Göran, could you please describe the speed controller panel? I’d be interested in knowing more about the instrumentation you’ve built.
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Here is a bonus:
You may recognize the feeling?
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Hi Hans, i may draw a simple schematic?
In short it’s just switches that shifts, for example fuel pump, 1-powered as standard.
2-off. 3-fuel pump powered by pwm module.
Other 3-way switch: 1-injectors powered. 2-off. 3-injectors powered and pwm module powered.
The other switches is: on for shutting off the temperature gauges, one for each temperature gauge, shifting between 2 “channels” (2 different thermocouples on each gauge)
The others is extra switches (always good to have if i come up with new ideas)
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I love it
Plus 20 characters
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Thank you! Very nice!
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I don’t have a wood gas vehicle but I still had to get a lemon out of the fridge because of the smile you gave me. 
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Goran, you are a savage 
l know some people eating onions like that but a lemon is a first
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Yes, 
crazy Viking. Good morning:grinning:
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Hey Goran. I watched your roto-tiller video. I think you are going to need more ass to stop that thing from dragging you around. You could maybe harness it to a bull and fertilize as you tilled. 
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that tiller is unstoppable ))
may be some sort of “anchor” could help.
a couple of cultivator tines or simple steel rods attached to the back of that machine.
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That is the steering. 
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Well, then you haven’t seen it grab the grass-turf, and jump several feet forward, next landing it grabs even harder, and jumps double distance (around here i usually loose the grip and land on the ground, face first)
Good thing is second landing it usually falls on its side, and just spins around like a road-wounded animal.
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I used to have a Troy-Bilt tiller many years back. As the tires moved forward the tines spun in reverse. I guess the one thing counteracted the other. Worked good.
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Wich video are we talking about? Think l missed something?
But l did find my self in the description. Was it something with those wheal less rototillers? If so, l operated an ainciant one the other day for the first time ever and experianced just what Goran described, there is even video of it but l think it will stay in private collection
We later learn why there is a metal legg/ancor behind it. First we tryed without it. Pain is a wonderfull teacher
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It is properly called a “drag-stake”.
The end of it as can be seen can be improved.
And as seen it only works after the surface sod-grass is sacred enough to allow it to dig-in and be able to hold back. Hand pick-axe some first. Then till really, really slowly:
Or just sell/trade-off/retire-park a “classic front tine tiller” to a wheel driven rear tine one.
I did. For full range of usages dual direction tines powering is helpful. And use of the drag-stake still gets used a lot. Useages shown from 4:00 minutes and on:
Ha! Far easier to work up ground and put into growing seeds than keep-it weeded!
Having Fun With Small INTERNAL COMBUSTION Engines
S.U.
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I like the theory, with one reservation. We have a Troy-Bilt tiller, bought the first year we market gardened. I’m smart (in my own mind only, unfortunately 
) because I read books. They convince me that no-till is the “right” thing to do. That first year I watched my family (me too) fight weeds like we had never seen before. Rather than watch my family collapse under the load, we bought the Troy-Bilt. It did help, but didn’t solve the problem. Later, we were given a BCS. Much nicer tool (much more expensive, too). It works a little better, but we still have lots of weeds. I really don’t remember the Troy-Bilt taking off on its own, but the BCS, with more power, will run like a rabbit if you try to push the tines deeper. They rotate in the same direction as the wheels, but a lot faster. When you push down, you lift the wheels, and it runs forward on the tines, and I do mean run. Once it starts to get away from you, the wheels drop, and it slows to normal. The thought of that happening with backward turning tines is sobering. If it heads back in the operator’s direction, the wheels will drop and and stop it, but it wouldn’t take much to ruin your whole day. Both tillers are fine tools, but I wear boots with either one.
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Haha, that’s exactly my thinking. Often I don’t understand why my ideas aren’t more appreciated
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Kent, l think any extreme is not ideal. Deep tillage is bad, but so is overly compacted weeded no till sistem. I have found that its not a bad idea to get a combination of the sistems, perhaps also rotate them.
This year, my tractor pto axle broke so l culdnt rototill one small patch in time. Onions to be planted. I avoid the plow because my plow goes in too deep for my taste. A neighbour chimed in and plowed the feald for me, l was amazed. He plowed like 2" deep, just skiming the grass and turning it upside down, it was like a carpet. That kind of tilling l got nothing aginst.
Spent 2 days then trying to perfect my plow and my technick, that same neighbour helped me too. Forged, bent, set, test… We came to a conclusion that unfortunaly it looks like the plow is just shit will require the entire geometry to be reforged. Next year…
For sowing feald crops like wheat or this year feald peas, l like to mow any residue and broadcast the seed over no tilled ground, then run over with my tractor rototiller on highest setting, about 2". Gets the seed tilled in while its still preety much a notill sistem. So far this has worked exelent for me and is also way way faster thain having to plow everything. Sure there is a weed or two but so is with tilling. And if the timing is right the crop outruns most weeds
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Thanks for the comments, Kristijan. This is about the conclusion I’ve reached also. No-till works great for soil building, if you can keep enough mulch down to prevent weeds taking over. But if there’s enough mulch for weed control, planting becomes difficult unless you have a no-till drill (on the back of your 250 hp tractor) to plant through it. Or you can do it by hand with a quality hoe. Option #1 breaks the bank, Option #2 breaks the back. at least my aging back. So we do the best we can, and thank the Lord for the harvest.
The system I like best is: If you can’t fix it, feature it. That first year of market gardening, we had the massive weed problems. A lot of the weeds were “pig weed,” Red-root Amaranth, and Lamb’s Quarters. Turns out, when our area was first settled by Europeans, both of these were eaten by the “pioneers.” So that year we featured “Pioneer Greens.” My memory is flakey, but we sold either $250 or $500 worth of weeds, with a good demand from repeat customers. Yes, we did tell everyone what it was before they bought any
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The rear tine reverse tillers move slower, but you have quite a bit more control in hard compacted ground. You don’t have to fight it to keep it from moving too fast.