what do you think Goran, is my Fergie also for the museum? Fifty years old, he has to work every day, just like me, the same years, but work more and more.
. I call it the most modern technology in the place
13 Likes
Tone,
What building is that in the background? How old is it? Iāve seen it in your photos and videos before. I would like to see more photos of it some time.
4 Likes
First cucumber from the vines! Itās been raining every day for two weeks just about, so itās definitely over watered and not enough sunlight resulting in pale fruit.
9 Likes
We are overloaded with zuchinni this year and came across this recipe for zuchinni mock apple pie. Wow, it tastes just like real apple pie.
13 Likes
No, Tone, your Fergie are not ready for the museum, these are ātime-machinesā undestructable, real working horses
Ofcourse the museum i visited every tractor are in working order, and have to work for show purposes every summer, like a retirement 
Maybe this is a museum-piece? Munktellās type 30, 30hp two cylinder hot-bulb engine, i think itās the only one still existing, therefore they totally renovated it.
8 Likes
Care to share the receie Don?
3 Likes
Here you go Kristijan. Hope it works for you.
5 Likes
I assembled the Zetorn today, how long do you usually drive before pulling the cylinder head?
4 Likes
My standard procedure use to be: run it up to working temperature and after-torque the boltās still warm, loosen the boltās, one at a time, around 5Ā°,then thighten them to specified torque, this ofcourse isānt correct on all diesels, best is to check it up. Often depends of the valves should be set cold or hot, to.
4 Likes
Hmm, Iāve never pulled an engine hot, is that because itās a diesel, or do you do that on petrols too?
1 Like
Tightening the engine head bolts: imagine a long steel bolt as a spring that presses the engine head on the gasket with some force, regardless of whether the engine is cold or hot (when it is hot, this force is usually greater) the procedure is simple, all the screws are tightened evenly to a torque of 60 Nm, then each one is rotated by 90Ā° and we do it again, so the total angle is 180Ā°, in this way each of the screws is over-tensioned by approx. 0.5mm, which acts like a spring . Otherwise, I do not know the prescribed exact data for this engine, but they do not deviate much from my statement, the torque at the tightening point will probably be approx. 150Nm
5 Likes
Ok, mine is apparently supposed to be torqued to 176Nm, do you usually torque again after it warms up, Tone?
2 Likes
Jan, I donāt tighten anything more, because the screws are already pre-tensioned and there is no need for additional tightening, I do everything with a cold engine
2 Likes
If thereās no recomendations to āafter-tensionā you should be good to go, older Volvo-bm are sensitive, they should always be re-tightened.
I believe Zetor, separate heads should do fine with just one tightening?
2 Likes
Fellows there are a lot of DEPENDS to re-torquing cylinder head bolts.
No true modern designs do this anymore. Using non-compressing multilayered steel head gaskets. Using often one-use-only, stretch-to-yield cylinder head bolts. (will have a narrowed cross-sectional area)
If it is an old design with squishy compressible soft layered head gaskets . . . big thick cylinder head studs . . . best to re-torque if you can access the studs nuts. Hot? Cold? Refer to the manufacturer or head gasket supplier.
S.U.
8 Likes
I have to drop both the injectors and valves to get to the nuts, and it says nothing more than the torque in my book.
4 Likes
if you tightened the screws as indicated in the book, drive and donāt worry
6 Likes
Happiness is when itās the end of July and I need to light up the wood stove to warm up the house in the morning.
We woke up to 45ā° F. The high yesterday was 65ā° and today will be 74ā°
14 Likes
Does this mean the bugs will soon be gone for 7 monthes or so?
Bob
8 Likes
Not until September.
5 Likes