Well I decided to cut my cooling rack off so I can move it off or on the truck much easier. I am wanting to get feed back on how the high temp hose are holding up over the long haul, or should I make steel tapper tube joint connections.
THANKS BOB MAC i got your message on the cooling rail hose connectors- as you said they were regular radiator hose, and still held up to the heat , since i bought high temp silicone hose materiel-i should be more than good on this cooling rail set up- Though i gess its time too BBB and put a temp gauge to the system,see what i get…
All four cab corners rebuilt, after I took the 2" thick rugs out, I found all the rust cavities. Worse than I thought, but good metal all around the rust places made for easy repairs.
The drivers side the worst, I had to weld a peice of 4" C iron under that cab corner.and plate it up too the solid part of cab corners .
Thats a good point getting free wood after storms- though we never got that winding back here in michigan- most the storms like new-york area we miss. Since this wood is mostly dry it wont take long before its around 10-12 % moisture-ready to use. Being soft wood i may be able to chunk it-or i can always split it and table saw the dryer stuff. AS dead and dry as these big old trees are he cut them down no time too soon.as they were near his house.
We got nailed on thursday. I thought it was the whole county. I know it was as far south as williamston and mason, but a lot of times you guys get different storm systems.
It might have got a bit windy friday night or early saterday–i see i pine tree branch down- i did a lot of sleeping fri night into late saterday- I may have sleep through one. We did get some good hard rains lately.
Got the truck body painted with out a water filter- that was a no no,but it’s painted , I got some fisheye and dirt in my worst paint job,the good new I don’t need to repaint,since wet sanding with 800 1500 3000 5000 grit paper,she polished up nice / flat / and shinny well i got one fender done in short time, after sanding with 5000 paper, it polish much easier.got front and rear brakes replace, rebuilt front calipers, next time i buy new calipers,since the pistons are plastic with ceramic coating or some type coating. Just about done ,got too weld some shock brackets,to mount rear shocks, not much welding left anyway
That crap in the paint sanded out fairly good, and I have red primmer under the paint, so that helps. I need a better pic of the fender tomorrow if possible.//// HERE are some better pics of my new bumper the good width,and a pic or two of my one done wet sanded pic,got a lot of glare and reflection though.
Talk about a bone of an old 99 dakota–one front caluper had rust around the inside between the boot and the seal and one rear wheel cylinder now leaking after allmost getting that step done-Good thing i got more time than money-though i plan on keeping this one.Though my next dakota will be a rt 360 dakota with little too no rust–these second generation dakotas are thin frames from get go or factory. I might look for the 93 to 96 year dakota if i can find a southern body truck,i bet the frames are thicker on the 96 year and back.
Slow as slow but I getting the Dakota near done.i chopper off all the wires going to the rear lights,fuel pump,and post 02 sensor, got that all untangled and lined up, my new fuel tank needs a lift pump, so I got two fuel pumps,one lift and the other one to raise the pump psi another 50 pounds,hopefully that works,or I be tied up pulling the tank, washing out,and adding a internal pump.crossing my fingers on the one I am trying. GOT FEW PICS OF MY REAR FRAME SPLICE, AND I LOWERED MY GASIFIER AS LOW AS POSIBLE WITHOUT BEING TOO LOW, SHE IS DOWN ABOUT 6 IN H OFF THE GROUND, AND I STILL NEED TO MOUNT MY NEW AIR SHOCKS ON IT.
THANKS Chris- i am sure it will ,since this is my third wood gas truck, I must like building them, or at leiste trying different tweeks, It seems too be good and strong after building new rear frame, Those 97 and newer dakota frames seem kind of thin metal- The front stub portion looks about original metal ,hardly any rust, I plan on keeping this gasifier truck, and thinking i got a toyota motor home to turn into a pick up truck flat bed- I called secretary state- here in michigan- and they said all i have to do, is take picture of motor home truck, then after turn into flatbed or box truck, take picture of finished product, and they will fix the TITLE too flatbed OR pick up box .IT would make a good 350 chevy frame for wood gas truck- and i got 2 motors here and a tranny.
I never even thought that it would be necessary to get a title adjusted like that Kevin. I guess you would have to do that if you turned a Chevy Suburban into an open bed. How about all the wood gassers that turned their pick up trucks into wooden flat beds?
I hear what your saying, i havent been able to trulely learn how to operate mine yet due to losing a head gasket, and i have already most of the parts collected to start anaother one.
Well since it is a motor home, thought it might be good to fix the title-and they said just take pictures when i turn motor home into pickup truck, probley be a little less Questains from plates and title from motor home on a pickup truck-its worth fixing the title to me-probley 20.00 $ acurate title, should help keep the thin blue line gang off there excuse to pull me over.THOUGH i have not been pulled over by police in probley 30 years, its pretty laid back in my neck of the woods,And i dont drink alcohol,i caint say i dont swear,and i quit smoking tobaco along with alcohol 18 years ago.
Well come to find out, my high psi rotory pump,was enough to pull the fuel up out of the tank, even though it was above the fuel level, hopefully,so far anyway.
A few steps closer drive on wood power.well I got the truck mostly done, need 2 rope seals installed, and find 2 short peice of flex hose up at air cleaner connection, that fit 2-1/4" od pipe.odds and ends.
HAD some trouble getting long enough shift cables for my check ball open and close air intake/air shut off to the unit , SO i found these linear actuators , 6 " long closed and 8" long open, with 2" stroke on the piston, stationary on the other mound bolt hole bracket. reverable wires stepper motor, stops automatic when at end of 2"/just about right length for air control valve movement. 12 volt DC 220 pound lift strong if needed , the other ones i seen were 14 pound lift or less. ABOUT 32.00 $ us out the door. AND fully water proff for outdoor use. I might buy the 14 pound lift unit for the other check ball control and see if it is a little lighter, this one if a tad heavier than expected. Though it will mount on my bracket fairly well with out any bracket brace? hopefully. A TAD HEAVY NOTE. for the 225 pound lift stepper actuator. GOOD solid unit though,for mounting in 2 places.
AND fully water proff for outdoor use. I might buy the 14 pound lift unit for the other check ball control and see if it is a little lighter, this one if a tad heavier than expected. Though it will mount on my bracket fairly well with out any bracket brace? hopefully. A TAD HEAVY NOTE. for the 225 pound lift stepper actuator. GOOD solid unit though,for mounting in 2 places.