When I say stock it really means, the few squares I have laying around. I should have just enough to mount the 4 contact points.
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I used to be junk pile rich Bob. Over the years all my precious stuff dwindled down to a meager little heap. I’m just afraid if I use it now I’ll think of something later even better than what I may use it for now and won’t have anything to use for that. It’s sad to get old and foolish. Thanks for the many many years wishes. Never been a concern for me. I can’t believe I made it this long being born with a wonky wiring job in the noodle.
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You too. I thought I was the only one, Lol. Just Live long and try to look at the positive things in life. That’s hard to do in this day and age but not impossible. It makes Life worth living in my book. Gasifiers and the like very positive experiences.
Bob
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Used some Blue Loctite to seal the threads for the fuel solenoid. The solenoid didn’t come with hose barbs so I had to use some sort of sealant. I knew ptfe tape would just melt from any gasoline.
Man I need to replace the motor mounts on this truck. Doesn’t cut flips but it sure isn’t smooth either.
Found someone that sells a windshield for the Mazda. 220 delivered and installed. Only issue is I still need to straighten it out and I’d like to just buy the windshield. Sent them an email to the local chain that gave me the quote. I’d be fine even paying the whole 220 if it means they’ll deliver it to me. Charlotte is a bit of a hike.
220 is a great freakin price, it would cost me as much for that in 1/4" Lexan.
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Also putting the doors back on. Took her for a spin in the hay field and I didn’t really like the lack of doors. I might try to see if I can install an internal track for the door glass. Mostly because I’m too lazy to take the doors apart to remove them. Could leave a nub of the upper tracks.
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Finally installing gauges in the Mazda, probably this weekend in preparation for the gasifier. This is how it felt driving without them.
Edit: got a quote on the windshield with no installation, 135.
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Once I get her up and running I’m going to advance the distributor to Premium gas. Since it doesn’t have an adjustable cap and instead has the slotted track for the whole unit to move I don’t think I could have a stable way to make it remote adjustable. I want to say the setting bolt is there for structural reasons as well as hard setting the ignition timing.
If the truck ran this alright at 87 octane settings it should get a bit better on High Test levels.
Edit: apparently with the Weber 32/36, since it runs with bigger jets it’s suggested to advance it anyways.
Factory is 6 degrees BTDC, for 87 Octane.
Gonna need a timing light first, but with how short the throw is for advance I might be able to just peg it and use premium gasoline.
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Thinking of using a 2" pipe union to connect the gasifier to my cooling rail. Think it’ll be airtight enough?
Run of pipe is too short for me to gamble on RTV, plus it would be an insurance policy against it running hot. Never know when gas temps spike over 600. Plus it will be future proofing for when I eventually put a raw wood gasifier on the truck.
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Well I know they’re water tight. I guess if necessary you could put a gasket on the mating surfaces.
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Going to install the main hoop of the roll cage inside the bed. The steel is thicker than the floor pan. I intend to drill with a hole saw for the feet of the bar to sink in and then I’ll weld it to the bed and if it touches any frame members I’ll weld to there as well. I’ll most likely find some more tubing to reinforce behind the cage, since it will be brancing over to the floor pan and give me more rigidity.
I haven’t drilled the holes yet so it will sit a fair bit shorter than now.
Basically using it at a headache rack and then branching into a cage for the rest of the cab.
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When the truck was upside down I lost a quart and a half of gear oil in the transmission. Just squirted some back in there. Eugh sulphuric mess. I need an oil pump for these jobs.
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Happens often in the wheeling world, extreme off camber spots resulting in roll overs. Get into interesting extraction sometimes. I go the opposite site way, crank tires towards the dirt and copious amounts of skinny pedal till it pops up to rubber side down. Often shrouded in smoke from oil being in places it’s not supposed to be, and lots of body damage. Had more then one guy try to recruit me to the local group know as BDI (body damage incorporated) most of there trucks look like you crushed a beer can flat then stretched it back out to full size 
I was already with another group called the rednecks and Rugrats, a group of older jeep guys that moved at a slower pace, I was a bit young and wild for there group admittedly but they liked my showmanship they said haha
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Gave the truck a Shakedown test riding to the church and back, so about a mile round trip.
