Hello Peter ,
I would be careful with that wood . Looks like there could be the some speeding tickets lurking in there !!
Hi Wayne,
In processing the wood, is there any difference between clean cut such as a saw or the splintering effect of a chunker? Talking about processing trees mostly.
Hello Peter,
I think if wood is run through the chunker it will increase the surface area per block . also if you are chunking green wood it will squeeze some of the water out as it is being chunked . Sometimes the water will hit me in the face . The chunks will usually separate some and have feathered edges, this help to dry quicker.
I think to have the same effect sawed blocks would need to be just a little smaller compared to chunked blocks with the extra surface .
The pile you show really looks good and should put you down the road.
Wayne, thanks for the input on the wood pile.
This is what I came up with for an air intake system. Hoping this works good for WG start ups.
Howdy Peter,
Looks real nice, it do!
Should get ya doing doughnuts in the parking lot anyway.
Question… What are ya doing for a pressure relief?
TerryL
Hello PeterC
Very nice workmanship.
Do you have a woodgas supply control valve down below?
Regards
Steve Unruh
Terry, still thinking about a pressure relief system.
Steve, I do not have any valves down below. The wood gas is controlled by the 3.500 throttle body beside the carburetor. Do I need additional valving for supply control ?
Peter C
Peter, are you saying that the throttle body shuts the gas off from the gasifier after the two air inlets? I guess that would work if all the butterflies seal tight but it seems backwards to me.
Really nice looking work Peter, well done !!!
Thanks Nathan
Don, The 3.500 throttle body is connected to my foot pedal. Allows WG / air mix to enter the engine.
Hello PeterC
All of the systems I’ve set up and used did have separate fuelgas control capabilty. These so far have all been down through the exisiting carburetor or purpose built vernturi-free mixers.
Your current set-up may work just fine nice once you are up and actual engine started and running.
Cranking to start will be one of the problem areas without a fuel gas control valve to be able to cut down the gasifier pressureized gas flow. It will want fuel flood and be too rich.
After shut down a still hot gasifier does overpressurize and fuel flow will be forced through flooding your air valves from the insides out. This will build up soots there inaddition to the normal at the 2 1/2 mixed throttle valve.
Fuel Injection systems with actual hot wire air flow sensors need to be protected from this forced trough at shut down fuel gas contamination. Thats not a problem with your isolated carbureted system.
So I do not know how not having a fuel gas valve will affect you accross the full operating range on your below the carburetor set-up. Outside my range of direct expereince.
I’d suggest you at least put a big manual ball fuelgas shut off valve back at the rear untill you do find out.
Regards
Steve Unruh
Hi Steve,
Interesting point, we were just playing with this on the hangout last night. I had the gasifier warmed up and we were trying various startup settings. With the gasifier wide open and the air valves flooded I was able to crank up just fine - but only with the air filter removed. It seems that the slight drag from the air filter makes the motor pull from the woodgas instead, flooding it. This is more or less what you’re saying.
I then tried closing down the gasifier without much luck - it fired but immediately stalled. I think with the gasifier closed down, there’s a good mixture for cranking but there’s not enough gas to support actually running.
I think the best startup results are going to be a dedicated airtight valve with no filter, that can be closed off while actually running. This in addition to the normal filtered air to mix with gas for normal running.
As far as the woodgas backing up into the air filters, that is a problem because it will eventually soot the inside of the filters, and they will clog prematurely. Peter should be OK because his valves are air tight, and he can close them off during shutdown.
Steve,
I am trying to visualize the problem you speak of. Wayne’s systems can slow gas flow but not seal it off. ( I can seal off 98% with my throttle bodies) The only difference that I can see is that I am mixing the gas down stream & not incorporating a large mixing box. I have installed a small manual relief valve on the hay filter for pressure relief during shut down if needed. Maybe you could explain the specific problem.
Peter
Hi PeterC
Read ChrisKY’s reply above for cranking to start mixtures.
You are so close now man just get it operating and let it teach you. We’ve all had to learn that change any one thing leads to a whole range of opened up posibilities. Some Good.
Do not be put off now by any over-the-shoulder advising. I was just asking for what I cound not find in your pictures.
Wished I would have just kept my mouth shut. Nothing is going to happen that you cannot figure you way out of.
(Ah, be sure you have a couple extra power valves for that Holley)
It’s like you shearing wood fuel on a lathe. I could guarantee to you that you had enough horsepower based on MY expereinces. But only you could work out how to apply it with the best techiques for the best results. Ha! Ha! Fellow DOES need a lot more than a riding lawnmower hydro trans to apply the power. But you DO not need a screeming V-8 engine for the power supply unless you are simultaneously spiral multipass shaving whole logs!
Regards
Steve Unruh
Steve,
No problem with “over the shoulder advising” ----- quite the contrary, I appreciate the time others might take to oversee designs & engineering of a project, feel free to critique.
Yes, the Holley will not like backfires. Whereas I am going to use it for idling & movement in and out of the shop only, I may remove & block the PV. I would rather use a motorcycle or small engine carb. A Mikuni or SU in horizontal position would cure my hood clearance problem.
Have WG foot throttle, WG fast idle control, 2 air valve controls & carb choke control complete.
Still working out a throttle control for the carb.
Also installed a “spectacular” supressor
I’ve quietly been getting more and more excited by seeing your work, Peter. I certainly can’t keep up with your manufacturing skills, but if you ever need help with anything, I’d love to lend a hand. I’m still trying to wrap my head around everything in the book and gather parts for a considerably less advanced build of my own.
Keep up the awesome and inspiring work!
Hi Chad,
You are welcome to stop by for a visit. I am sure everything will make more sense now that you joined the premium side.
Peter
Is that a 500 CFM Holley 2 barrel?
Dave
Dave, Yes – that is a 500 Holley. Thinking of switching to a Mikuni.