Lol… flaring is boring… running an engine is much better
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I’m hoping to have the 18 hp B&S up soon.
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Put the engine under some kind of load… doesn’t take much woodgas just to make an engine run… just my 2 cents
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You aint messing around with that vibrator!!! Very nice!!
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You are havin way to much fun Pepe, I like that swirl flair! Very cool! Herb H
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Hi All,
The morning after results of burn 3.
@17s note the new lip on the top of my hourglass hearth. There’s some charcoal on it, but it went through the hottest temps of the burn and hasn’t distorted yet. One of my improvements, see reply # 360.
@42s I discover there’s a drain problem.
@57s A quick shot of the cooler condensate. You’ll have to pause the vid to really see it.
@1m06s when I said it’s full, it was only full from the valve up, since the valve remained in the closed position due to a bad handle.
With the moat drain plugged, the cooler did a stand up job of capturing the moisture. This was a good burn n learn.
Pepe
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Put together my new drain. The drain hole is 1 1’2" but the valve is 1 1/4". The main body is 2". A street el brings the shut off to the front. I could turn it a quarter turn to the right if necessary. to get it out of the way. I still have to insulate that heat shield around the hearth area. It sure looks better than the old one.
Pepe
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Hey Everyone,
What a pleasant surprise I got this am when I started stripping a Reliance brand hot water heater. The shell has a plastic coating before the insulation is installed, so it comes off basically in one piece. First time I’ve seen this.
Pepe
This is 2" stuff, top notch. The bare tank is 20" diam.
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Aren’t you the lucky one??? If you go for a hot water heater that is in tack, how do you know what diameter the tank will be. Do you go for a certain gallons. I have never used a hot water tank, but my be thinking about it.TomC
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It’s been my experience that most of the ones I’ve used have one inch of insulation. OD 20 inches tank size 18 inches . Your mileage may vary
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You can poke a nail into the insulation to find the thickness, then subtract that from the overall diameter.
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Yep the 18 inch dia tanks are usually the shorter 40-50 gallon ones.
Hey All,
My wife picked up a some goodies for me at a local auction. The first item is a medium size squirrel cage fan I can use for drying fuel or moving air around. Five bucks and it runs well, just needs some minor housing bracing work, cleanup and paint.
This baby puts out a lot of air for its size.
This unit had one slightly bent fan blade and scraped when turned. No one bid on it and my wife got it for a buck, $1.00. Can you believe it! I took the cover off, used a pair of vice grips, tweaked the offending fan blade and it runs great, no vibration at all.
I’ve never seen a motor so adaptable to cycles and voltage.
The inlet is 3 1/4" and the OD is 13 1/4".
The fan has a 7 1/2" diameter and the ID is 11 1/2". Note the balancing weight attached to the top blade, quality unit. The outlet is 2 3/4". I’ll make a gasket for it, fabricate an inlet cone and give it a try. I really hate attaching anything to such a nice antique.
Pepe
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Good wife! But guilty of aiding and abetting your habit.
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That forge blower looks really bulky. I just don’t know how you’ll store it. I do happen to have plenty of space next to my homemade forge and I wouldn’t mind keeping it safe for you. 
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Too bad UPS doesn’t take bulky stuff, drats. Here’s another really bulky one, same size, but powered by armstrong. Price was armstrong, too. My wife gave a C note for this one at the auction, someone else wanted it, too. Drats.
Pepe
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I really like the forge blower.
Hey All,
we’re going to be sunny and almost 50 this Sat and Sun. I’ll probably burn some wood before I retire my unit for the winter for teardown and further mods. One of the mods will be heat gathering shroud over the 3 hottest cooling pipes on my cooler. They are all in one row simplifying the duct construction (basically a rectangle). The harder part will be connecting the 2. Here’s a view from the front of the unit.
Here’s a link to the site I use for titles, etc.
http://wigflip.com/roflbot
Pepe
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What is “spai” over on the right side of the picture? O.o
Hi Brian,
SPAI is a single port air inlet on the circular manifold enclosing the tubes to the nozzles. This unit was a fluidyne design (third pic) before I started modifying for the better. This is the point where my experiences and reading finally began to come together, namely “preheating incoming air” by putting the air inlet tubes in the hot exhaust gas stream. It works and was well worth the effort. (last pic.
Pepe
<img src="/uploads/default/original/2X/f/f48ee861b76deb1afa9b089cda61ff3736a6569b.JPG" width=“666” height="500>
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