Okay, here is drawing 1, the setup i used to perform in the video
This is drawing 2, the setup i want to try next…
I added a extra jacket around the hot zone to create a mixing zone between the sidewalls, also protective against excessive heat outside
1= lightning port + air intake + intake from between the sidewalls
2= intake exhaust gasses
3= water spray point
This will lead to an adjustable system to do tests.
I need to find out;
what is the effect on the exhaust of the engine, because it is not the amount of Co2 that is considered in the emission regulations, but Co , Nx and Nox
Maybe Steve U could say something more sensefull.
At the end, and for the future of course, we will be judged with emission ruling.
My question, and i hope someone may already now the verifiable truth, how does the exhaust mixture reacts towards the emission ?
Since water vapor, reduces the amount of Nitrogen and makes the mixture to the engine more rich, i presume that will be positive if the mixture is kept rich
the exhaust gasses already contain Nitrogen and a lot of Co2, and if the gasifier works on to low temperatures then the mixture might be to lean in the engine which lead to more Nox and Nx
Its just a question where i am still struggling…
To Garry and the other Charcoal adepts 
Higher airspeed at the nozzles affects positively the gas quality and less problems with the humidity.
You make a smaller surface hotter, sublimating the carbon more fast, without increasing the total hot zone
I will try to make an understandable drawing later.
The soul problem is dough, the more vacuum you’l have and with the restricted carburators this makes a weak spot.
Playing at that point with water-hydrogen closes that gap in powerloss.
That was my main purpose of the removing the carbs…
lets see what you guy’s could help me with the question…
Exhaust gasses and we call it a “carbon dioxide killer”
Water and we can call it “running on water”
So this march to the unachievable can only be about SOCIAL CONTROL.
Play thier engine CO2 games and you let them win this control over you.
At best These Political Correct Greens would have us ALL, everywhere, living in dense packed Citys surrounded by green forests with it all managed by Them with thier idealized systems. A self-serving Priesthood of Righteousness is still anti-Freedom for the individuals!
GreenSlave minimalist forced Consumers are no different then BigBusiness pigout SlavedConsumers. Slaved out none the less.
Now just one step past the current Political Correct Greens are the Ultra-Greens convinced now that we Humans ARE the Disease that needs to be cleansed from the planet. They techniques are destabilization and Anarchy to kill us off more rapidly by poverty, misery and starvation.
So my fist in the air protest to the GreenBullies is to keep showing the real DOers of Life how to make old IC engines run without beholding enslaving fuels no matter how oxygenated “Green” they may be spun.
Political Correct Greens today are the DinoFuelKings of yesteryear. I see no difference.
That MAN with his foot on your neck demanding you to “look down, look down” because HE is Superior, making you inferior. . . well . . . you can at least spit in the cup of water demanded handed up to him up there on his high horse.
Regards
Steve Unruh
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Koen I have an experiment for you:
Run an engine on gasoline or wood gas and inject some exhaust into the air intake of a charcoal gasifier in flare mode. What you will see is the colour shift of the flare from blue to purple indicating the presence of hydrogen. Steam is useful in a heat and flare situation but exhaust is easier to manage and contains the hydrogen anyways. Your experiments, you’ll do as you please…
David Baillie
No one in Thailand would give a second thought to emissions, any plant materiel would be burnt any way. During the dry season smoke is a major problem in northern Thailand. There is next to no wind and fires everywhere, visibility can get to less than 1 KM due to a combination of smoke and dust.
@ Steve, thanks for the info about the Nox in the emission, this gives me a lead where to look at.
@ David, i sure will perform that experiment, i believe there are huge benefits in injecting the exhaust, now i am trying to find out what is the optimum temperature range to work with either or both, water and exhaust.
The goal is to obtain as much energy from the charcoal as possible, to increase the efficiency and to make it possible to run the small engines without great loss off power compared with gasoline.
@Gary, yes, i know, i breath that air
But even when i live here, the gasification is not bounded to where i am. if my work makes its use even more attractive for others, thats my goal, making gasification attractive for all. making it simple solid and sound. so no one could say we are poluting the world…
I keep posting the progresses
Regards
Koen
Hi Koen, Let me take a stab at this comment you made;
Exhaust gasses and we call it a “carbon dioxide killer”
Water and we can call it “running on water”
Here is how I see it. Exhaust gasses contain carbon dioxide and water vapor. Both can serve as fuel and do double duty by regulating the oxidation zone temperature. In excess, both gasses can be “killers”. The secret is to put enough of these gasses in your charcoal generator to keep the temperature around 800C. Much below that and the water/gas reaction drops off.
Until later,
Gary
Hi Gary,
I agree with your statement that both can serve as fuel and both regulate the temperature in the oxidation zone.
The temperature i have in mind is between 1000 and 1200°C, just before the slagging start.
There still remains , of course, the correct feedstock to take in account.
At these temperatures >1000°C the conversion is in the beginning state of being optimum.
There are even study’s that say’s to do it in a pressured environment and obtain about 60% more energy from the same amount charcoal.
but we can not reach that
Anyhow, i try to combine your simple-fire style with old knowledge and have the fun of a lifetime…
Next testing preparing now, i did the first test with the car-generator - converter to run it on gasoline and that worked good.
Now stripping the carb of and connect the gasifier.
i am adding a little fine filter above the oil-dust tank, to check how much particles i suck into the engine.
I might use rice-husk as a filter media in a drum as well.
testing, testing, testing…
improvements ?
