The methode to use nozzle groups on different heights in a “firetube” is nothing new; it has been used more than a hundred years ago in stationary plants… for suction-gas motors and other means…
I have very eager to see to what extent the air injection segonaire, happen to crack water and cool the gas
Your experience is very rewarding, thank you for sharing with us
Thierry
We had some suny days so much of the time got dedicated to prepareing hay in the past few days but l did manage to steal some time today for the project. l had an apointment at service to mount a towbar on the Lacetti today at noon and he nearly wuldnt have anything to mount it on. An idiot cut my way while driveing to the mechanic and it was literaly milimeters from disaster, scratched the car a bit he was lucky to get away before l got out of the car…
Anyway, the towbar is on an here is some progress;
Hi KristijanL. I think you are at least 50% undersized in diameter to get the force and sensitivity that you will need.
This is much discussed with pictures on topic “Vacuum Automixer Project”.
If this link works you will see directly pictures of Dutch John’s dual single action “Mickey Mouse Ears” system that he made up:
If not links search the topic under the magifing glass icon on the top tool bar for comment 22 out of 228.
Pictures of ChrisKY’s controller system build farther down on his topic.
JO this system will be mounted on the towbar.
The dimensions are 40x60cm giveing me about 1.5m2 of cooling area. I am now at a total of about 2,5m2 cooling area, hope that will be sufficiant. I am beting on high heat conductivity of aluminium and high speed air comeing from under the car.
Steve you confirmed my fears. But l only have enough place to put this size under the hood so will try it any way. If it doesent work l still can go with manual control. I calculated the force at 1/2 " h2o pressure difference to be 60 g (2oz) and will use a ball bearing style buterfly (borrowed that one from Chris S, hope you dont mind). Hope thats enough.
Hi Kristijan, yeah I’m pretty sure that’s too small. It will be less powerful, whether it can move the flap at all is in question. Mine with the ball bearings is right at 1/2" WC needed to move it… too close to your max capacity (air leaks, sticky bearings, etc). Ideally you want to be at least a 7" diameter. Mine is 9".
Don’t make the mistake from looking at DJs that the two diaphragms double the power. They do not.
Hi, Kristijan!
25.8.2016
Show the motor room from above, usually a place can be found.
By photos or video.
The piston rod has to be horizontal! Weight unsymmetry cannot be tolerated.
lf you look at the first picture, the box on the left bottom is paperfilter. The white is throtle body (wich l do not intend to touch) and the right black thing is an air intake for each cilinder. I havent yet opend it but the way it looks like the air has to swirl in it so this might be an advantige.
On the left syde of the rubber hose on pic 2 is the only possible place that MIGHT have enough room for an automixer, but all the other things have to come in there allso.
The engine compartment is not wood gas friendly… Lots of thinking.
Fun fun fun
ps; forgot to mention, this will me a hybrid not a 100%woodgas build.
More pictures > more suggestions & questions…
The left side is not yet explored!
The membrane and air valve has not to be near the suspender;
They can be pretty far from each another. The only thing of symmetry, besides the twinflap throats, is that the sampling hoses are taken from the same distance ahead of the double-throats.