Wayne,
I’ll fess up, I actually just hung there and lifted up my legs.
cool idea those parts seam to be laying around most places .ill give it 2 thumbs up pepe
Just a few more pics of the hook up. Welded a 3/8" thick flat plate with a 3/8" hole to the bottom of the trolley platform.
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I’ve thought of something like this mounted crosswise to the truck would give x, y, & z movement to mount or remove a gasifier.
Hi Carl,
Thanks for the thought. I presume you mean something like a trolley on a trolley with a lift on the latter. I’m not thinking truck mount as I’ll be running a stationary unit for emergency power.
Pepe
Hey Everyone,
Or, getting to know “your” gasifier. I used my vac to remove the fuel layer by layer. Yes, it was tedious. I moved down about 1 1/2" or so at a time. I wanted to identify the pyrolysis zone and how far it was above the C/L of the nozzles. I did this by observing the condition of the fuel. When it changed from really dried looking to looking “roasted” with some charcoal spots, I had found it. I then continued removing fuel in layers down to the grate. The charcoal really takes off 2" to 3" above the C/L of the nozzles and continues to the grate. It is all very uniform in size and structure.
My hearth is gasketed and bolted to the flange on the bottom of the firetube. The top of my hourglass hearth (only 1/16" thick) has spots that reached the melting point as you can see. Good to see those temps in the oxidation zone. My next one will be at least 1/8" thick. It will also be located further under the nozzles to escape the blast area. The area between the hearth and the firetube wall is filled with sand. I’ll use a thicker material if I can find some way or someone to roll that thickness for me. I only found one clunker. It has a metallic sheen on the broken face. Next to the last pic.
The pictures may seem not to change much, so use the burn rings inside the firetube to gauge the amount removed. I start with an inside view of the layer, then I show the removed fuel in the bucket. Note the subtle color changes in the fuel. Note where the fuel starts to become partially charcoalized. You’re near the the border of the pyrolysis/oxidation zones. Everything look uniformly changed across the diameter? Good, you’ve got good nozzle penetration then. The oxidation zone is approx 2 1/2" above and below the C/L of the nozzles. The pyrolysis zone is from 2 1/2" above and 5" above the C/L of the nozzles. Above that is the drying zone. The reduction zone is evident, from restriction to grate. The last pic CW from upper left shows the totals of the various zones.
I am really satisfied with the performance from my “numbers”.
I thought you guys would like to see this part of my study.
Pepe
Sorry about the hearth. I’m not familiar with the Imberts, so pardon my questions. It appears your air inlets come in horizontal. If one were to bring them in at an angle to point to the center of the opening, would it keep the stress of the heat off the hearth and still make quality gas?
I have no experiance from gasifiers yet except from my downdraft gasifying boiler for househeating. It has a 2" X 5" oval restriction/hole in a flat 20" X 16" cheramic floor where I put my woodblocks/logs. Years ago when becoming a bit lazy and not emptying aches above floor I noticed that aches and char formed a rather stiff nice cone down into the restriction. Nowadays I never empty aches above floor. It will only pile up so much until cone i step enough for char and aches to fall down into restriction. I only empty aches from combustionchamber below restriction. No soty char left. Just fine aches for the garden.
This is my idea: Why not scip the upper part of your cone and let aches an char form cone. You might need an insert/ring of some sturdier metal in restrictions narrowest part not to burn edges off. Saw your comment on internal leaks. I don´t know your machine well but I think insert could be loose on top of your lower cone ( with edges of course - not falling down). I don´t see where leaks could appear if stuffed with aches. Maybe even lower end of cone could be surrounded only by styffed aches instead of sand for even better insulation.
Like I said: I have no experiance yet. It might not work at all for some reason, but this is the way i planned to build. Can´t wait to get my premium to se what WK´s inner secrets are.
JO
Hey Pepe,
If it were me and I was gonna replace a hourglass I’d do something like this instead.
takes that top of the cone right out of the picture.
sorry for the sloppy hand drawing… I really need to get some french curves… the area in between the cones becomes self filling with ash so it is insulated. heck, you may not even need to use the top ring, tar fence… I wouldn’t.
