How many BBQ lids have the place for rope and seal’ent /what brands / types/ Most seem to have a loose fit sheet metal no place for rope seal.I looked up flame buster cauck and only said good for 300 F / must be a part NO# for the higher temp stuff.
Hey Pepe,
I have been using ‘Rutland’ Furnace cement and it was $19 a tube good for 2000 degrees. Much cheaper on Ebay I bet. I would think ceramic wool (2300 degrees) or furnace rope with a good bead of furnace cement would hold up to temps. Might need to run a razor knife along it to separate parts but not very often. It dries hard but comes off easily with a wire wheel after parts are separated. It doesn’t glue so hard that removal is difficult. another dos centavos, Gordon
Keven I just welded a 1"
strip on the inside. then I had a channel. the Flame buster expands at 300 degrees up to 6 times its original size. sku #wl8801010
I will start saveing the lids Thanks on the details.JIM L. I thought Top C said he had some flame buster good around 1800 F, HE might have meant after the matting or fillers.
There are two types and the tubes look just alike. One says SILICON and the other is LATEX. The silicon is good to 600 degrees and expands under temperature. The latex is good to something like 1500 (?) degrees and dries hard but is suppose to expand some under temperature. On a tare down you will have to take a wire wheel to remove it from the surface. I think you will find these to be less expensive that others with the latex being much cheaper than silicon TomC
It appears you are applying the adhesive on only one side of the stove gasket. It seemed to help my leaks when I used the high temp latex, like Tom C has just mentioned, after I coated the other side too. I used the cellophane wrap like Arvid mentioned to me while I let it cure. I didn’t tighten the seal all the way during the curing time. After I removed the cellophane, I assembled it and fired up the gasifier, I snugged it down again. I wonder if it is because the some air can get past unless it is completely coated? Just a thought…
Hey Everyone,
Firstly, thanks to you all for responding. It’s all good info. I’m going whole hog on the gasketing process. First, the welded in heat shields. Second, high temp gasket material. Third, coat the gasket material entirely with Rutland furnace cement in the hottest spots and Tom C’s latex sealant in the not so hot spots.
Now I’m off to cut some 1" strips for heat shields. Psyched again!
Pepe
I haven’t used the Furnace Cement on a gasifier, but my other times using it, I found it was quite brittle and cracked/flaked off under any serious vibrations/movement/temperature expansions. Something to worry/think about when using it.
1 Like
Hi Brian,
I did have some reservations about using the furnace cement. Having never used it, I wondered if it set up really hard like you described. I think I’ll pass on anything brittle. Thank you for the heads up.
Pepe
I just picked up some garage door shipping crates today and got these items gratis from my book keeper wife’s boss at a major overhead door company here. Wow, rolling machine jumped out at me. 40 ’ of chain per unit. The gears in the last pic are cast together as a unit. Thank you, Scott.
Pepe
nice find and the price is right
Hey Pepe, I’ve been meaning to ask and keep forgetting to… how many hours a season do you put on your gasifier?
Stay well and keep burning
Hi Arvid,
My burn time is low mainly because I’m still in the hobby stage. Yeah after all this time! I would guess only 20 or so hours. I finally have a 13 hp generator so I expect more run time this “season”.
Pepe
Hello Fellow and Gal gassers,
Darned if the beta version isn’t a lot of work, but I love seeing it come together.
pic 1, pic 2. I used 1/2" square stock for the heat sink rim. Draw a line around the shell with a compass. Clamp bar on line, heat to brilliant orange almost yellow keeping a light steady pressure on the bar. When the temp is just right you will feel the bar start to give (bend). Spread the heat out and the bar should wrap in place, Keep the bar on the line while it’s hot. Maybe a hammer rap to help it conform.
Pepe
pic 3, pic 4. Finished blank for heat sink rim. Use a straight tank for a form if you have one. This was tight getting it over the flange, almost deformed it.
pic 5, 6, 7. Insert ring into burner tube, adjust it flush with the top of the flange holding it with clamps. Tack weld there. Move around the rim, heating and beating to conform and tack welding til done. You can see now how the inside cut of my flange doesn’t meet the inner tank circumference evenly. I had to struggle to get started as I wanted to keep the heat sink inside the tank and it kept slipping up.
pic 8, pic 9. Now to fill in the spaces and grind the welds flush with the flange.
Can someone tell me how to rearrange my photos in order. I posted them in order but they didn’t upload that way and I can’t figure out how to get them in order.I don’t want to make a mess of things.Thanks,
Pepe
Hi Pepe,
They’re just text links in your post. You can move the text around and it will rearrange them. You can also put text in between them.
Hi Chris,
Thanks a lot. I do remember reading they were text. It is a little cumbersome keeping track of where to move them to with all the code, etc. Is there a reason they don’t upload in the original order?
I love the new program, video thing is great! Thanks again.
Pepe
They probably all upload at once, meaning the smallest will go first. If you want to upload them in order the first time, just do one at a time.
Try drag-n-drop too, it’s pretty easy that way. Open the file folder and drag them in one by one. Each one will show up wherever the cursor is when it uploads.
Thanks Chris, I thought the file size affected the order. I’ll try your suggestions. I might even try putting just a caption then the pic under and continue story book like. It’s fun anyway.
Pepe
Hi All,
Moving on to the heatsink flange for the hourglass hearth. I made up a simple compass to layout the heatsink ring on a leftover circle from a previous 1/4" thick flange cutout. Note the original center and layout lines scribed into the original 24" x 24" 1/4" plate steel. I got the ring over the top of the hearth and turned the hearth upside down. I then tapped the ring down to the edge of the hearth. I spot welded the ring to the top of the hearth and gently beat the hearth to conform to the ring. I welded both sides for additional mass. Hopefully this will save the hearth from distortion or melting. See that hearth heat damage in post 315. Use green box in lower right of page and type 315, hit enter, bingo, you’re there. To get back, go to green box and click bottom to get to the last post or enter another post number. Resist using the back button, it will bring you somewhere else. How do I know 13 times now? If that happens, hit your mouse forward button and go to the green box again.
Pepe
I just noticed what appears to be a vertical crack in the weld seam on the upper part of the hearth. The hearth is upside down in pic since I had just tapped the ring down to the edge. I’ll check it out in the morning. Never stop inspecting!
Update- The weld is fine.
The ring forced a pretty good circle out of the edge.
The fit is very good. There is still enough room to add sand as an insulating material between the hearth and the burner shell. It’s an optical illusion that there appears to be no gap at the top of the pic. Also note the gradation of color from top (black tarry) down to the tan (pyrolysis zone) ring 4" or so above the nozzles. I like the temperature driven zone division example.
