Ooooh! Yeah I thought you were reverting back to a simple design. lol
Ok what you may need to do is a add some sort of spreading device inside to span out the mist or cone.
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Yeah before you get too crazy changing things. Run observe, run some more observe, and repeat. Dont chase your tail around it maybe fine the way it is just need to learn a bit and tune till it works. 
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Have you used those spiral spray nozzles for anything Matt? In the 1980’s I was installing industrial paint systems for Binks Manufacturing. I think they initially designed that nozzle and had a patent for it. Of course it was much bigger and used in small parts, water wall sprays booths. They required considerable water pressure to work right but put out a fan shaped wall of water which overspray was then pulled through and encapsulated. Brought back memories.
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No but keep in mind there is also air mixing with a only a very small amount of water. The idea is simply to get the water to spread out for a larger nozzle size and it must be passive. Its does not even need to be atomized very much. All we want is the water not settling in the bottom. We want a full spiritic coating and I think this this nozzle will work well. I have used them for the fluid filter’s I used to build.
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Good job Cody, all off the shelf items like Matt’s, I like that.
Bob
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Just wished it had worked. Oh well. I’ll save this injector for another charcoal build, maybe for a Svedlund or Mako copy? Who knows.
I would not give up so easy. Id give a few more runs and see what happens. Play with the hole openings. Higher air velocity = better atomization. Ive done that way to many times and find the thing I thought was the issue was not the issue at all. Clogged up filter could have caused your crash for instance or maybe a fouled spark em plug. Stupid stuff like that will kick your butt.
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I did shake off my bag filter, but it was completely weak gas and killed the engine going down the road.
Also with the other end being open on the nozzle I think it can’t build up enough velocity. Might go with a little mister and pump like the MGB. Right now I just rest the stainless pipe in the nozzle once I set my drip.
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Yeah Ok you cant have that other end open. There must be a high amount of velocity to carry in the water and break it up. Yeah if its just dripping off the end of the feed tube its not working. On mine that water is broke up immediately into a mist.
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Can you install a valve on that other end? Maybe restrict the other end to equalize both air inlets?
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I could but I dont know how that would affect the balance of air to the flute holes. Kristijan has noticed with closed off ends it will bring in more air in closer holes than others.
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Based on how much char is used up it looks like I’ll get about 80 miles to the hopper give or take. Using the halfway point between the top of the nozzles and where the lid stops. Can’t wait to get a raw wood unit built because my fuel prep time would be cut in half easily.
Not sure what I’ll do with this unit when I’m done with having it on the Mazda, maybe with a combination of exhaust return and water drip to keep my reaction temps low it’ll work in a larger engine? Has 5 .5" holes in the flute and room to drill more.
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Its the other way around. The air slaming in the back wall of the flute seems to make the last few holes to blow stronger. Its why l gradualy lower the hole diameter towards the end.
Hey, try it. It only costs you a plug. The worst thing that can happen is the last hole(s) burns so much hoter it melts ash to slag. No big deal…
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Somewhat off topic to the Mazda and my other project, but I’m treating this topic as a containment zone for my kooky plans.
I’m going to be making a copy of Joni’s chip gasifier for my 10hp Briggs. Since the carburetor is busted, I have an adapter that bolts up just fine to the Briggs’ intake and I can use a ball valve as my throttle. The engine will 90% of the time be at full tilt so I’m not that concerned with the in between sensitivity. It will be purely powered by producer gas.
I’m signing up for Chipdrop so I should have the right sized fuel for it soon.
This will go on my little garden truck goof-off project. The engine is electric start so I shouldn’t have much trouble. I will look for a rope start add on though. I should have the Mini Joni built and tested before I get the Mazdas wood reactor finished just due to the simplicity of the design.
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Also since my truck bed doesn’t have convenient post holes I’ll probably just weld or bolt in some D rings to the bed to support my cooling rails. I’m also just going to copy the WK layout because why reinvent the wheel? I’ll just need to get creative on how I’ll add a condensate tank on the underside, or since my Mazda is basically a Ute already I’ll lay the tank in the bed itself by the tailgate. Tailgate handle is broken anyways! 
I’ll see how it turns out as I’m building on it.
Also need to get some blind-spot convex mirrors to add to my side mirrors. My rearview will be even more worthless once I finish the raw wood unit.
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Got most of the Joni gasifier planned out and ready to weld. He says it’ll run 300-500cc engines and I’m really tempted to not only test it on the Briggs engine but also on my Vulcan. I’d need to branch the intakes to one carburetor before that though. It’s ran on one cylinder before and it is NOT fun. Found out why that poor Kawasaki isn’t running well and it’s because the diaphragm in the double carb is damaged from dryrotting. Haven’t found a rebuild kit for the top end of these, but I’m not looking that hard.
Intake runners for the Vulcan use rubber couplers to the carbs so I could just weld up a Y pipe that’ll go with them. Has decent room between the battery box and the back of the engine I could figure out when I’m stumped on something else. Just more ponderings.
I’m also wondering how well this single nozzle would do with wood pellets. I know they have a lot of hidden moisture and other garbage in them so my expectations are low for that.
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Yup!! 2018 I transitioned to pellets. Developed my reactor using a batch of pellets that came from old stock. I had one ton of them. That year I brought the very prototype to Argos and that thing ran all day long for like 8 hours. Not one drop of tar and it only dropped a table spoon of condensate that looked like weak tea. That unit went to MIT and they were developing a tar cracking system. The unit ran to clean and they were pissed. lol
Than what happened? I dont have a clue but suddenly pellets quit working, I chased my tail around until I gave up. I think as cost went up they started adding in binders is my suspicion and I think others have noted the same thing. When those pellets produce tar it is like no other. Yeah just yank the head off, cause you are not getting that valve free unless you do so. That stuff sets up like concrete. That was the last straw before I scrapped raw fuels all together and went charcoal.
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Recycle Plastic if not called plastic would make a good binder. What ever the change was they had a plan behind it. MAKING MORE MONIES. Why didn’t you go with making your own with the pellet mill?
Bob
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I dont have a pellet mill and no investor to buy one. I cant afford one I cant afford to even build my own gasifier let alone purchase a mill.
Does not matter anyways, I will never build a raw fuel system unless I develop some sort of hybrid. One drop of tar over the entire life of the gasifier is unacceptable. I no longer will ever support raw fuels machine’s. Ive torn down enough engines, that tar builds up inside and can never get out. Good enough for the DIY’ers but not good enough as a consumer grade product it must never ever produce one tiny bit of tar ever.
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