I’ve been idling the Mazda every now and then to keep the battery tended. When i first installed the Edelbrock pump it took almost 4 minutes to get to the carb. Hope that won’t happen again. Maybe having the original filter with the Edelbrock filter is slowing it down too much.
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When was the last time the original filter was replaced, never right. I would replace it, it is overdue.
Bob
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Original filter was replaced this year, I’ve maybe put 1000 miles on it since then.
I think I’ll just take it out anyways. The Edelbrock has a filter right before the pump and is easily replaced. I can just save this one for when I may need to use the mechanical pump again.
The fuel filter for this little truck is one of those paper filters that’s located inside the cab. But since this pump is only 3.5psi Maximum then I’m sure it’s putting some drag on the system.
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I really got lucky ordering this roll cage kit. The main hoop fits snug on the sides, which I feel is a good thing for lateral stresses, it can lean on the rest of the body if it comes down to it.
Height looks good as well. The legs aren’t terribly long so I may have to weld steel blocks to the frame to get it to reach the feet of the hoop and then weld the feet to the blocks. I don’t want to just attach it to the floor pan and have it crumple under me.
The A Pillar supports also look good. I can use them as places to mount my extra gauges and choke cables. It’s already been coped out where it matters but even if it wasnt I could have done that myself with my jig.
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Ordered an exhaust temp gauge and a mechanical coolant temp gauge. The vendor for the coolant temp gauge says that the probe is mechanical and the only 12v it uses is the backlight. Hopefully I have enough run of cable to reach the hopper for it.
The exhaust temp gauge is pretty simple, just a digital readout and an ungrounded probe. I’ll probably run this right after the dropbox unless someone has a better idea for a location.
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I think I’ve found a carburetor that I could use in place of this nice Weber.
I could buy a single barreled Super Beetle carb and have it side by side on a plenith with a wood gas valve. I’ll have it tie in to the same air filter.
With the way my system is set up I already have the Weber almost entirely leaned out, I think with a little playing around I can make this 1600cc sized carb work for my 2 Liter engine.
Either way I could set up the gasoline to the pedal and use a lever throttle for the woodgas, or vice/versa. I think a woodgas lever would work better for flow personally. No such thing as a woodgas accelerator pump so jamming on the pedal doesn’t do that much good in my experience.
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Cody, l was wery satisfyed with the double flap manifold l had in my Mercedes. Check it out, its not a too complex sistem yet its designed so one gas pedal operates the carb and woodgas, hands free.
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I see what you mean now, slaving both throttles to the same pedal. I was considering that too since the new carb would be single barrel it wouldn’t have all the extra throw needed like my Weber does.
For your setup did you close off the air to the gasoline side to prevent lean conditions?
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Here is how Mother Earth News configured their truck. This is publicly available for download I just made it into a shareable image for this site.
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The Mercedes had a mechanical injection, called K jetronic. And the video shows how it operated with that. However, at one point l somehow got water in the fuel tank (l suspect kids had to do something with it) and the delicate fuel metering head died. I then threw it out and installed a double barrel Lada carb. The mechanism stayed the same, l just hooked the lever to the carbs flaps and left the original throtle plate permanently open.
In practice, this looked like this. First half of the pedals travel opened the woodgas throtle plate 0-100%. Pressing the pedal more started to open the carb. Pressing it to the floor opened the carb 100% while closing the woodgas some.
With the original injection this worked perfectly as the original TB sealed 100%. With the carb, there was always suction on the carbs idle channel. So the engine always idled on gasoline, wich was both good and bad. There was always some suction on the idle port but much less when engine was under load as there isnt much vacuum in the manifold.
On long drives l killed the fuel pump and drove on 100% woodgas, once the carb bowl was empty. But in reality l rarely bothered, l kinda liked a good strong gasoline enhanced idle.
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What kind of milage did you achieve with such an arrangement? I know I’m using a little gasoline since I run through the carb but I’m fine with it, not perfect but it sure takes the gasoline a lot further then before!
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Im realy not the best refference to compare. Our land is just hills and valeys so its still gonna burn a lot of petrol. But if l remember right it cut petrol consumption about 2/3.
Ha, my Škoda does a lot better now! Its the first vehicle l owned that l can have the tank dry and not worry about it. Its gonna take a few more minutes to drive home but l know l can get there if needs be 
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Needs-be’s.
Needs-must’s.
Much, much, better motivators the grand idealisms.
S.U.
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By the way Kristijan I think your setup is much more simple/reproducible. I’ll probably make the carbs side by side. I should check eBay for a junked VW carburetor and just use one of those as my woodgas throttle. Then it would have the same throw direction and be easier to slave together.
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If you have the obtion to put them side by side, absolutely! Its a peace of cake then. I didnt. There was this huge fuel metering head ovet the manifold, only space was underneeth.
Wuld it maybee be better to use a small fuel injected engines throtle body? Less bulky thain a carb and usualy they have a way to clamp on a air hose.
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I am keeping my eye out for one. Asked a few of the packrat mechanics at my work if they have any.
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Got my mechanical water temp gauge in. The 12v really is just for illumination. Tested in some boiling water. Reads from 130-280F.
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Hey Cody, l just remembered. Why not get a big double barrel carb and use one barrel for gas and one for woodgas? Its what l planned for my carbourated Škoda, untill l wrecked it 
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Only challenge would be to isolate the barrels well enough to keep from clogging the gasoline jets. I know MEN also did this for a generator build if I recall correctly.
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This is really me coming up with a way to find a carburetor that likes the restrictive amount of air my system has and also bring up liquid fuel efficiency. With my Weber I have it all the way lean and it still sounds rich. I could of course re jet it but the Weber also takes up a lot of space and requires all these adapter plates which adds to the height. With a plenith it would also add height but I’m afraid it would be too tall after its all said and done. Comparing in videos I noticed the VW carb isn’t terribly tall and it already has a barb for putting on an intake hose, with the Weber I had to put on an adapter hat.
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