Mike, lingonberry jam is the original. As I understand it lingonberries grow only on this side of the pond and plenty of it - they grow only wild as far as I know. Ripes quite late in the summer. Somewhat acidic and perfect to any meaty dish or blood sausage, as well as baked into bread or mixed into your morning yoghurt. Also, they never go bad - well, at least not at the rate I eat them 
Edit: As usual the store bought stuff is mostly sugar-slime. Donât expect to get the real thing at IKEA.
Vaccinium vitis-idaea, the lingonberry, partridgeberry, foxberry, mountain cranberry or cowberry, is a small evergreen shrub in the heath family Ericaceae. It is native to boreal forest and Arctic tundra throughout the Northern Hemisphere, including Eurasia and North America.
Sean, Iâm old(fashioned) enough I sometimes forget about Google
here the same.
The conversation was about a man around here that almost owns the entire kitchen/interior stores and has a working area in the total BeNeLux. A big guy in short (litarly), and he sometimes makes jokes about the Swedish meatballs. But that is just arrogance. He is not that big. And then we wanted to know if he is active all around the world.
Anyway, Ikea is a good store to buy a new kitchen or something, but meatballs with jam?
Lets try this. Sorry guys, more serious now
Those are tasty 
i always buy those if we are going on a roadtrip or walk.
A lot off added stuff though, i once found a un-opened bag of them in my winter fishing back-pack, altought 4 years old they tasted good.
my eco period is over, it is allowed to consume all the highway numbers
Since summer we are working like maniacs. My co worker was able to make 80 extra hours last month 
. That means I did 100 or more . To old for that crap and decided it is time for some playing. To do list is getting shorter, some dayâŠ. Anyway, you guys may like this.
Need some help from any modern mechanics. My wife was out yesterday in her 2015 Nissan rogue and it went into limp mode about 8 miles from home. She made it back home like that but it wouldnât idle at all. Itâs has been raining on and off for 4 days. The check engine light did not come on. I went out this morning and it started and still wouldnât idle or maintain rpm. I petaled it up to 5000 rpm a few times and shut it off. Checked fluid levels and air filter. All fine. Started it back up and itâs running normal now. I have MAF cleaner and Iâll pull the MAF and spray it. Itâs our only highway vehicle and she doesnât want to use it until she knows she wonât get stranded. Any ideas?
Too many possibilities to pin down TomH.
Iâve had vehicles that would never turn on a $check engine$ light yet still gave intermittent problems.
Other vehicles with time age and milages always turning on the $$$$$ $$$$$$ lights. Weakening catalytic converters. Clear the code. And drive on.
Your best bet will be going onto Nissan Rogue owners forums searching for a similar problem. How Iâve found solutions to common pattern problems specific to a model.
Hopefully just a tweaky single sensor. Only replace with OEM upgraded.
And hope your problem is NOT a now worn, failing CVT. The true Rogue killers.
S.U.
My money is on the CVT or the timing chain/belt.
The car only has 36000 miles and itâs been well maintained. I pulled the sensor and sprayed it. Car was running fine before that so I guess Iâll have to wait and see if it screws up again. Iâll probably do the driving for a while as much as I hate going out into the world. I did look at the nisssan forums Steve. All pretty much the usual suspects. As long as they have all those sensors they should at least set a code so you know whatâs what. I thought that was a given with ECMâs.
Hi All,
After âthe gales of November came earlyâ the last two weeks of October thru yesterday now Mr Sun is finally out for couple of days:
This afternoon after drying some Iâll be winter taking down my flag up since the 4th of July and Memorial days.
Weather like most other Life conditions you just must endure through to get to the sunny side.
Regards to all
Steve Unruh
First question because Iv seen this far to many times to disregard it
Does the check engine light work
Cycle the key to on position the CEL should illuminate for a brief period then turn off
My wifeâs Chevy Aveo the CEL has been in op since we got it 5 years ago and I wasnât aware cause I donât drive it. Started going into limp mode and I scanned it to find a plethora of ghost codes been set over the years from a faulty MAP sensor. explains the random hard shifts and not shifting up going up hill and wife had been experiencing limp mode intermittently.
