That’s another thing I’m going to address when it’s time to rebuild. I actually need to double check and see if the kit comes with new valve guides and seals.
Smoking isn’t terrible after it’s warmed up but I do get a little poot of it when I hit the throttle.
Also keep in mind I don’t have a CAT so maybe that plays a factor?
As far as viscosity goes I’ve been using Mobil-1 15w40 Diesel synthetic oil that I get from work. Techs throw out the bottles with a few ounces still in them because they get rushed.
I also run a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil to degunk this engine. Not sure what the viscocity would be after 1/4 of the oil is MMO but it’s probably as thin as 5w30 I would guess.
I find doing replacing your own valve guides pretty iffy. I always just had them done at the machine shop. Not that pricey and then you know they are sized right. Sizing your guides with out the right equipment is a crap shoot in my opinion and you are not going to know if they are good until you get the engine running again.
Could just be that I have a beak, feathers and lay eggs.
Okidoke so I finally got my spare intake manifold in.
The EGR port is incredibly small. The bottom port I have no idea where it leads to but it leads to a port going to the block. Not sure about any of that.
Orifice that actually goes to the intake is 13mm in diameter and it hits a cast in barrier as pictured with my chopstick indicator.
The bottom orifice leads to this port right here.
The other two ports of the same size are part of coolant flow. I have no clue if this is how the EGR got exhaust gas or if this is some sort of other preheating mechanism or what.
What I’m wondering is, if I can simply block off this orifice and wallow out the two holes to make a bigger port for woodgas to flow into?
I took a look at some photos of a cylinder head for this year and that orifice does lead into the head.
It’s very confusing because it’s just an open hole. There’s no way the EGR just went into one cylinder? Was this for vacuum pressure?
Very vexing.
I’ve been searching on eBay and Ithink I’ll order an old rebuilt Ford Pinto carburetor. The Holley made Weber clones. Since MEN’s instructions are for the water temp choke pinto carbs for the 2bbl I’ll just do a direct copy. The 32/36 I have is electric choke so there may be subtle but big differences in passageways and jets.
I can nab a pinto Holley on eBay rebuilt for 99 bucks it seems so that’s not so bad. And it’ll keep me from wrecking my relatively new Weber.
My only other options it seems would be to make a whole new port for woodgas to come in, probably from the bottom. I would just need to mill out a flat spot for a flange and drill a hole. Route that and add a homemade woodgas mixer throttle.
I had a 1977 Chevette. POS but had a holly-weber 5210C carb. Just one more data point for you.
Rindert
The more I think about it the more I want to leave the Weber alone as much as possible. I have two manifolds now so if I goof it up I have the original. Going to try to make a spot for an intake. It’ll be dead center 180 degrees of the carburetor so I know the flow will be balanced for the most part. Plus I have a ton of room beneath the manifold, only thing I can think of that is even remotely in the way is the oil filter but that’s almost 8 inches below the intake.
Edit: Just had another good look at the spare intake, looks like the water jacket has foiled me again.
I keep staring at the EGR port and I think I may be able to drill it out to 30mm for a custom throttle. I laid my calipers over the hole checking out the wall between the two ports and it may just barely miss the separating wall. If I have to I can lay down some JB weld or aluminum braze to build it back up and simply plug off that port entirely.
Scouring Mazda mini truck forums I found out that port goes to the #1 Exhaust port. I have a Pacesetter Header exhaust so this no longer works so I’m going to plug off that bad boy and mill away to my heart’s content.
What I’ll probably do is at the flange side of the manifold I’ll tap the hole for a flush plug or big grub screw. I can also plug up all the extra vacuum ports that I don’t need.
For my distributor advance I’ll use a manifold port instead of the carburetor’s port so I’ll know for sure it’s getting proper vacuum.
Cody,
Careful! That manifold probably isn’t aluminum. Its zinc. So don’t try to aluminum braze on it. I know this from working in a foundry. Under hood parts I grew up thinking were aluminum are all zinc, usually ZA-30 alloy.
Rindert
Do you think that a plug made from allthread and the regular 24hr cure JB weld will hold it in? The port going to exhaust is an odd size so I can’t readily tap it for a plumbing plug.
The reason why I say a piece of allthread for the plug is so the JB weld can grip on it. I would plug it in recessed. I’d try to plate it off entirely but I don’t know how thick the gaskets are and I think the gasket isn’t metal.
