Sure hope thats true. My seal around the firetube is starting to get a bit sticky but im hopeing it wuldnt leak, l have bolts about an inch apart so it is presed very tight.
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I should find some time to disassemble some joints on my first gasifier where I used pulverized rock wool between two layers of red RTV to make my own high temp gaskets. It appeared to press together and seal very good. Rock wool I believe is rated to over 2000 F.
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JO, Do you have a picture of your cyclone with the heat exchanger attached? TomC
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I think that “Red” for the sealer doesn’t necessarily mean “high temperature”.
See:
http://www.momentive.com/products/showtechnicaldatasheet.aspx?id=10289
Many years ago we used the RTV106 and RTV116 in a relatively high temp application, but 'way back then it was a proprietary GE product, I think.
NAPA auto parts stores around here carry a similar product, too.
Pete Stanaitis
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Pete, all I know is what I see on the tubes at Menards. It says on the red tube 600 degree rating and on the clear tube 500 degree rating. Some have used regular 100 % silicone bathtub caulk with pretty good results and that old guy in Crivitz Wisconsin uses latex 
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Please let us know when you do.
Post 148 for exampel. No close-up I’m afraid.
It’s only small bucket with an open bottom, insulated on the inside. Air gets in at the bottom and passes upwards close to the finned cyclone wall. A very mild preheat. Most of the air preheat is air svirling in the thin void surrounding the whole gasifier.
Our red says 300 C (572 F). Probably same stuff.
Has anyone tried the black one? It says “motor gasket silicone 350 C”. A bit more expensive.
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My personal favorite is the Right Stuff (by Permatex). Very strong rubbery stuff, works anywhere silicone does, seems very temp tolerant (have used on lower drum seal). Yes more expensive than the red silicone. But worth it IMO.
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I don’t use red anymore, it don’t seem to set up good. I use hardware store $6/tube black everywhere with no problems.
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Update:
Another 150 miles. Another cleanout. All black - dump and cyclone. Looking good.
The red silicone seems to hold up on the relativly hot cyclone flanges. Next failure I’ll try the black one.
Runs normal again too. 50 mph with ease, 60 if I push it.
I’ve started to experiment more with hybriding. This Bosch constant spray system’s lambda seems to do a good job regulating my fuel pressure. I can run anywhere from 10/90 to 90/10% only by adjusting my air valve between woodgas setting and fully open. It doesn’t take much to maintain high speed when climbing long steep hills.
Still collecting almost all my water in the hayfilter and pipe up front. I haven’t started on the cooler extension - yet.
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Yes me to. The computer does a great job when hybrid is needed 
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Hi JO
Great to her you fixed your problems.
Is the temp any lower now?
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Yes, a little lower at the same load but gas temp varies of course with load and tightness of the charbed. The tightness varies with fuelsize, dryness and length of load. It seems long term high load tends to use up all my fines. I try to bring smaller fuel if I go far enough to reload. When only going one hopper (40-50 km) I have the opposite problem and use bigger fuel.
I try not to let temp climb more than to 300 C out of cyclone (probe limit where it’s placed now).
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Hi JO
What are your thods on useing fuel of mixed sizes? Have you ever tryed it? Everyone tends to use uniform sizes…
I was thinking like a mix of wallnut or hazelnut size and tennis ball size
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Kristijan,
I was about to say that’s what my fuel looks like most of the time (and I did). Well, almost.
Most trips are short trips, 15-30 km =1/2 hopper, and I need to try keep my fuel as big as possible, not to get constipated. I think tennisball is pushing it with our 8" firetubes, but some pieces are and I’ve ever had any bridging that I know of.
If I delibrately put very small fuel in I put it on top. That’s usually what happens anyway if you pour a sack of mixed fuel in. Later on the small fuel seems to fall through when driving. When I open up next time there are only bigger fuel left.
You will get more wood into the hopper if you mix big and small. The small ones fill the space between the big ones and don’t take up further space.
I remember my grandfather used to tell stories working on road constructions as a kid in the 1920s. With horse and waggon they delivered stones and gravel. He told me never to mix big and small if you get payed by volume 
Long story short: I don’t think it’ll hurt anything mixing fuel size as long as you don’t get constipated. Too small might cause making tar but I’ve never seen any signs of that and with your nozzle setup it’s not likely at all.
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Hi, Jan-Ola!
30.8.2016
Have you calibrated your RPM meter?
Haha! No, not yet, but I will.
There are always other matters getting in the way.
Running some errands today. While in town I stopped to buy some emergency fuel for the first time since i bought the Rabbit. No one at the gas station noticed there were glowing char two feet from the gas pump 
1400 miles last two months, 95% on wood
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During the war there were strict rules about what was allowed and forbidden.
The rules were to avoid unneccesary risktaking.
You could not handle gasoline on a vehicle with a lit gasifier…
Just one fundamental rule.
Today smoking is still forbidden at tanking…
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Max,
Everything was shut down and closed up at the moment and no surface was hotter than parts of a normal car coming in for refueling. However I do realise it was unnecessary and that I might get in trouble if found out. I’ll fuel up when cold next time.
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