Today i added 2 “gismo’s”
1= a washable filter with possibility’s to ad filter pads in a transparant canister.
I was a little worried about the filter capability and now i can see if it needs adjustments.
Same time i am on the safe side with the washable filter ( pricing: 7$ for the complete set)
2= a check valve in the filter tank to compensate the push-pull effect from a small engine ( thanks for the tip David)
I used a water check valve but removed the spring inside.
If i wanted to fitt it horizontal, i wil modify the spring
Okay, today’s test victim
Genset Honda clone, 7Hp 2700 Watts max, 2500 watts continiues
Started a disc cutter 2200 watts, with a lott of difficulties of course, but i did run…
Simultaneous small disc cutter and blower, 720 watts + 550 watts, no problems
needed to do a lot of adjustments, but the set did run…
Used the carb as governor, and the piping was only 3/4" instead off previous 1" straight
Pic 1 the genset , original
The set, just after the run…
1 hour under variable loads… even a cutting disc from 2,2 Kw started… ( slow start , but started )
1,2 Kg charcoal
pic of the modified gen set, piping 3/4"
The briggs and stratton was 156ccm
The clone honda 160ccm
This gen set was 220ccm
Tomorrow the Honda is 200ccm
The Honda getts a bigger poully for lower rpm continue
can be fittet with either a HP piston pump, a centrifugal pump or a car generator + inverter
quick changed the pump for test tomorrow…
i will test flow and pressure in simulation to height.
still have to strip carb and replace with piping, not sure if i take 1" or 3/4"
My guts say to stick with the 1" and forget about carburators. and ad the exhaust gasses for the future…
Engine has 5" pouly
Pump has 2,5"
so if engine revs at 1600 rpm, the pump will run at 3200 rpm ( also perfect for the car alternator )
Okay, here some links to youtube…
This one is from the water pump above, testing how much is the fuel consumption on gasoline.
Run with 1 liter gasoline, 67 minutes, pumping at 2,5 bar 80Liters/minute = 5360 Liters water pumped.
Tomorrow doing the same but on green waste charcoal…
here some links to the test with the generator set
start up explanation
fire in the hole
the genset running and start up from the disc cutter
the last filter reacting to the load changes
? missing a few clips at youtube, will check tomorrow
i did this run with water spraying, it helped with the start up of the engine very well. but after that, the reactions of the governor masked the effect.
i study’t a little and did found something for the hydrogen lovers…
a small engine, as i use, needs about 6000 liters of gas at 3000 rpm
1 kg of charcoal needs about 1,25 kgs of air for gas, charcoal sublimates into gaseous condition at a rate from 5000 Liters to 1 Kg Charcoal ( give or take )
Now: water expands at a rate : 1 liter water at 1200°C becomes almost 7000 Liters
Since we only can replace a % of air ( alternating steam - air ) lets say 50/50 then we could spray the max of 500 Liter steam/Kg charcoal = 0,071 Liters water to turn into vapor. ( at temperature 1200° C)
Time for testing again…
How much of that charcoal is getting burned up to turn the water into steam? Assuming one had an input of exactly 100C liquid water, it takes 2,270 kJ to convert 1kg (or 1L) of that water into steam. With your number of 0.071L/kg charcoal that should be 161kJ to convert 100C water to steam.
Let’s say your starting water is at ambient for a nice sunny day, 30C. Now we need to heat that water by 70C before we can evaporate it. By my math, it says it takes only 293kJ to raise 1L of water by 70C… That doesn’t quite seem right in comparison to the water-to-steam conversion energy above. I may have read this wrong… http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/water-thermal-properties-d_162.html
Anyways, it takes a lot of energy to heat water to 100C and another boost of energy to convert 100C water to steam. One might want to include that in one’s calculations.
Hi Brian,
Yes it does take a lot off energy, but that was not part of my calculations , yet…
Therefore the testing… how much can i do before the system runs down …
But we all know that the energy should come from the heat radiation or heat losses which inevitable occur…
I talked about replacing the air with water vapor, we do not ad something extra to heat up, we replace something what should be heated up anyway…
Since water contains 2 powerful substances(Hydrogen and oxygen) which will ad power to the gas we want to obtain, i asume its worth more to heat up water above heating up nitrogen ?
I have some articles and study’s about the mixtures with hydrogen i post them if you like…
Lets say i am an adept of charcoal and hydrogen… Why ? because its easy and has more power then just wood gas. The hydrogen makes it possible to run at a higher rpm then standard wood gas as well.
Any how, i do my testing and studying and will keep you posted about the progresses or failures i make
If there is a progress or development you like to copy, be my guest, thats why we are here for…
regards
Koen
PS. Today i will test with exhaust return, without water, without governor, see if its revs up as same as the water did.
i will perrform some power tests same time ( pumping water under pressure ) to compare
Hi Koen,
You are off and running. Now for the fine tuning. I have a concern that the check valve is too much of a restriction and may be holding back enough gas flow to affect engine performance. Especially for a larger engine. Something to keep in mind. On thinking about this some more, may I suggest moving this valve in front of the air inlet valve that mixes air with your charcoal gas. In fact, I may give this a try too.
As you noticed, starting small engines on just charcoal gas can be made easier if a little hydrogen is added to the mix. This can easily be done by inserting a stick into the hot zone of the nozzle. There is hydrogen and water in the stick that will give a boost of power to your charcoal gas.
As for the filter, the black stuff should be very fine charcoal dust. With well made charcoal in your generator, there will be no issues with tar. Looks like your final filter is catching most of it. Good job.
Gary in PA