Man that is a deal though
Planning a lovely vacation tour that just happens to go by Surplus Center…
I only have a 2019 catalog but the price for the generator was the same then. Shipping rates only went to 150 lbs in the catalog but were between 104 and 130 depending on your zone.
Read This on a forum seems like it may be harder then it looks to mess with "Hi…I have studied the schematic of the Bendix generator in TM-5-6115-434-12 in detail and have concluded that the generator and the regulator as sold by Surplus Center will not work properly or at all. The regulator requires a Protection Panel Box external to the regulator to provide the following. An over speed sensor, under speed sensor, over current sensor and an anti cycle lockout 1 sec delay. These sensors input to the regulator to make it work properly. Also I believe there is a servo mechanism that as the load on the generator increases will load down the engine so the throttle needs to advance to maintain a true 60Hz output.
The protective panel part # is 694210-2 made by Honeywell for the Bendix Generator 51B8-3. I have searched on line and can not find any info about it.
Additionally you need the cable to connect the generator, regulator and the protection panel."
Your research got farther than mine. I looked at them several years ago and even asked the counter guy about them. Apparently whoever they bought them from wasn’t much help either. So I stayed away. They used to have great counter help but have lost them due to covid and better opportunities. I still use them.
Definitely going to follow your design build! My wife and I are preparing to build off grid/ modified Earthship Biotecture home and I need back up generator that will be woodgas powered. Thanks for posting your build!
Sooo some updates I’m getting close to the finished product but the closer I get the more I worry about leaks I think my welds are good but can’t help it lol
Looking good to me! Are you testing with soapy water and a blow gun?
Spray some water mixed with a little dish soap and blow air from the other side of the weld. Watch for bubbles growing or coming out.
Or pressurize the whole thing with a shop vac on blow setting and spray on the welds like that.
Well not to much so many parts in the project and hard to test as you go I do have a good welder but nothing is perfect as we all know. I will pressurize when done but if some internals are leaking I will have no idea
If you have any bad internal leaks where air could meet gas, you’ll see hot spots. Paint the gasifier in regular spray paint, nothing high temp. The paint will peel away with the heat.
Some spots may self seal with tar running around if it’s above the hot zone. Stuff in the bottom should seal with ash. I would preload with ash to protect the bottom. And charcoal for a fast test burn, with a little bit of wood over the charcoal.
When you do your test run check with a thermometer gun for any odd hot spots.
That’s very helpful thanks I was wondering how you know
So my reduction tube is rubbing on my grate unfortunately so my question is what should the gap be between the reduction tube and the grate. Then it would me easy to cut a half inch off the tube but a pain to lower the grate because its all sealed in
I’d say one inch is plenty. Is there no way to lower the grate by the central shaft? Like sliding it down a little?
yes i can its just a pain to get to it and its a 3/4 pace so if i take it out should give me a little more then 1/2 in of clearance
I would try that first Josh. You not need more than a 1/2" or so for spacing.
Bob
Ok finished up finally almost took a year but here is the first flair on charcoal.
Bravo! That flare looks really clean. Thanks for the video.
Thanks it went better then expected