I have also used these “sewer” gate valves. The PVC ones are good for 167F. Those with ABS body and polypropylene gate wedge are good for 205F. They are common in 1-1/2" and 2".
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The ones I have are 3 inch
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When using coal, what hopper volume is about the same as one liter gasoline?
If my engine use 10l of gasoline a hour and I want to run it 2h on coalgas how many liters of coal do I need?
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I’ll take a stab at your question. I use a 1-10, gasoline to charcoal “rule of thumb” for fuel volume. So that would be a 200 liter hopper. The amount of char in the reactor is not included. You may reduce the hopper volume by the amount of charcoal residing above the reduction zone in the reactor body.
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Hi Jim. Depends on charcoal type allso. With my cars l calculate 1l/km. Thats gros consumption, starting and stoping included.
A better way is Calculate with weight. 1l petrol is about 1,5kg charcoal.
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I had 2 weeks off, but they passed like a day. Surely l am not the only one that has this happening to him?
Anyways, l hadnt had time to post much. Read trugh the site but felt asleep when l was about to ype 
its amazing how simple tools like picks and shovels work way better thain any sleeping pills…
Anyway, put the MB back up and runing, ON WOOD that is!
The gasifier is more or less WK. 7" dia, about 3,5" restriction, lined with 6mm ss sacrificial plates. Sturdy 9mm firetube. I guess @TomC will not need a conversion here, l think he knows well how big 9mm is
Its ment to run on wet/dry charcoal, wood chips, pellets, or most likely a mixture of those.
Anyway, l got the car runing on it, drove a couple of miles, with great problems. It sounded funny, rough, AF reding wierd. so l swiched to petrol, HA, same problem! I limped home, only to finda bad spark plug wirre connection! Only run on 3 cyl!
But, there were bursts of real good power, must of been when the plug got connection. So it looks promissing!
Also, the gas was made out of 100% pellets. I got a bit to wet gas that l like to see in a towel filter (ordinairy woodas wet) so at least a few % charcoal will be neaded it seems. But while the first stationary test with the engine hooked on the gasifier did make some tar with 100% pellets, the second one seemed to develop a healthyer charbed and made clean gas.
Still a lot of small things to take care off, petrol idle, woodgas idle, vacuum and temp guages…, but its mainly on the right fuel now!
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Kristijan; As you may have noticed, it is raining again today so I am busy posting my BS on DOW. We just finished the wettist Sept. in our history and today it is raining again-- the guy that measures our weather started measuring anew, but the ground doesn’t know that— I now have a seasonal river flowing across my hay field which I ususally only see on a sunny day, when the snow melts particularly fast.
I’m retired and the months pass like days. I only know today is the first, because my wife reminded me I have to pay bills. I just did that a day or so ago.
I borrowed a hand post hole digger from a neighbor and when I gave it back I told him,“there are certain things that a friend does NOT loan to a FRIEND— post hole diggers and sledge hammers to name a couple”.
I looked it up— you knew 7’’ dia and 3.5". You just wanted to test me by going back to mm.
If that is anything like a WK it sure is small. I think Bill Shiller’s is 6" though. I just finished a test test of a sort of, kind of WK with many short cuts. I may write it up under my thread. TomC
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Kristijan, I’m glad you’re up and running again. I was afraid you were abandoning woodgas.
I envy your weeks off.
@TomC Just guessing, but I think Kristijan was refering to 9mm ammunition. Maybe you use only sturdier caliber
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Oh yea! I get it now. I’m just a little bit slow. He could have said .357 and I still would not have thought about a gun, although I have some of those tool Thanks for helping me out. TomC
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Went for a nother test drive today. Much much better! Engine ran good, power was wery aceptible. I was afraid the tiny gasifier with a tiny restriction and tiny fuel will cause lots of drag but that for some reason seems to not be the case. I had problems with a pipe joint disconnecting after a small backfire, and a funny incident. I tryed to light the gas close to the filter to check for flamability and flame colour, a spark must of had goten in the soot filled towel wilter and caused it to catch on fire, melting my shopvac hose. Lesson lerned. Nothing that culd be fixed with smugling one more towel from the bathroom
I have a question for @trikebuilder57 Al, how big is your restriction on your gasifier? We have similar engines…
One other thing. It seems the engine doesent care if the gas air mix is lean or rich, about same power no matter the position of the air valve. I know @JO_Olsson mentioned this on his builds allso. Interasting, as my previous systems were pickyer.
Anyway, this is not the case with idle. The enine will not idle unless l richen the mix, but then it wuld dye when l try to rev from overly rich mix. How do you guys cope with tha? I know ww2 gas mixers were designed to richen the mix at idle, is it worth wile to do this or shuld l just keep increasing the idle gas mix quantity to a point it will idle?
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I recognize the behaviour. Most of the time I squeeze the airmixing valve a little for a good idle. It seems at very low flows (idle), it doesn’t properly restrict air in proportion to woodgas.
And then, with an extreemly small air valve opening and stepping on it, that little opening doesn’t seem to have enough “turndown ratio” to be able to handle high flows - the motor bogs down from a rich mix.
The tighter the charbed, the pickyer the air setting at idle.
Well, something like that
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Hi Kristijan, my restriction is 4’’ or 10cm on your side of the pond 
I use a throttle body for the air control, it is very sensitive. The Ranger’s power changes with very little movement of the cable. congrats on the new farm.
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Hi Kristijan
I remember you use a narrow band probe to check the richness of the mixture. Is this the vehicle’s original lambda probe ?. And if so, is this probe connected to the ECU and at the same time to a display to read the wealth in real time?
I would like to do that but I hesitate to cut electrical wires from the probe to connect a display on the dashboard in parallel. I fear to disturb the signal of the probe has the ECU
I hope I have been understood in my explanation? sorry for my bad English 
Thierry
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Correct. However my computer was dead and the lambda was useless.
Best for you wuld be if you put a wideband sensor on. The narrowband one is quite useless to be honest because of the voltage function graph it has. It will show extremely lean or rich and go crazy in the middle. But it is better thain nothing.
I dubt tapping on the cable wuld hurt anything.
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