Welded from the inside, didn’t take my time and the lid is a little warped. I can still work with this but I should have slowed down and attacked at interchanging angles.
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I also won’t be able to do a heat sink style air jacket, but I will have my air come in at the bottom of the jacket to give some dwell time to maybe get some pre heating.
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I need to get some wheels on a frame that I can roll round objects on for when I’m plasma cutting, that way I get good flat even cuts.
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Cody did you see his other channel video on his latest rotary shear/ chunker he is making?
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Yeah I’ve seen it. Pretty interesting
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Ill be interested to see how it does with no flywheel weight added, when are you going to build a chunker to fuel all your builds?
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Not sure. I guess whenever I can find a strong enough gearbox to get some serious reduction.
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I’m saving the Mazda sized hearth for a later experiment. Might remove the restriction and use it for charcoal.
For the Sierra sized hearth I’ve started putting in heat sinks for the tube. Since the material is less than ideal for thickness in the burn tube I’m banking on the longer nozzles to form an ash wall but I’m also using thicker than normal fins to add more mass. Basically a WK.
I have some of my water heater tank that I can use for the air jacket, 16" diameter. I won’t do much of the extra stuff the WK guys do since I’m just doing basic heat transfer to save the hearth. I’ll leave room for improvement to add more heat exchanging before the hearth. Since I already have the barrel lid welded to the hearth I will have to weld in some angle iron to support the weight and distribute it a bit better.
Finding big plates is pretty tough for me. Never have time to go to the scrap yard anymore now that I work all weekdays, and they aren’t open weekends. I hope the heat won’t ruin the barrel lid for the bottom barrel, it doesn’t weigh much but I’m concerned about heat getting to it and warping.
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After measuring the hearth for both the Sierra and Mazda, this really is a sort of Compromise design. Not quite WK char bed depth, no Reduction Zone to speak of, long nozzles like an Imbert and has a tighter nozzle tip distance like an Imbert. Just need to reduce the inner diameter of the nozzle tip for better velocity.
I plan to use a very wide grate, I don’t intend to slip much char. Angle iron self repairing grate.
I’m going to use a full hopper monorator like our friends in Sweden do. Also going to experiment with a venturi ejection like I’ve planned. I’m going to find an exhaust tip that fits over my pipe and actually reduce the inner diameter to meet venturi needs. Something I can take off and won’t have enough time to steam up in my tailpipe and cause even more undue notice than Jed Clampett riding his convertible beater Ute.
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Cody you know that the standard advice is to make only one change at a time. Then monitor.
Excellent advice once a fellow does have a full system made up!
So this should be your laser-like #1 goal now.
Make up something to get back to loaded engine running. ASAP.
Too much over thinking will slow down to getting something up and running.
Here is one perspective that Joni has helped me to understand.
Famous Mr Imbert and others promoted that thermal chemical reduction took place below the restriction. WayneK not reading this and being influenced by this evolved to doing the majority of his thermal-chemical reduction above his restriction. His makes massive amounts of char. That char not forced past a physical restriction to do gasification conversion. His acting with varying loads more like a expanding-contracting active zone charcoal gasifier.
Joni two zone conceptualization as I hope I understand it is all about happenings above the restriction; versus all that is happening below the restriction. Two floating varying zones versus the widely promoted four zones concept.
With he himself off onto a floating single zone concept. Based on previous Soviet era works.
2nd thing. Nozzles protrusions. Sure. Ok. Get the heat loading off of the nozzle ring walls.
But damn short protruding nozzles. The long nozzle guys fight bypass flowing. Then “fix” with tars fences and such.
Interesting the developing around two rows of nozzles. IISC, CPC, Stephen Abbadessa, Arvid Olsen, now J.O., Tone and others. Watch their results too.
Regards
Steve Unruh
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I’m essentially sticking to Joni’s hearth design but with a larger air jacket. I should shorten my nozzles some more, I am going to weld in some lug nuts or sleeve in smaller pipe.
I want to say my nozzle length on both is about 2", so it turns the 12" tube to a 10" tube. Will shorten to a 1" protrusion from the wall, I think that will still allow serious ash protection behind the nozzle.
Or I could sleeve with ceramic wool.
Also for the Mazda, I’m building the rest of the system Post-Gasifier so I can quickly swap from my built charcoal reactor to the wood reactor I’m taking my time on. What would be overbuilt cooling for charcoal should be just right for wood.
Edit: Forgot to mention I’m using an odd number of nozzles as Joni prescribes.
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I’m still thinking about the ceramic wool in the reactor. I use it in the heat riser of my Rocket Mass Heater but there is only hot air passing through it. Nothing abrasive. I may try something like ceramic blanket impregnated with water glass to give is a harder shell. Waterglass is only rated to 2000f so I’m thinking it would require nozzles protruding a ways beyond the insulation.
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I would harden it with water glass and then treat with Satanite.
Or something like this, 3000F
3000F CASTABLE Refractory Compound (5LB) Used for Forge, Foundry, Glass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XZKRQQ9/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_2TYY1GATQEPEN5ZZ04ZZ
If you use a refractory on the wool you have to harden the wool or it will just disintegrate when you try to spread the peanut butter consistency mess. Also will keep from compressing under weight.
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I was not familiar with Satanite Cody. Sounds like it would work. The castable refractory seems like it would work if you made a slurry of it and mixed shredded ceramic into it. The satanite sounds like you could blow it over the blanket like shotcrete. I have made a test panel for a dome skin by mixing shredded fiberglass batts with aircrete and spreading it out across a form. That seems promising.
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You only need about a 1/4 inch of this stuff. It cures to itself. Lots of foundry guys like it.
Wouldn’t be hard to repair it either.
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Hi Tom , i used refractory cement a lot during my early nozzle testing days , the grade i used had from memory around 70% alumina content ,the guy at the shop told me any higher content than that will cause too higher thermal shock when heating and cooling , in this bag of refractory mix you can see the bits of pink alumina and the white floss of the ceramic wool , from what i have learned though a slurry will weaken the refractory causing it to break off in bits , when mixing it needs to be as little water to cement as possible .
Dave
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I have always been taught it should spread like peanut butter or cake icing. Fairly thick.
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Deciding to get some work done on my 4.3 sized Joni system. Still looking for small pipes to jam inside the wrist pins, they measure a little over .5" ID. Might try to find some 1/4" pipe and see if that’ll fit.
In the meantime I’m getting the air jacket fitted. Stitch welding, started with 4 spots, then meeting halfway and rinse repeat. Jacket material is some of the first water tank I got.
I added some small heat sinks below each nozzle, more or less to just help the propane cylinder hearth hold shape in the event of any funky heat and less for heat exchanging. 1/4"x1/2" wide bars.
After this I’m going to make the grate, I got some hefty chain the thickest stuff they offered at Tractor Supply. Going for an Angle Iron self repairing grate.
Putting a pin in it tonight, I have a funeral to go to tomorrow. A coworker passed away this week and I feel like I owe it to give him a final goodbye.
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