Yes! That is exactly what i ment, except for an additional enforcement / insert at the top. Didn´t even think of a tarfence 
Hi Guys,
Jan-Ola, Yes, I understood the design you were suggesting. Similar to the inverted V shown in the first pic below. I tried a variation of that on my fluidyne build. You can find info on it in the early pages here. It worked well, but I had one of those internal leaks where I left part of the tube unwelded. Good flare buuuut something wasn’t just quite right. I have a video of this posted on early pages also. On tear down I found the missing weld. Problem solved, lesson learned! Add it to the 75% operator’s manual. lol. I do not subscribe to or recommend the “dust will seal it” tack. Just think about this for a moment, thermal expansion(movement), cooling(more movement), shaking the grate or running the vibrator(more movement). Now consider the strength of the powder bond. Now consider poor performance and having to disassemble to fix it. I have been there, done that and will never go back. My hourglass hearth is gasketed and bolted in. The smoke cannot go anywhere but all through the reduction zone, exactly what you want for optimum gas production.
Another thing I learned was that the 1/2" nozzle holes were too big. SU suggested starting at 1/4" and adjusting up if necessary. I did and they have stayed at 1/4" for my “numbers” Line C and now line D.
Actually, Arvid, your hand drawings are quite good. I did consider that collar like that way back, but with cutouts in the top cone to fit up under the nozzles. I nixed for the easier one. However, I had just bent a cone for my cyclone so I decided to be artistic and do the hour glass hearth. I love how it works. I will however, widen the cone at the top so it’s farther under the nozzles away from the blast. I want to try a fire tube the same diameter as the nozzle ring so there is no thing protruding into the fuel flow. Probably put a few ideas on paper and start mulling it over, lol.
I wouldn’t run my nozzles flush to the hearth tube… i think you’ll end up having the hearth tube getting too hot. I have not problems with gas bypassing on my hot plate that isn’t bolted down.
Hi Arvid,
I’m glad for your success with the method. You know this is just one of my pet peeves. I’ve been rethinking the hearth tube idea with flush nozzles, though. It’s not like I have any time to build another gasifier right off anyway, lol.
I finally sat down and drew out a plan of attack for my ideal location of my cooling tubes. My head says diametrically opposed would promote rather than interrupt the internal flow pattern. Hopefully I can locate them like this without any interference from the add on components. I’ll lay it all out tomorrow and start taking the unit apart for inspection.
Hi Pepe
This little Wall around the Grate,i made the Same Mistake, try to remove it an make the Grate Circle bigger
Then the Ash can fall down and all can Flow
Regards Ignaz switzerland
Hi Ignaz,
Thanks for commenting. Also a good catch and suggestion. That picture is 2 yrs old and the only pic I had of the gasket and bolted plate. Since then I have a much bigger grate and much better quality gas. Also note that I changed from square holes to elongated slots for better flow. I will be tearing down shortly and we’ll see how well the new grate has held up to the heat. Check out this grate shaker demo-44 sec only.
Regards, Pepe
Also check out the rest of my posts if you want to.
Click on videos to see my personal posts, enjoy.
Hi Ignaz,
I’ll embarrass myself and show you my blunder, lol. I had the best of intentions on day one, even had it installed! Since I was using a straight tube hearth I misguidedly re-made my grate just an inch bigger than the tube??? I don’t know! That’s how I got to the pictures posted above. Good for a smile, I’m sure. On the plus side this is when the chemistry and architecture began to make sense to me. I’ve got it right now.
Pepe
Hi Pepe
I did this Grate shaker Type many times, but over the Time it works not well, i combined the imbert Type
Gasifier with the Wayne shaker,perfekt !
Regards Ignaz
Hey Guys;
This may have been posted by someone already, but I think it deserves your attention if your interested in building a monorator hopper much simpler than mine. Also check out his 20 mistakes we make and the Q and A in parts 6 and 7. Watch the whole series, there’s a bunch of really good info you can garner there. Yeah, there’s a little sales pitch. I found it an interesting watch.
Pepe
Ben’s monorator hopper
parts 6 and 7
