Thanks for the input. What size ball valve did you use? My carb opening is 1 3/16". I’m thinking of using a 1" valve, any thoughts on that.
Hey Guys,
I have a question on the carb on my generator. It looks like the choke is hooked up to some kind of vacuum device. The choke lever slips into a hole in this mechanism, the black plastic thing on top of the carb in the first pic. Seems like such a simple thing to do. Put pin in hole, bolt carb in place. Well, I put it back together and I’ll be double darned if I can get the choke to operate with the pull lever. worked fine before I took the carb off! Yeah, made in Ching Chang Wazoo, China!@#%&*&%$##.
Can I just plug the vac line and operate the choke manually? The governor mechanism is completely independent from the choke mechanism.
No manual, but I’m looking for on on line. Anyone ever seen anything like this???
Pepe
Just found a manual. In a nut shell it says, check oil and gas, pull cord…good luck!!!
I generally try to stay as close to the carb opening size as possible. The M only had a 1" carb.
I would make a manual choke out of it for gasoline and make sure it stays open fore woodgas.
Thanks, Chris, and I’d like to add this is a FREE download of a complete set of plans. Just what some of you are looking for, lol.
Pepe
They are demanding my credit card. As much as I would like this, I don’t give out that information just for shits and giggles. TomC
You must’ve hit the wrong thing. Go to the link, there’s a blue “Download PDF” button. It’s free.
Thanks — I will go back and try again. TomC
Hi Folks,
I ran across this charcoal gasifier vid today and it’s very visually descriptive of the design. A push motor design, very interesting.
Hey Pepe, what container did you use to make your hopper out of?? I like that shape and is it SS?? Herb
Hi Herb,
The hopper was a 24" d pressure tank whose bladder blew, compliments of my neighbor of 40+ yrs. It’s metal and thin, maybe 1/16". There’s a heavy duty waterproof liner so there’s no rust inside. I love my Dewalt tools. They have great metal cutting blades also. Thank God for mig welders.
PS: I just remembered I have pics of it starting with comment 140 here dated Jan 22, 2014.
Hi, Pepe!
13. of December 2016, Lucia Day
Have you done self-scraping grates? Manually or motorpowered?
I am looking for inspiration for a “full diameter” (like in Imberts)
which can scrape itself during use. So far Chris has made an animation
of a type, where two sets of grate bars scrape the slots of the other set.
In an Imbert type, the speculation is, that the periphery should be left
alone, to avoid consuming the hearth-side insulating char.
Even if it is partly restored by side-blowing “new” char.
TerryL is about to test it out… with less than full diameter.
Grateful for ideas!
- 0f December 2016
Can you pleace put an answere, copy or link to my page?
Hi Max,
No, I have never had a grate scraper. I have a manual grate shaker handle that I operate from the outside at the very end of the grate basket support that exits the bottom of the unit. I also have an electric motor with an offset weight on the outside of the hopper that shakes the hopper and the grate somewhat. I’ll eventually get a little more automated with a timer to activate the shaker motor.
I had to remove the electric motor vibrator when I installed my new much wider monorator hopper. So far the slope of the inner hopper approx 45* hasn’t been a problem, although if I build another, it will be a steeper slope probably nearer 60*. If not and I have a fuel feed problem, I’ll remount the vibrator motor. I didn’t do diddly squat this year on the gasifier, darn!
Pepe
I also posted this on Max’s sit. Haven’t figured out the link thing yet, a little help on this please Chris, when you get a chance. Thanks.
Hi Pepe, it looks to me, the choke linkage wire is possibly assembled the wrong side of actuating metal tang. In this picture, I circled the linkage wire, linkage wire that might be on the wrong side of the vacuum actuated metal tang. Maybe you can disassemble and reassemble where the linkage wire would generally push against the backside of the metal tang. Hope that makes sense.
I’m guessing that when the engine is starting/vacuum becomes present/vacuum actuator will move the metal tang toward the engine block, independently of the manual choke (probably in that direction, I don’t know for sure) allowing the choke to open & close with vacuum actuation rather than the manual activation, you should still be able to manually choke, if the linkage wire is on the other side of the metal tang. I think the linkage wire might be on the wrong side of the metal tang, and therefore won’t allow the choke to operate properly…
Thanks for the slip roller .pdf & the 1941 nos gasifier video.
oliver
Thanks, Pepe!
15. of December 2016
Stationary applications gives freedom to include a “lot” of convenient
flanges giving easy access everywhere!
In mobile, it is hard to beat the one-flange Imbert style. It also
forces to have all “reachers” from outside inward discontinued
just inside the outer shell, to enable the outpull of the inards.
A scraping-sieving grate works discreetly silent and does very
little packing.
Usually it is needed less than at every tanking.
Hi Oliver,
Thanks for the explanation. Darned if I could figure it out, but now I at least have a direction to look and it sounds like a reasonable answer. My before pics weren’t much help. I too thought something was jamming, but what. I knew something was wrong when I couldn’t activate the choke manually. I finally found a service manual on line, now I need to find $35 I’m collecting parts for the slip roller, can’t wait to start “something” this winter.
Pepe
Hey Everyone,
Here’s an updated version of the Jim Mason 7 part I posted on Wood gas boiler in General Discussion. This newer version has 3 more parts that are a general discussion of fitting engines to research. Touches on gasifier diesel app. It’s something you have to really have to pay attention to. What is the value of voids in the process? Where is the combustion zone? Where do you think pyrolosis occurs? The answers come out. I had to go back every once in a while to clarify something. A lot of "huhs’. All really good info. Gasification starts in Part 4 @ 1:50 and he really goes in depth.
Pepe