Cody,
I have a 1991 Ranger 2.3L, probably very similar to your 2.0L. If you’re just going to block off the egr port on the manifold it isn’t going to get hot so not very difficult. I would cut a block off plate out of 16ga and make gasket out of thin cardboard, like from a cereal box. If I remember right the other end of the egr tube attaches to the exhaust manifold using an A/N style connector. I know a few surplus stores around here where I would look for a cap to close up the hole.
Rindert
I’m going to use the EGR port as my woodgas in, I want to block off the #1 port on the flange side of the manifold so I won’t have to worry about any weird exhaust leaks going into the intake and throwing off fuel mixture.
Until I take off the intake manifold that’s currently on the engine I won’t know if that port is already blocked, I suspect it is since it has a plain tube steel header now instead of the cast exhaust manifold.
The other reason for blocking off this port is so I can mill out and combine the fresh air side of the EGR and the exhaust side so woodgas wouldn’t be flowing through a 13mm hole and instead maybe a 30mm hole or better.
The spot labeled #1 Exhaust is where the EGR valve siphoned exhaust gas from the #1 cylinder to mix into the intake manifold. It also had those stainless steel tubes but those ran at the combined end of the exhaust manifold and went into the original air cleaner body, probably more for air preheating than for EGR itself.
I’m going to check the parts stores and try to find a freeze plug that I could insert and crimp into place with an expander or JB weld it down.
I did not know that Rindert.
I think I’ve found a safer solution. Looking at the gasket for the EGR I’ve found that the 13mm hole has a thin wall and if I were to just mill out this portion and not touch the exhaust gas portion I would have roughly a 2x.625 inch rectangular hole for the woodgas. Area of 1.25. This gives me a pipe area equivalent of a 1.25 inch or 31.75mm ID tube. I think this will be sufficient for flow. Hardest part will be figuring out how to go from such a narrow rectangle to a round pipe and I may need to use a rubber portion for that like a heater hose to bridge the two.
Edit: I’ve remembered a way to get the transition from round to rectangular and maintain a smooth transition for the gas. A youtuber named Mustie1 did a diy fishtail exhaust pipe by cutting a slit lengthwise in the end, spreading it open and welding in some sheet metal to branch it out. Made it look like the mouth end of an old vacuum cleaner. I can put in the butterfly for the woodgas throttle in the cylindrical portion right before it tapers open to the port to prevent as much lag as possible.
If I do it right I can also block off the exhaust side of the EGR system with the flange for this piece.
Edit 2: I am going to try to make a video documenting this process for fishtailing open a pipe. I’m sure this can be done a million ways but I think this form factor can be invaluable to some applications in woodgas plumbing.
I’m starting to think a guy doesn’t need doors. Falling out? That’s what seatbelts are for.
I might eventually put the door back on but I think I’m going to gut the windows out of them. They’ll never track again and without the frame they’ll just get broken sooner or later.
I’ll just cut the window frame portion out and make them into purely a barrier between me and random crap in the road.
I may go with no doors Cody but I’ll really like a seat and I believe you need to rethink that roll bar set up. Look like it would make steering a little more challenging.
LOL, roll bars aren’t installed yet I’m just storing them inside to keep the rain off.
As for the seat, it’s in the carpentry shed. I need to find a waterproofing spray or treatment that I can put on it.
Also fixed the tailgate handle while I was out here. Out sick today from the pukes. Probably the Chinese food I ate.
Alright so I’m tired of looking at my Mazda sitting there doing nothing. She’s still tagged and I’ve been paying insurance on it.
Instead of getting a new windshield and having to fit the A pillars back to the truck I’m going to make my own stanchions, Model T style flat windshield but I’ll just use plexiglass or lexan or something. While I’m at it I’m going to remove my window glass from my doors, cut off the window framing and put in a plastic cover where the window wipes used to go, somewhere an arm can be rested for comfort.
I just hope the few electronics and wiring won’t be hurt by rain. I have my fuel pump switch mounted low near the steering wheel right now. Maybe I should block off the heat vent to keep rain out of there.
I can do most of this on the cheap, I have some tubing laying around that should make a decent steel part of the frame and the backing I believe is made out of plywood or plank.
I saw this image on Facebook parketplace of a 52 Chevy made into a rat rod Ute. Has a T style old school windshield.
I’ll already be miserable in the elements might as well be miserable my way
