Kristijan. Your fuse for the injectors was too complicated. I had the two wires coming off the switch. On the end of each wire I used a “male” crimp on connector. I plugged each flat connector blade into each side of the fuse connector. The connectors are a tight fit and I have not had any problem with one fall loose. The switch I use I think is called a DPST ( double pole, single through) I have the fuel pump and the injectors hooked so when I through the switch the injectors are on and the fuel pump TomC
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Hi Kristijan!
22.10.2016
to mess 451
on Tom’s page
About your hearth.
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Your grate, hearth.
22.10.2016
Thanks, Kristijan!
Good flow-thinking, no metal-thinking!
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Guys, l am in need of help. There seems to be something wrong with the engine. We drove to town today, no problems what so ever, then after we were done l started the car on petrol there was a problem. The engine wuldnt go higher thain 2100 rpm. It looked like if l hit the full throtle the engine catches quickly but when it comes to the exactly 2100 point it dies for a split second for the rpm to fall ad then che cycle began again. Rpm jumping up and down.
We left it there and went in a nother store by foot but when we came back the engine ran without problems. We came home and l left the car parked for about 2 hours, then l had to go to work. The same problem agen! Althugh driveing on wood was possible at higher rpm but l culdnt heat the gasifier enough to drive on wood alone, and hybriding was inpossible. The engine just doesent suck in enough air at 2100 rpm to give good gas.
Has anyone got a idea what the hell is wrong?
some facts and my thinking:
-I havent changed a single thing on the engine or gasifier.
-The water condensate collector is empty
-the engine runs on woodgas well, so it seems not to be a ignition problem
- the engine has good power, up to 2100rpm. Then zero.Throtle position doesent matter.
- my thinking is the injectors close at that rpm. But why??
The closest as l can describe it it looks like when you hit the throtle in neutral and the rpm goes in the red zone and the engine stops ecelerating automaticly so that it doesent damage itself.
This car beeing 2006 I get the feeling it’s computer related. Most computers are programmed to make the engine go into limp mode if strange long term sensor readings are seen.
Google ELM 327 or simular obd2 adapters. They can be ordered for less than 10 euro on ebay. You can erase codes and kind of reset the computer with it.
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Thank you JO!
Hmm makes sence. I guess unpluging the battery doesent do the job hugh 
Will try to find one.
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HI Krist, The first thing I would look at is the TPS( throttle position sensor) if there are no codes.
Kristijan!
With the TPS not mounted the MAP sensor is possibly the most important input given to the computer for fuel calculations. Could it be soot? What if the MAP sensor doesn’t feel changes in manifold vacuum???
Like a blocked vacuum hose connector? Culd be… wery possible! Thanks.
Any way, the drive is good (for)now. I got the gadgets you advised JO, cant wait for my shift to end to try them out. I hope it will show exactly what is goeing on, anyway it looks like fun toys
Al, like JO sayd, the TPS is completely dissconnected. I am not sure what the computer thinks of it now, will see in about 2 hours
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Ok, first resaults from the OBD2 monitoring:
After the pairing with my smartphone the nice lady from the app started to present all the fault codes, she spoke for quite a while. The list was long. Then l erased them. Over my drive home a few new showed up, will look them up tomorow.
The important stuff!
-the TPS shows 73% so this is sort of what l like to see. I was afraid it wuld show 0% wich wuld most likely give me bad ignition timeing.
-speaking of timeing, it shows 20-30* timeing advance, at the rpm l usualy drive it sets at about 26*. Doesent matter if its gasoline, woodgas or hybrid. Any coment on that? Good, bad?
-the intake manifold vacuum seems ok, 0,7atm vhile driveing, 0.2atm idle. This l am interasted in when the “rpm blocking” problem shows up agen.
-l cant find a O2 sensor voltage meter, althugh there is a guage for a/f ratio, it doesent move. Need to look at it closer.
-the intake air shows -40c??? I wonder what thats about… this allso shows up at fault codes.
-the app allso shows boost (l dont have a turbo??), something measured in % (usualy about 40%) and load in % (allso no idea what that is)
So, if anyone has an idea on some question marks above and a coment on the resaults, l wuld be most gratefull!
Ps: thanks JO, l had no idea such a usefull tool can be obtained for such a small price!
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That usually indicates open circuit. Check for 5v to the sensor, and try shorting the two wires together with a paperclip, reading should go very high. If this is the case, you may need a new sensor.
That’s normal timing for gasoline, apparently it’s not advancing the timing on woodgas. Ideally you’d see it up around 40-50 degrees. I’d want to verify that with an actual timing light.
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That’s funny!
Last year going on a 600 km trip with our 2007 Citroen it went into limp mode 3 times. When back home I hocked up the ELM 327 and the only code was “intake manifold temp outof range”. I erased that code and it never showed again.