I might want to install those hood hold-down guys that the ricers put on the corners of their Hondas, paranoid of it flying open.
Rides decent but the carburetor is being funny, probably over rich and old gas. I tossed 5 gallons in of some fresh stuff but that only helps so much.
I’m ditching the air cleaner idea after seeing @sbowman Toyota again, I’ve got a lot of short ends of my 3" or 3.5" conduit pipe and I think it will just barely sit over the barrels of the carb. Steve has his woodgas entering one side and fresh air entering the other. Right now with my setup, fresh air and woodgas collide in a T before being tunneled to the snorkel hat. Steve has no issues with his setup, I’ve ridden with him once when I visited. I think having a shorter run for fresh air will let me get a cleaner Air Idle adjustment and get back to proper Stoich on gasoline.
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Tested the AFR Gauge, same type as what Wayne has. Need a new O2 sensor for sure, was making the gauge wig out. Shop manual from Mazda says it should read 0-.4 at low RPM and .5-1 at top end RPM. .7 at 4500 is a rule of thumb.
Was reading 2 volts at mid throttle after warming up, yikes.
Luckily it’s an upstream sensor so wether or not I have a catalytic converter doesn’t matter.
Wonder what could make a Narrow Band read 2 volts though? Really odd. Maybe something is shorted in it?
This was tested with engine ground and just the sensor wire, it isn’t connected to the idiot light “computer”.
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Coworker Kenny has given me some advice to safely make the distributor On-The-Fly adjustable and not risk leaking oil or messing it up. He suggested I take the tightening bolt and use a lock washer to maintain some pressure, and use a nylon washer on the shaft of the distributor to keep an oil seal. It wouldn’t even need to be shimmed out by much. I may not even need a lock washer I could probably use Loctite Green, lowest strength loctite.
He advised shimming by MAYBE 1/16" should be enough to keep it firm but adjustable.
I was playing with the ignition timing a bit and didn’t even notice knock. In all fairness it wasn’t under load just RPM change. Mazda guys say when you put in a Weber that you should advance the timing. I set it back to Factory, they have witness marks to show their 6° with vacuum.
It doesn’t have much advance adjustment to begin with so I’ll need every degree I can squeeze out of it with the 8.5:1 compression.
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Changed the oil and filter in the Mazda. Warmed it up and waited until it was scalding hot at operating temps.
It was smoking like a freight train even 5 minutes after reaching operating temps. Looks like it was a pint overfull of oil, I probably overestimated how much engine oil I lost being upside down and just dumped a quart in there.
Added 1 quart of Marvel Mystery Oil
2 quarts of 5w30 High Mileage
And 1.5 quarts of 10w40 High Mileage.
MMO is a 5W oil so it turns a 5w30 into like a 5W28 if you ran the 20% advised formula so I’m probably running an 8W35 right now. Better than it had for sure. Oil seal swelling stuff, and 15w40 Mobil1 Diesel oil, I’m going to see if the MMO helps get some better lubrication to the mechanical lifters.
With the new oil it isn’t smoking hardly at all, maybe just a little wisp and that could be residual oil in the exhaust pipes. It usually smokes some on startup but goes away once I’m a mile away from the house.
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New Bosch upstream oxygen sensor ordered. 23 dollars at NAPA for my price not so bad.
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Might need to go down 1 jet size for the Weber. I’m only 1.5 turns out to reach Idle Stoich. Idle kept stumbling until I advanced the timing a schoch. I’m getting the windshield tomorrow and will finish straightening out this weekend.
For some reason grounding the gauge off of the valve cover made it double output volts. Not sure what is going on.
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