Seeing what others have experienced with flaking/cracking mild steel I would too add heat sinks/sacrificial shields. Easier now than later.
Also I think I would go with your original “hanging grate” plan - leaving some by-pass space. The holes in the grate will most likely get plugged with ash anyway.
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Ok guys a update. In short. I have had trouble with the car runing on dino from last December. Just before Argos it compleely died andwas towed home. I discovered half a gallon of water in the tank/lines, but at the time l cleaned the rusty gunky water sat in the delicate Bosch K jetronic fuel injection system for over a month. I was trying to kick it back to life for months but it was no use. Finaly l had enough.
I am not buying it new, and the condition of used ones is quetionable. Time for some redneckin.
Fryday l went parts hunting and in 3th junk yard l found a brandn new Lada carbourator. Its a all mechanic simple Russia tech carb with float and everything. So, Sathurday l hooked it on. I messed up and fited the woodgas connecion wrong on the intake manifold so it let air in and it caused me to present some Serbian language as the engine wuld only run under choke. Then a big backfire shot out the temporairy woodgas pipe plug and gave me this
and caused some more Serbian languae 
but l fixed the leak, adjusted the carb and now it runs as good as it ever did with original injection.
Now, you might be asking what the hell is wrong with me, every woodgaser runs away from carbs, but l throw injection out and instal a carb??? Well, l have 2 throtle boddys and hybriding is not a problem at all. Intake burning is second in line for a headacke, but l have a unique oppertunity here. This kind of injection has 4 main mechanical injectors and one electronic for startup. The 4 main ones are not in function any more but the startup nozzle can be hooked on to petrol supply and opened via 12 signal, alowing the engine to idle without a carb injecting fuel in the intake manifold. It can then be burned jus like a MPFI.
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Congratulations on the fix.
Let’s just hope the inspectors don’t find out.
Maybe wrap things in invisible paper. We use that kind of paper when we bring things home from work. Maybe you have the same
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The air filter covers it completely. One shuld realy be looking for it to find something is out of order.
Haha here such paper isnt so invisible. It comes with numbers 5, 10, 20, 50, 100…
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Great solution
I have found that discussing the heritage of a part having issues may not make it behave but sure feels good at the time.
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it makes me laugh a lo 
.t we are all like us humans. Here we would not have spoken about the Serbs but the inhabitants of new land. I hope that the Serbs and the terreneuvians have some humor
I guess they laugh at us 
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Trigaux, l was reffering to the famous Serbian curse words you can imagine geting shot in your face by a plastic pipe cap with a metal top makes you slip some nasty words
Took me all morning to finish the carb/woodgas delivery system and l finished just in time for work. I only had to bolt the woodgas throtlebody on and then l noticed the salesman was sucsessfull at packing me preety much every possible bolt and nut l exsisting but failed to add those 4 litle 10mm bolts required for the tb. And l hadnt had any at home. Frustrating! Now l have to wait 2 days to test what l made. Oh well.
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I once put a Weber 2 barrel on a 1982 Jetta 1.6L. 39 mpg and good power on the highway. But a lot of people still said I was crazy. They could not deny the performance, because it was easy to demonstrate. But they refused to believe 39 mpg. You are NOT crazy.
Rindert
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Its Alive!!! The Frankenmobil roars once more!
Focus here is woodgas. Throtle is 3/4 woodgas 1/4 petrol and rining 100% dino feels funny on the pedal, but it works flawlesly. Only problem is this carb is rated for 1.3l engine while the MB has a 2.3l one. Lambda shows its runing lean. Luckly fine tuning is easy with this carb, shuld correct it with a set of larger nozzles.
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Correction. Adjusting this carb WULD beeasy if l were able to sorce biger jets. No car part dealer has them. So, only option is to drill it out. Any idea how to do that? Drills so small dont come in such small tolerances. I was thiking to pull a polishing compound soaked thread trugh to gradualy polish off the bore to biger size?
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Is it possible to source a specialty drill bit? Or to find a wire with the correct diameter to be able to abrade the jets while carrying fine abrasive?
I’m sure the thread idea will work well, just slowly, but it’s not a lot of material to remove.
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Well it probably is but there are two things to concider. I dont know what the diameter shuld be and second, l only have one nozzle. Gone to far, there is no way back.
The wife idea migt be faster thugh!
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I scrolled back and couldn’t find any solution mentioned involving your wife
Hm, I take it your nozzle isn’t adjustable. A bit strange that you get lean reading. The carb should be pretty blind to the engine size until you really push things hard. Air leak?
If you’re running lean even at low power, couldn’t you just choke it a little? Personally I wouldn’t mess with a fixed fuel nozzle. Also, later on with woodgas and hybriding, a little off on the mix doesn’t matter at all.
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Good morning Kristijan
In years passed if I had a gasoline jet that was too large I would take a tiny piece of wire and lodge in it. 
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I have filled a jet with solder and then redrilled. I did this because of high altitude here in the Denver area. This was for a 212 cc predator engine.
Rindert
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KristijanL try first raising your float height to enrich across the range of usage.
Lowered float height will enlean across the range.
Other tricks can be done, like made-up-saw lowering the bore transfer slots. Air-bleed into the mixing well changes. Mixing well nozzle changes.
For a single bore carb jet enlargening try a set of oxy-acendelyne cutting torch tip cleaners.
Also look into drilling out and threading for Weber or Japanese carburator swap-able jets.
Regards
Steve unruh
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Hi Kristijan,
Steve’s idea isn’t beatable in simplicity.
There are also special reamer for carburator nozzles, I bought one set some years ago for fine-tuning my old motorcycle.
This is a german store:
And this is the same in the UK (to save me the translation)
The reamers are slightly conical, so you can work on the nozzle quite precise. I would not recommend a normal drill bit, it can ruine the nozzle if it is too big.
Regards,
Til
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All fantastic sugestions! I particulary like Waynes solution
Unfortunaly l saw your posts too late as we went on a 4 day vaication on our Southest river. Anyway l drilled main jet from 1.07mm to 1.5mm and that seemed to be slight overkill. O2 sensor shows ~800mv but power is good and fuel consumtion seems to be at least as good as with the injection! Burned less thain half a 50l fuel tank on the 250km trip.
It has been allmost 2 years till l promissed @TomC a video of your First ladys hometown Sevnica. Today was a oppertunity.
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Thank you Kristijan. Quite a beautiful town but an even more beautiful America’s First Lady. We just love her. TomC
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I got the system tuned up preety good now. I coppyed Tils conical reamer idea (diy version ofcorse ) and set the idle jet well, l took Waynes advice and tuned the main jet. Took 3 thin ss wires to get the jet to the sweetspot.
Now, there is a problem that l need your oppinion on. The engine sometimes gets starved. As if the fuel bowl gets emptyed. O2 reading shows wery lean and engine stumples. Usual it helps if l kill the fuel pump and then start it again, for whatever reason.
The way l connected the fuel suply is l just connected the fuel suply from the pump directly to the return line with a T to the carb. So some pressure but wery litle. You think is possible thats not enough to fill the carb?
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