Lots of cool old cars, Super car show–I see the mazda- do your mazda have a heat exchanger.? I think we got a week or two before frost starts showing up.
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Yes, it does. Around the cyclone and its outlet pipe.
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Well, I ordered a Landworks chipper, the same type that @Matt tested and recommended. I’ve been needing a way to make my own mulch, and maybe tinker with getting a gasifier to run on classified chips and not bridge.
Waiting for it to arrive now. Hey Matt, how does the engine attach to the chipper itself? Is it direct coupled or belt/chain driven?
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It is direct drive…
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While @Jan has grey fields from first frost, temperature here makes our vineyards happy. So the harvest is in full steam ahead and must bubbles everywhere. Even in my shop 
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Exhibition day today!
Local farming/agricultural/forestry museum had a show, lot’s of fun old stuff running.
I displayed the woodgas truck, and some chainsaws.
Maybe some find it interesting?
Truck on display. Lot’s of woodgas talk today.
Some chainsaws
One of the museums old wood chunkers.
This chunker is of same make as mine.
It’s powered by this hot-bulb engine.
Another “vintage” wood-chunker.
This homemade trenching machine is one of my favourites
Three of the machines five (!) series mounted gearboxes, a real slow “walker”.
Posting this for Tone and Johan, an old straw-cutter.
I made some new friends.
Allis-Chalmers, built under license in Sweden. I believe this don’t stops for some snow-drifts.
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Thank you Göran, I like those shows but around here I always seem to find out that they have already happened when I hear about them.
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Be carefull with your new friends, they tend to disappear from time to time.
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Good looking wood gas truck, did you get any want to build one interest, did you get to start it up and do a walk around explaining. That bull dozer plow looks usefull- i wounder what year the plow dozer is.
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Here they use to dissapear around christmas time? 
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Hi Kevin, yes, a lot of interest, even asked if i build them on demand, for sale.
The plow is built 1942, for the military, when it retired it was working for a logging company, making logging roads in the winter, and pulling timber sleds. It got a six cylinder flathead engine.
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Another quarter mile, through some pretty lush bush. I think I took 14hrs and 35 gallons of fuel, to get through. I thought this was wetlands, but it is not. I discovered the low terrain to be a tight gravel/clay/cobble. The water vein was five feet down.
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Thanks for the pictures. Always surprise when I see US designed cars being restored in other countries. That 34 coupe even has a “chopped top” — kind of a US thing, I thought.
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Wow! TomC! Long time - no hear!
I was starting to worry. How are you doing?
Yes, old American cars have always been a thing around here. More expensive now - so not for everyone no more - but still plenty around.
Any frost yet in Crivitz Wi?
We’ve had a couple frosty nights for the past week or so. Time for me to retreat down to the boiler room again and feed the beast.
Hope you’re all doing well and keep up posting. We miss your contributions.
Greetings from Mid-Sweden
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Hi Tom, yes it is good to hear from you.
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Hey Tom, I thought about you just the other day, when I was thinking about a Kirby vacuum. 
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JO;Bob.and Al:Thank you for the kind replies. I never thought I would live to be so old and the best part is I’m still getting around ; much slower and not as steady on my feet, I try to get out to the shop for a couple of hours a day. I’m repairing a 2003 Chev trk with a V6. The plan was to develop a gasifier in my "94 Chev trk with a V6, and then duplicate it and put it in the 2003 with a computer system. Un fortunately, the 2003 has come to it’s “peak” too soon. I can peak through the wheel arches, cab corners, rocker panels, etc. Thank you Wisconsin for putting salt on our roads. This body work is not totally unrelated to gasifiers; I am having to learn how to weld sheet metal with a mig welder. I’ve always been a oxy/acet welder or SMA if welding thick material. These body shop people don’t try to “lay down a bead”, they use a series of “spot welds”. I didn’t think that system would get an AIR TIGHT weld, which is necessary when working on gasifiers.I’m learning that if you do this series of spot welds correctly and get “penetration”, they will hold wind. My problem is tying to get penetration and not “blow through”. Then in body work you have to grind the weld down until it is not visible. In sanding the weld, I often hit the metal on either side of the weld which makes the metal thinner and if I have to re-weld between “spots” I definitely will blow a hole.
I get a summary of the Drive On Wood e-mails and I find there are so many new people that I haven’t followed. That made your replies have so much more meaning for me.
Oh! I guess I will share a truth with you-- I don’t have alzheimers, but my memory is a little less than what you would hope for. When I go back through the posts that I have made and show up in the summary, I have no recollection of posting them. Sometimes I think,“what the hell was I saying?”, and then other times, “Wow! That was quite good”
Well one thing that hasn’t changed about me— I still talk too much.
Thanks again for the replies. TomC
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HI TOM Collins-Glad to here your still able to get out in the shop and get projects going- i bet you like mig welding once you get the hang of it–I got an old century mig 220 volt and 220 amp roll around transformer mig-Its a bit hard to dial in for sheet metal- i welded some fuel oil drum steel in the corner of the door on my dakota project, about a 2" peice was missing / rusted off. It piled the weld up by triggering on and off the mig wire- i think i piled the wire up about just over 1/8" - though my milwalki 4" battery grinder- it was easier to focus on grinding the high weld spot much better- well good enough ,i can smooth it out with bondo, and i will under coat the inside of the door,to prolong the rust from returning–Gess i been building my own cars this way since teen age years- then i mig welded makeing car part racks , and tanks and parts in other welding shops for about 15 years- easy for me to say-mig welding fun.
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Hi Tom, real glad to hear from you! I too was starting to worry… good to see you sharp as always.
I usualy weld thin material as you described. Spot after spot. I like to overlap the metal and hit the edge of the top first to melt it and get a wider bead, more contact area. Does that make sence?
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