David If your toyota is odb2 then it has a wide band o2 sensor so you need a wideband air fuel ratio gauge to work correctly narrow band and wide band o2 systems don’t mix. if your not getting a CEL then id bet that is the problem.
wideband o2 sensors are more accurate so the ECM can more accuratly meter fuel to the engine. so yes you have it correct
so to recap you’re going to have to bite the bullet and buy the more expensive wideband o2 sensor
if you really wanted to you could run your own narrow band o2 sensor to the gauge you allready have, but thats just complicating things more.
Eric,
I hear what your saying, but what I am getting at is I thought anyway that OBD2 didn’t come till newer model years, and my yota is an 1989.
David S
Far as I know nearly all vehicles (yes even obd2) until the last few years have narrowband gauges, the exceptions being some VWs and German/Euro cars. So if you have an oxygen sensor on the 89 at all, it’s a narrowband. That said, I’m not surprised the gauge isn’t working, you’ve probably tapped the wrong wire.
If the O2 is dead, the engine will run rough and get poor mileage. CEL will come on too. I assume these symptoms are not there.
You bought the right gauge. Only one question, is it hooked up wrong or defective? I suspect the former. Easy to find out though. Check with a voltmeter, the signal should be 0-1 volts and jumping rapidly, tick-tock, on-off. Use an analog voltmeter to see it jump. Digital ones don’t respond fast enough. If it’s just on steady, or not a 1 volt reading, you’ve got the wrong wire.
Oh by the way, about the 1,2,3 and 4 wire. You have the 4 wire narrow band.
1 wire = signal only (sensor body is ground)
2 wire = signal and heater (sensor body is common ground)
3 wire = signal, heater and heater ground (sensor body ground for signal)
4 wire = signal and signal ground, with heater and heater ground.
Widebands can have 4 or 5 wires, or even more. They can never have less than 4.
Chris,
Of course I have a O2 sensor at all. Not sure what you meant there. No the symptoms of rough idle, or check engine light are not there. Not sure what you meant by your not surprised it isn’t working. I did follow the directions to the letter and confirmed with a couple of different sources the wiring schematics for my truck, and what color wire is suppose to be what. The blue wire on the sensor connects to a black on the vehicle harness side, it is the signal wire. The gauge is suppose to tap that wire on the vehicle harness side which is what I did. I will call tech support at SunPro tommorrow to see if they have a diagnostic test I can perform on the gauge to verify it is working or not.
Thanks for the link, and for trying to help out. Hope the book is coming along. Sounds like alot of work!
David S.
Sorry David, I should be more clear: 89 is one of the first years for switching to fuel injection for many makes, even Toyota made the carbureted 22R through 87. Given that, it is “iffy” whether any particular make will have an O2 sensor for 87-89. I don’t doubt that you have one… poor phrasing on my part.
Found a thread here that suggests the computer may be floating the 4-wire sensor at a higher voltage (it controls both power and ground), which means the gauge never sees low voltage - always full rich. Again I urge you to whip out the voltmeter, it will tell all.
Marvin
I hesitate to give a thumbs up or down on anything I haven’t tested. I posted the probes I use on a daily bases because I know they work.
With driving I do with the system they have proven to be a necessary item. If your planning on using these on just the hopper
you will probably be okay. Double check to make sure they are an airtight connection.
Sean
Douglas
Thanks for the input
My system has things well in hand and not ready to jump into. anything new at this time.
I could go into all the boring details of tests and experiments done to get to this level but that’s not my thing.
My due diligence has already been paid.
Sean
Hi Don. A Magnehelic is a special kind of gauge. I has 2 inputs, one to "push, and one to “pull” the needle, hence , any magnehelic will measure pressure, vacuum, or differential all on the same gauge. I’m bringing one to Argos to demo. The 15 psi warning is when you are using it in differential mode, neither input can exceed 15 psi, and the “difference” must fall inside the range of the gauge, in this case 50 in-H2O. This particular gauge will measure 50 in-H2O in vacuum just fine.
Hello All,
I am rounding up parts for the next gasifier build. I need to get some t-probes on order soon was thinking I could get a whole bunch at the same time if anyone is interested. The cost is $350.00+S&H per display this will include the probe, special t probe wire and a digital display. Basically all the components are supplied all you have to do is hook them up. I will provide the how to install. All the trucks I build come with Hopper, Heat X And Grate. Let me know you contact via e-mail or cell phone.
Thanks Sean HWWT
Alright, put me down for one! I want the one on the grate. I know I should buy all 3 at once, but I need to stretch the pain out a little bit. Starting with the most lacking place.
You other guys, I’m leading by example here. Follow suit! This is a $350 gasifier insurance plan. Worth it if you can scrape up the funds. You know I’m about as cheap as they come, but I’ve got way too much invested in this truck. A little extra instrumentation is a big help and assurance.
BTW, Sean’s told me that he’s ordering from a supplier that can have a long turnaround time. If you’re thinking about it, get your order in with Sean’s.
Sean, here is my rediculously cheep thermocouple moniter. It is two multimeters. One is the display. The other, on the left, is cut down to just the rotary selector switch which I have re-wired to select among grate, ash pit, hopper, heat ex output AND O2 sensor. I’ve become accoustomed to just thinking in millivolts. Works great.
John
