Hello, finally I got it going. It really hits me this time and want to share it with you guys. I decided to build a drizzler. Why? It cant get more simplified. And this guy really triggered me.
After some stupid mistakes I dont want to share, finally got the thing flaring today.
And after an hour it was still going strong.
Of course a lot of things went wrong again. Only with you guys it is right the first time. The grate got stuck so I removed the wiper motor. No problem, no shaking required. For longer runs it will of course.
And the final goal:sawdust. Well that is a little tricky, as expected. Clogging, right from the moment of pouring in. But nothing that cant be solved.
Please explain about the water. You are piping the gas through the pail of water to cool it? I have been thinking about ways to do this for a while. Makes total sense to me. I could not follow what was going on with the water in the first video and I have never seen pipe and fittings like those. I’m going to be interested in seeing how you work out the sawdust fuel. I have considered mixing it with a little fuel sized char to let some air to pass through. I finally feel like working again. Now I need winter to get done so I can.
Alright Joep! Thats some nice looking flame. The way it burns in the wind asures its good powerfull gas.
Tom, years ago l tryed something similar on my Chevy.
Check videos of it working later in the topic. I still belive this has a lot of potential, both for mobile and stationary applications.
The reason l stoped developing this is l moved away from woodgas to chargas. There isnt much point here, since the gas is dry and can be sack filtered and it wuld be a shame to moisten the dry gas with water.
But for wood, woodgas is always as wet as it can be so it makes no difference if it gets splashed with water.
Benefits: its small, no moving parts, relatively low drag, and it washes and cools the gas at one operation.
Only downside is winter…
Tom, the flanges are cut on the cnc plasma. Pipes are 120 and 80 mm 0.8 mm thick, standard in my kind of work.
The guy from the first video has some more vids. Always the same problems with woodgas (correct me if I am wrong), packed charbed is one. There is a grate with ceramic balls on it. It is moved by a wipermotor 12V. In my case that is needing some attention. After that it is cooled by water. Still some strange things are happening here that I cant point my finger to. Bubbles in the bucket??? How is that possible? Underpressure!
Sawdust works as well, but a moving grate and some stamper (pyrotouch) is needed here. It constipates. To be continued.
Tomorrow I gonna get me a TIG welder. Looking for a excuse for a long time. I think this is it.
The bases is ok.
Thanks Kristijan, to recieve a compliment from you means a lot! Thanks, now I know I am on the right path.
Yes, Matthias from the video had exactly those reasons to use water for cooling. Still looking for those stainless parts he uses in his cooler. Anyone?
I had a oil bath filter on my 1965 international scout. Worked great for short mileage and then had to be cleaned out. What a mess every time. This was on a four cylinder engine. And in the rainy season bigger mess. Whitish gooey oily mess. A paper filter was the way to go. But a lot of oil bath filters system were used back then.
Matt tried water over mables filtering the gases a couple years ago. Looked like a mess to me to clean out. He went with the pancake filter.
Bob
Movement of the charbed. My mistake was to fill the entire pipe with balls. It moves slowly, perfect. But no charcoal available for reduction.
Couldnt get it lit yesterday. It cost me a night sleep, found my mistake yesterday evening but had to wait for another day
The balls keep the bed moving but prevent the fine charcoal ashes to fall right threw the grate. Works very nice! And for me the sign to take off and start building.
This is very interesting Joep. How long do you think your red glowing reactor section will survive? I surround the thin wall metal in my simple fire bucket gasifiers with refractory cement and they seem to hold up well. I started out using clay packed between the buckets and the stove pipe I use but it dries out and cracks. That doesn’t cause any problems other than looking bad.
How long? Short! How short? We will see. Everything is just put together from stuff from the pile.
I think next one will be stainless 304 to keep it a little reasonable. Cement is not really my thing, might be a good option, mmm. Again no TIG welder then…
You do not have to have a TIG welder to weld stainless. There is MIG wire for stainless but requires argon or helium shield gas. There are self shielding flux core wires that you can use with a MIG welder.
There are stick welding rods for arc welding stainless steel. You can use AC or DC current. I used to use 1/16" diameter rods for welding restaraunt countertops and installing commercial garbage disposals. The challenge was obtaining a low enough amperage from my welder for such small rods and thin sheet metal. The Westinghouse welder I was using decades ago had a low amperage tap of 20 amp which was too much. For the 1/16" rods and 20g sheetmetal I ended up using the exposed coiled nichrome wire heating element from a clothes drier as a resistor for the welders output. I would use a batery charger alligator clip to select how much of the element was used as a resistor. Of course the stainless rods are available in larger diameters. I have 1/8" 308MOT that I used for welding teeth to endloader and drag line crane buckets.
For joining stainless for less than red hot temperature applications you can silver solder stainless. I used Harris Stay-silv flux and typically Harris Safety-silv 45% or preferrably 56% silver filler wire. I prefered using high silver content filler wire as it flows better. The fillers used in the low silver content filler rods have a higher melting point than the silver which tends to result in overheating of the stainless which causes oxide. formation.
The part would be pre-cleaned and then the portion to be wetted with silver was coated with flux to exlude contact with air. Then heated - keeping the surface coated with flux. A scrubbing action with the filler wire coated with flux onto the surface would indicate as soon as the steel was hot enough to flow the rod. If the stainless was overheated - the surface would get an oxide on it that would repel the filler wire. This would require grinding or such to remove the oxide so that the joint can be successfully completed.
A bit of warning. Some older silver alloys could contain cadmium which is very dangerous to breathe. That is why I made sure I did not use filler wire containing cadmium. The fluxes often contain flouride. I liked how those worked but it is not good to breathe the fumes of the flux. The flux typically becomes a glass like deposit on the part when done. It can be chipped off or usually soaking in water will dissolve the hard flux deposit.
Thanks Ron. I know it doesnt have to be a TIG. Just looking for a excuse. The last 26 years I needed it twice, so probably I can do without for the next 26. I have a spool for the mig but the sputter causes a lot of grinding to clean. My son wants to weld alu. All together I tought this is the moment. Didnt buy the next day, the ac part makes it expensive. Traded a little, got a helmet and filter and alu rods. My speedglass helmets are 15+ years and have some black spots. Wow , new technics and very clear view. Not a Speedglass this time but its very ok.
Now find some time…
I had an old tig-beast, and when I started my stainless project i bought a new, cheap one (with hf-start, it’s a must) had to get a bigger gas-bottle because i use it more than the trusty old mig nowadays
