I do know for sure I need to get the seat reupholstered. There’s a place in Belmont that does both cars and boats. Might get it reskinned in some vinyl so I can just towel off any rain.
The Carpet is definitely NOT going back in. If I’m feeling froggy I might hop onto some spray can bed liner. Drill some low spot drain holes.
Wish I could cram an I6 OHV engine in this little truck.
Maybe if I have a front end collision I’ll hack the radiator support and fender area off and find someone’s unwanted Ford 6 cylinder.
Or if the Mazda FE blows up, but I kinda doubt that will happen if I actually take care of it.
Just need to figure out how I’d bolt it up to the 5 speed, maybe it could match up without needing to custom make a plate.
Looks like a 36x72 sheet of plexiglass at Lowe’s is more than enough for the job.
I’d try to glue it to the original frame but it’s curved latitudinally and longitudinally. It would probably SPROING back to flat when I try to glue it down. Not enough clamps in the world for that.
All I can find in a worthwhile size is 1/8" in stores. Looks like either way I’ll need to add window bracing to keep it from flapping in the wind.
Blocking the output of the fuel pump will do no damage to the pump. It runs, mostly in a blocked configuration each time the float stops the fuel from entering the carb when it’s full anyway. There is no need to redirect it anywhere. Just stop the flow at the carb. The pump will only generate about 5 to 10 lbs of pressure when fully closed off. This is not enough pressure to be an issue.
Already did that, worked until my pump overpowered my ball valve and started spraying gasoline all under the hood. Switched to an Edelbrock electric pump for simplicity. Mechanical is there as a backup.
Got my tag renewed for the year, going to go to Harbor Freight and buy some windshield removal cutters.
I’m hoping this is a gasketed windshield. I’m suspecting it might be instead of the newer glued type because when the backglass was shattered to a million pieces it didn’t leave any glue behind.
Also need to remove the rear bumper. I really hope that won’t be a bear to do now that it’s bent out of shape.
Do you know of any fuel cutoff valves? They have to be loose enough to be opened and closed with a choke cable. The valve I got just didn’t hold up to snuff.
Hey Cody.
Back years ago on a 87 dakota I used a 12 volt elec inline gasoline shut off valve . Worked good .
On another note . You may be getting some wind today . We had a good dose of it yesterday and last night !!
Oh yeah we got a taste of the wind last night. Dogs almost beat down my bedroom door to get in.
I’ll look into a 12V valve.
Edit: found one that finally said gasoline. This one is supposed to have a resistor that prevents vampiric/excessive draw when it’s on. I can just pull out my Edelbrock pump and use my switch for that.
Cody,
This appears to be what I used on the Corolla:
https://www.google.com/shopping/product/13007435015974154290?channel=fs&client=ubuntu&q=lawnmower+fuel+cut+off+valve&prds=eto:3957972837379970200_0;15332205760057093903_0&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjE5bPf8fD2AhUNqHIEHeRVAwEQ9pwGCAU
Shattered windshield is proving impossible to remove. The sealant is solid from age. Can’t poke it with the wire installer and the blade can’t cut into it. Great.
On the bright side the truck still starts up like a champ. Lots of smoke coming from the exhaust again but I think the crank case is over full. It barely smokes at idle and smokes a lot when throttle is applied. I need to change the oil to some 10-30 and a quart of MMO to see if I can desludge the engine some
Maybe when it gets real hot out I’ll go to 5w-30. It has 15w-40 Diesel oil from Mobil 1 right now and some MMO and I think some kind of oil seal swell additive.
Replaced the PCV, it’s seal and hose. Couldn’t get the old PCV out of the old seal so I just went with all NOS stuff. Had a sneaking suspicion that some of my air to fuel ratio woes were from old hoses and it was confirmed when I took the old PCV line off, it disintegrated where it fits to the intake manifold.
I hope I can get rid of that valve ticking sound someday. I’ve done the lash I don’t even know how many times. Sounds like an old IDI Diesel.
I should replace the timing belt and water pump when I have the opportunity, inspected the belt and she looks fine no cracking but I’m not sure how old it is.
Got to be a locked up hydraulic lifter Cody. They don’t usually self fix.
The 1986 was pre hydraulic. I could swap out the head for a 2.2 and have hydraulics though.
I see no advantage. I’d stethoscope those cylinders though and see if I could locate where the sound is coming from.
I still need to get one, most people say the clatter sound is part and parcel of a FE. Not sure what rides the OHC maybe a tappet? Teeny short rod? I forget.
I’m sure you know you can use a long screwdriver with your ear against the handle, in a pinch.
Well we got the old windshield off of the frame. Had to use an air chisel
Got the fuel cutoff solenoid in the mail, went to my local hardware instead of a big box store to get some brass fittings for it. The solenoid doesn’t care about polarity. I tested by blowing into the valve and touching it off with 12 volts. Closing the circuit opens the valve, so if I had some wiring mishap the valve would close. Going to leave enough fuel line so I can override that in that event.