I just told her for the last year out of laziness to tell me about it when the light comes on so I have something to go off of. Car would never go into limp when I drove. Probably took a few years life off the transmission for my own stupidity
Good call, sometimes the simple things are overlooked and nobody asks because we just assume it working. I always sayyou arenât going hurt my feelings by asking because if i had the answers i wouldnât be asking for help
Yes. The check engine light comes on when you turn the key. I have never had a problem with other vehicles that if something went wanky it didnât set a code. I just have an 80 dollar code checker so that will only read a set code. There is a local auto repair place but I donât know how high tech their equipment would be and they still charge over a hundred bucks to plug it in. Iâm not sure how the trans is involved with this. Someone explain please. Anyway Iâll drive it around a while within a few miles of the house so I can at least walk home if it screws up. I drove it to TC and back Sunday and it ran fine. Running fine right now. We keep the gas tank topped off every time we go to town.
Transmission mention was just anecdotal on my part
How the transmissions effect:
Monitored is the input speed versus the desired output speed. These vary too much from slippage and the engine power is reduced to prevent a hard transmission failure and transmission overheating. That âlostâ speed/power being turned into friction heat instead.
Monitored is also the transmission fluid temperature. Temp goes too high and again the engine power will be reduced. For the same save-the-baby reasons.
Now transmissions WITH fluid dip sticks the overheated fluid can be seen by heat expanding to, too high of levels. By the smell of overheated burning fluid on the dip stick. Did that one myself running my 94 Ford pickup back and forth 25 miles to work and back, held shifted in 2nd range continuously in a bad, long extended series of late winter snow storms. Put it into limp-in mode. Ekkk! Had to flush the fluid 3 times to get all of the burnt damaged stinking fluid out. Never had been quite the same since. Planetary gears, clutches versus even more sensitive CVTâs cones/spiral drives and chains the same-same for monitoring input versus desire out speeds and overheat fluid damaging. Both can internally shed metal slivers circulating in the fluid.
Dumb-dumb going to no fill-port/no-dipsticks systems. This was a planned obsolesce change regardless of how they spun it as âSealed. Fluid for Lifeâ Bull Shit!! All fluids with usages age change. All fluids with usage will become wear metals contaminated.
S.U.
No trans dipstick huh. Guess what I spent about 5 minutes trying to locate yesterday. 
Even these can be done.
They will have either a bottom drain plug hole; or a side fluid level plug hole.
Most with the only bottom hole types you drain and pumped; or squeezed bottle fluid refill through that same hole. Using a J-ended hose or tube. Toyotaâs mostly even have a removable stand pipe insert to get a clean drain out. Pumped up and in until the level over spills the stand pipe/tube height.
The wife Ford Edge does have a dipstick/fill. But no drain. You are expected to pan drop to drain. I vacuum pump suck these.
Now her separate heavy gear fluid APU right angle drive unit only has a side level checking plug. No drain. At ~7 year into ownership when I realized she was going to take it out to 10 year usage; unit HOT I made up a narrow diameter polyethylene tube tip to suck it out. Looked like silver fluid from all of the 175K accumulated gear and bearing metals shedding.
Took three fills; drive; circulate and re-heat, then suck outs to get it looking clean.
Then became an end-of-summer pain I was doing annually. Having to heat thin the 75W140 synthetic to get it to flow re-fill.
Same for the rear two chambers viscous coupling and rear differential gears box.
Messy jobs. With pain pills for the old body pretzeled doing the gymnastics.
S.U.
Read the comments too for advices.
How about a loose/dirty battery connection? Had a similar issue once. After loosing power the computer reset while the engine was hot. The car could not idle and would stall. I had to reset the computer while cold to get the car running well again.
