Everyone must have gotten busy (er). I sure have.
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I had a spare plastic intake kicking around and decided to see how well it burned it took a lot to melt with a torch right on it and would only hold a flame with fuel added . made me feel better but I still haven’t tried to do a intake burnout still chicken,
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Paul, sooner or later you might have a event if it builds up in the manifold. How have you been keeping the carbon soot from building up? Hot Water into the manifold at high idle setting?
Bob
That ring of fire air supply must be keeping the reaction good and hot, i was just thinking of how one could try that ring of fire design on the restrictor double wall air feed. Or is that what you did, put another ring of fire just above the small reduction zone 6" above grait, looking at your ring of fire vidio i am not sure the location of the air ring, it looked like it is near the surface of the outer burn tube housing.? Good luck with the intake maintainance.
Paul, l too was thinking what wuld happen if the soot lights up in a plastic manifold. I think is shuld surveve but I dubt l will try 
Kevin, look at post no 881. There is a crossection of my current gasifier.
Thanks there Kristijan L. I seen that one though now i know more what you are working with in this model. Are you going too try a heated hopper,or is your hopper heated with this model.? Thanks again.
The above post i was asking if you have a heat jacket of some sort around the hopper? Thanks.
I have been removing the upper plenum at least twice a year and doing a cleanout recently I pulled the heads and lower intake to my surprise all looked good.
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Hi Kevin,
No, l actualy have a fan in the alubox to cool the hopper. I lack space so l have to be carefull of what l put in there.
I think the best way to make a drying hopper is like Max said, heat the wood from the center out, then condense the water on the wall or WK style.
A plank or pipes in the hopper that pass hot woodgas trugh the wood bed shuld do the trick.
That is if you have enough space ofcorse!
Thanks kristijan,the kooling hopper gas may be better way. For space and weight ballace, and the overall moisture heat ballance through the reduction zone. Though i had too try useing the heat at the hopper level, so sooner or later i may get time too try my latest heated hopper with the ceramic burn tube, after i get my wood stored up for winter.The max plank hopper heater may be my next trial as the unit i am building is limited rust time table.
How do you plan to heat it? Imbert style?
Thanks for asking, i have an outside jacket welded too the hopper for now. I may push or pull the hopper smoke through a cooler later if seems too need a change. I really dont vision what in inbert hopper heater looks like or is built like?.Could you exsplain?
I forgot too click on your name for the questain so i am here.Thanks.my heated hopper is on about pg 46 on down pages.fron the /A second cyclone Thread.
A lmbert style hopper is preety much what you did. The fuel is heated by hot gas, but the steam produced has to go trugh the char bed. It actualy prepares/dryes wood for the next run.
I think heating a hopper is a good idea. We have lots of exess heat from the gasifier, maybee eaven use exhaust heat to dry the wood, But we shuld then be able to condense all that moisture.
This is what Max was talking about. Imberts heated wood from outside in. It wuld be better to heat the wood it self from the center out and have a hopper wall cool in order to condense the liquid.
Or, in your case, add some WK tubes on.
I am looking forward to see more of this cheramic blanket insulated firetube resaults. I allso plan something similar in the near future.
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Thanks again krisijan, with all the cool weather in michigan i dought i will need any water too add too the fire being i seem too run border line dry wood.Though i will keep that thought at bay when testing.I agree with condencing, so i plan on running my hopper gas out through some tubes finned away from the heat and back too the hopper. Posibly with a piston type pusher.Or a smog pump as Matt Rider is useing.We heard Quite abit of good results, so i will see soon as i can, and will post result soon as examinded.
The steam passing trugh the hearth is not wanted! But as the lmbert has no other way of dispossl, it has to.
Hi Kristijan, just woundered about what is the max moisture wood content before your engine starts sputtering from week wood gas. I have too add some lower temp condencers or cyclones just before the motor as Matt, is useing too get more moisture out of my gas line before,spark plugs.
Hi Kevin.
Honestly, l never measured moisture content. If it seems dry enough to burn l will burn it. Its air dry firewood.
As for performance, l found moisture isnt as important as wood type and shape. I dont see much difference with my last years chunks or the ones l chunked green a week ago.
BUT! There is a enormous difference in wood type. Best are spruce limbs and beech. I think the reason is in the charcoal. Spruce limbs produce fluffy flakey charcoal, wery hot and reactive while wery breathable. This is what we want in a gasifier.
I allso found out that water in a engine is not problematic in terms of performance, if it is liquid. Water vapour however, is. Experianced this for the last month when we had 37c and the cooler is too hot to condense any water.
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Thanks Man, all that size wood usually gets dumped in a land fill after chipping too dispose of. I got some new pine on the way, it has thin bark, not sure though it might be white pine, havent chunked it yet.HWWT.
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Wonderful. Wonderful advice’s KristijanL.
So I get to go to sleep and rest now, right?
tree-farmer Steve Unruh
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