My wild guess is that your cooler is condensing a lot of the tarish stuff and moisture out of the gas.
I used to check the inside of the blower for any tar droplets but I have no idea if that can be easily done with a shop vac. And it may not make it that far, if there is any.
Nice set up! I loved seeing the gold dredge nozzle that has been repurposed as a flare! Nice to know that there are others on DOW who also have prospecting interests.
Just been thinking about your situation. A reason for the dimer switch on the shop vac is; If you over pull a gasifier, the temperatures will rise and the heat will burn the tar and give you better gas. If you pull too little on the gasifier it runs at lower temperatures and allows tars to pass through. So running your shop vac a wide open, you could be over pulling the gasifier and thus seeing good gas. That amount of pull might be something you would get from a V10 running 60 mph down the road. Now if you think you have a good flare an hook that to a 10 hp generator, that engine would be a server under pull and you would get tar that will gum the engine up.
Part of all the calculations that many of us do, starts with the size engine and the rpm it will be run. ( food for thought) TomC
The other thing to remember is that the engine was basically idling with no load.
I had trouble with a 5 KW GENERATOR until I loaded it up with Over 1 KW.
Check the throttle position and you will probably find it is barely open as the governor is controlling the engine speed
I canāt say how impressed I am with you and your build. I love to see projects that donāt follow the crowd. I guess there isnāt much of a crowd up in Alaska. TomC
Good job Drue, first time I have seen a snow blower on wood gas. The simple fire chcharcoal gasifier could be fitted to your snowblower. They are easy to build and small.
But getting power from a generator is probably more important for you right now.
Bob.
Iām thinking my gasifier might be big enough for a small truck. That 6 horse motor barely pulled on it. Need more pull. My 13hp gen might work. I need something bigger that likes to breath fuel
Hey Drue well done a very outstanding well done in fact i am so impressed with your build and all with the aid of the āring of fireā and it just goes to show how sometimes thinking outside of the box can work , and for that reason i would love to know as i am sure many others here would , how come you decided to start building your Gasifier this way , rather than how everyone else seems to show on YouTube these days with a conventional ring of odd numbered nozzles around the bottom .
all the best and welcome along .
Well I did not know there were specifics on air nozzles. Everyone seems to jump around with size, how many, location. I thought the goal was to get the air to the bed. This way I figured I could get the air to the whole bed.
I got up and let the dog out at 2:00, went back to bed and tossed and turned thinking about your build. Got up at 3:00 made a cup of coco and came down to re-read your posts. It is often said on here that, " there is nothing new that hasnāt been tried before". I would like to ask the folks that have studied gasifiers and WWII gasifier, Has a gasifier like this one ever been built? Kristijan opened the door with his āring of fireā nozzle, but he still had conventional nozzles blowing a penetrating force into the char-bed. This is more of a āfanā of air. This reminds me of Mr. Wayne"s design where the air just flows out of the nozzles and drifts downward.
Then there is the restriction! What restriction? Drue doesnāt have one. Other than the FEMA has that ever been done? Putting the nozzle and restriction together like Drue has done, I would guess IS new.TomC
How long is your 6 in. oxidation/reduction tube and what do you mean by stainless steel "flare tubeā?
Hi Drue. Interesting build.I noticed a few things. I noticed youāre using pellets, youāre making tar and your fire tube is 6" diameter.
Thereās a little ledge at the bottom of your fire tube. Can you cut a couple of discs to sit on that ledge to reduce the diameter to a smaller diameter? I say a couple because maybe you can make different sized openings to see which works better. If it were me, I would cut one around 3" (maybe smaller) for wood pellets and around 4" for small wood chunks. My thought is you will increase the residence time of your fuel below the air inlet for the thermal chemical reaction and maybe that will convert that tar into more wood gas.
I believe billās suggestion above of the restriction plates is good, but not for the reason he said. By restricting the flow, you will increase the velocity where it matters, in the reaction zone. Now you will have hotter temps to crack the tar, but a smaller area of glowing char. Just what you need for a smaller engine.
Hey Guys; I donāt think he should make any changes until it is established that he IS making tar. So far it seems to me he is trying to prove that he is or isnāt making tar.
Max; Thank you for responding. You certainly have an understanding of Imbertās patents. Are all of these available in any of the literature in DOW library? ( good to hear from you. you have been rather quiet lately. Working on a new build?) TomC