Giorgio, I am speechless, it will not be a historical tractor, but a modern machine powered by solar energy. 
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the kerosene heat exchanger…i guess contraproductive with chargas using…
filling up the hollow spaces between carburator and intake- exhaust holes with some insulating material to disactivate the most part of the heat exchanger…? maybee with fire cement??
who has ideas?
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First of all: fantastic! Beautiful work Giorgio
Fireproof clay or cement should probably work, with some reinforcement / plates, to stopping it from coming off/get sucked in.
Many kerosene engines have a adjustable baffle to control preheating, adjust it for different types of engine kero, or pure gasoline, does this one have it? Can be pretty rusted away, but can be repaired with stainless sheet.
Best is probably to re-make the manifold, or get one from a straight gasoline engine, but hard to get/ lot of work, anyways the best thing is to keep the gas as cold as possible.
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the heat exchanger has this baffle, but i wonder if it is sufficient
the design on the foto down is our model…weber carburettor…
the baffle housing is not to open, of course, bolts completely strong rusted in…tomorrow i will try heating up with the forge…
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Ofcourse, that is a problem, maybe worth it to get bolts out, heat, drill, cut- to modify the heater to minimum pre-heating.
Maybe cut it open, plug the pre-heating passage, weld or braze it back together?
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Stuff the space with Kaowood alumina-silicate batting. Maybe.
Slip an SS plate up in to hold that in place.
That pate held in place with external drilled and tapped in SS pins. Maybe.
S.U.
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Preheating the gas to a high temperature, … if the gas contains carbon dust, which was formed by cooling the gasified coal (I assume that there is quite a lot of it, if we are talking about a coal gasifier), there is a high probability that these particles on the hot surface they are gasified again and bound with oxygen into CO before entering the engine. This would be a good feature of the hot intake manifold, and cleaning will not be necessary either. 
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SteveU explained better, exactly what i meant, only i thought about cement or clay, wool would be better.
Tone, i’ve read somewhere that your statement is true, preheating the gas after it’s mixed with air should leave the intake perfectly clean, works better whit more moist wood-gas.
But those benefits should be of less worth than the less filling of the cylinders, due to the hotter more expanded gas.
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yesterday we opened the oil bath filter, was partially damaged by previous owners, also the wire wool seems not so relieable…when pieces of it goes off and get sucked in the engine…a horror vision…so i thought, beside of cleaning mess of a oil bath filter, not to use it more…but to filter the secondary air through the gasifier filtering system…secondary air is mixed with the gas after the cyclone…so also i get the gas cooler, can be a advantage in regard of the hay filter…but i get with this system also a higher gas-air mix speed…has this disadvantages?
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For engines getting limited use like most farm equipment, I think that adapting Shop vac filters for primary or final filtering is a good idea. They will last a long time though I have never used one where hot air may be an issue. I have burned sponges in an simple fire because they were too close to the gas exiting the hopper. I have cleaned out all the creosote dust and ash dust from cleaning my wood heater with the same vac filter for years. They don’t seem to pass anything otherwise you could not use them inside your house.
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Explosive mix in bigger volume, no good.
Edit: you can get stainless steel scrubber sponges, even copper ones, these work very well in oil bath filters.
If bought in store theres often no mention of stainless or not, soak them in salty water, let them dry, if no brown rust, good to go.
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Hi TomH.
Produced gas filtering gets really complicated real quickly.
What you are talking about is a single pass pleated reinforced treated paper filter. Designed for use in a low termerature, low humidity flow stream. Designed so actually the majority of the collected up DRY gunk will surface of paper pleats collect. Then drop off down at shop-vac shut down into a low turbulence settling collection area. Helps to bounce the shop-vac a bit after use.
Now use that so called wet-dry vacuum and actually suck up a liquid spill . . . !!! Instant filter clogging killer sucking wet into the previous paper surface imbeded dry gunk!! Used for wet cleaning ups; and the better instructions say “Remove the paper filter BEFORE vacuuming up liquids.”
Now take that same reinforced treated plated paper design; now designed for use in a wet, hot usage - an engine oil filter to a hydraulic system filter. Once the paper surfaces are fill clogged then it must be changed out.
There is a started 2016 topic by @Bobmac he titled “Filter Design and Discussion for Gasifier” your musing would fit in much better.
Regards
Steve Unruh
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Goran:
My magnet trick. Some Inox (stainless) is slightly magnetic, very easy to separate from a strong magnet. [especially lock washers, springs, etc.] Steel, Iron stick solidly. Brass, Copper, Aluminum, some types of stainless steel, stick not at all. 
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That is a good trick Mike, but by some reason non-magnetic stainless becomes magnetic if milled or turned (the shavings) do not ask me why 
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These scrubbers are often slightly magnetic, both stainless, and not-so-stainless (cheap ones)
As i always look for stainless, scrap, parts, stuff, i use to carry a magnet in my key-ring.
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thanks all for answers…i got the idea now, maybee the stainless net i use for the dust traps in my other engines, could also work well for a oil bath filter? maybee a roll of 10 cm high could also work instead of the old filter packet…?
scrubber sponges is not so easy for me to get, next city is 5o km away, and here in the village is shure not to find…only possibility is ordering in internet, but than never know if the stuff is like desired…thanks for advice of danger from bigger quantity of mixed gas…
always a lot to learn…
today we built a new throttle block in stainless, the channel in the weber carburettor seems too small and has a additional tube in the venturi…
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Hi Giorgio, if you decide to order scrubbers on internet, brewing supply and distilling supply use to sell the true stainless scrubbers, also scrubbers recomended for this use to be true stainless.
Those stainless scrubbers are popular for fractioned distilling columns.
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Not a tractor, but still a historical photo nonetheless.
A friend sent this to me, a DeSoto with a gas producer.
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One of my first cars was an old 60’s square body fiat 4 cyl car- sounded like a swiss watch for the year it was built - precision running engine.Sorry i replied on an older thread-I forgot to check how far up the page the fiat tractor post was at. 
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I wonder if the old tooling for making the VW beetle engines is still around. If someone wanted to start building those as crate engines I bet they could sell a ton of them. I think the last place they were made was somewhere in S. America.
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