cloth I would use a layer inside and out made of a cage material to hold it. It’s just a random idea I had for the more resourceful people wanting to make a filter element for quick cleaning.
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