Different brand, different programming but it’s possible your -40 C reading could be the cause of your rpm problem.
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JO,
the vacuum sample hoses for sensors are clean, so looks like this intake air temp sensor might be the cause for the problems.
Chris; l might look stupid right now but l culdnt find the sensor. Where shuld it be situated? Logic tells me it shuld be on the intake manifold, but where?
As for codes, l took a closer look at them today. 2 were TPS based, one was intake manifold tuning valve malfunction (it got sticky due to soot most likely-but the performance isnt worse); one was the intake air temp (-40c) and one was malfunction of the control lamps circuit(?). Those are recent ones, the others were most likely me disconnecting and testing stuff. Those dont show up anymore.
This is a screenshot from high idle on petrol.
Has anyone got an idea what is Load, Boost, F/T1X1, F/T1X2? The others l figured out.
Edit : F/T1X1, F/T1X2 l found what they are.
A couple of WAGes:
Load: Computer calculated engine load.
Boost: Manifold pressure diff to atm (positive value only possible when turbo)
About your temp sensor location. What about in your junk bin? 
(on the tb)
Remember, I’m only guessing.
So what’s the F/T? Something lambda related?
IAT is usually on the intake air box somewhere, before the filter or right after. Not on the manifold, somewhere before the throttle body.
“Boost” is actually showing negative, meaning vacuum. 0.8 bar is about right for idle.
Load is the calculated engine load. Based on a combination of engine throttle, RPMs, and vacuum. Used to set the timing and meter fuel.
JO, load always stays about the same. Engine power is displayed in HP ona nother guage (for that l have to enter more car characteristics, hadnt had time for that yet).
Boost you scored, l found the explanation on some forum
F/T is percentage of injector opening corrections. There are just 3 different displays for the same thing basicly. So yes, lambda stuff…
Hmm very possible… so in theory this wuld be simple to prove. Just hook up the “junk bin” part and see if the codes stop showing up.
Edit: thanks Chris, it makes sence. There isnt one after the filter, and l just remembered the original throtlebody is heated by hot coolant so any temp. sensor on it wuld show too high temps. Lools like lll have to lift the car agen…
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KristijanL, it is correct that the Intake Air Temperature sensor will be in either the plastic air cleaner box; or the rubber connector hose. Generally only in the intake if it is a long pathway stay cool plastic.
It is entirely possible that you do not have this sensor at all. That the particular scanner set up you are using is looking for what does not exist on this vehicle.
Here in the USofA all cars sold since in the last 35 years are required to have an under the hood label listing off all emissions related systems installed. The VECI label. Do you have this label?
F/T is short term fuel trim required adjusted stated in a percentage.
LTFT1 is your long term fuel trim adjustment. A longer average of the short term fuel trim the computer has been having to supply to get “rational” oxygen sensor readings.
The plus and minus percentages here, are the added or subtracted amounts of gasoline fuel from the manufactures road tests and lab dynometer tests found needed for the conditions of that particular driving situation.
These test results are programmed in as a multi-axis look-up injector pulse width needed “Map”.
The more you drift forced +/- % from the fuel map the more likely you are to cross a manufactures set point and trigger an alarm code.
Trigger a limp-in, or forces power shut down condition.
WHY the earlier electronic fuel injection systems ( like JO’s) without the extensive self-monitoring systems are kinder to alternatives fuel play around with.
Advantage of the later systems are you can actually live-drive scan your fuel trims and know you either have a failing fuel pump, or having into the intake false (unaccounted for) air leaks.
Regards
Steve Unruh
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Steve,
The airfilter box is empty, no sensor in there. So the only options now are the sensor is situated before the airfilter box or there is none at all. But wuld the OBD show the air “intake temperature malfunction” if there were no sensor?
I will look for that label when the night shift ends!
Fuel trim stays around 5% on petrol, and at about 40% on wood/hybrid. It is entirely possible that this is allso the reason for my rpm blockage the other day.
Yes, l admit this engine wuldnt be my first choise if l wuld buy a car for woodgas but l will try to make the most out of it. If nothing more, l have learned so much about woodgas and modern engines in the last few months, l think eaven if the Chevy never runs agen it was a great investment. And thats all thanks to the smart and helpfull guys from this site. My hat is off from you all, thank you so much!
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Kristijan, I’m having a hard time finding sensor info about Lacetti’s online. But, it looks like possibly the same engine was used in the Chevy Aveo, and I found a picture of the IAT for that engine. It’s in the tube leading to the throttle body.
Does this look at all familar?
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Familiar indeed, but l cant remember if there was this sensor in the hose or not. My memory says no.
Looks like lll have to look in the engine “recycle bin”.
Edit: l am 99% sure there was no sensor in the hose. And l am a 100% confused. Why does the air intake temp code show up then??
Thanks Chris
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